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(en)The invention relates to a physiologically acceptable composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising (a) at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer comprising at least one moiety which comprises at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions; (b) at least one tackifier; (c) at least one block copolymer; and (d) at least one wax, as well as to methods of using such compositions and kits containing such compositions.
1.ApplicationNumber: US-97283908-A
1.PublishNumber: US-2008171008-A1
2.Date Publish: 20080717
3.Inventor: BUI HY SI
4.Inventor Harmonized: BUI HY SI(US)
5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)The invention relates to a physiologically acceptable composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising (a) at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer comprising at least one moiety which comprises at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions; (b) at least one tackifier; (c) at least one block copolymer; and (d) at least one wax, as well as to methods of using such compositions and kits containing such compositions.
7.Description:
(en)CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIOR APPLICATIONS
This application claims priority to U.S. provisional application 60/884,745 filed Jan. 17, 2007, the entirety of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions, for example, color cosmetic compositions which provide a new texture with improved deposit, good wear and shine upon application to a keratinous substrate, comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer comprising at least one moiety comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group comprising organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, at least one tackifier, at least one block copolymer, and at least one wax.
DISCUSSION OF THE BACKGROUND
U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216, U.S. Pat. No. 6,353,076, WO-A-02/17870 and WO-A-02/17871, disclose non-liquid (semi-solid, soft-solid, solid) deodorant gels or sticks containing polyorganosiloxane containing polymers. Such deodorant sticks and gels, however, are unacceptable for cosmetic applications, particularly for cosmetic applications in which color transfer-resistance is desired.
There remains a need for improved color cosmetic compositions which provide a new texture with improved deposit, good wear and shine upon application to a keratinous substrate.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a care and/or makeup and/or treatment composition for keratinous material such as skin, hair, eyelashes, nails and/or lips, which is able to address or overcome at least one of the aforementioned problems with the prior art compositions and/or provide one of the improved cosmetic properties discussed above.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer chosen from homopolymers and copolymers, at least one tackifier, at least one block copolymer and at least one wax.
The present invention also relates to colored cosmetic compositions comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer, preferably a silicone-polyamide copolymer, at least one coloring agent, at least one tackifier, at least one wax and at least one block copolymer. Such colored cosmetic compositions can be anhydrous lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors) or foundations.
The present invention further relates to colored cosmetic compositions comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer, preferably a silicone-polyamide copolymer, at least one coloring agent, at least one tackifier, at least one block copolymer, at least one wax and water. Such water-containing colored cosmetic compositions can be lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors), foundations or mascaras, and are emulsions or dispersions.
The present invention also relates to methods of treating, caring for and/or making up keratinous material (for example, skin or lips) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material.
The present invention further relates to covering or hiding skin defects associated with keratinous material (for example, skin or lips) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to cover or hide such skin defects.
The present invention also relates to methods of enhancing the appearance of keratinous material (for example, skin or lips) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material.
The present invention further relates to compositions having improved cosmetic properties such as, for example, improved wear or shine properties.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
“Film former” or “film forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate.
“Long wear” compositions as used herein, refers to compositions where color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. Long wear properties may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to human hair, skin or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to hair, skin or lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
The cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful in personal care compositions intended for topical application to hair.
The composition of the present invention may be in any form, either liquid or non-liquid (semi-solid, soft solid, solid, etc.). For example, it may be a paste, a solid, a gel, or a cream. It may be an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or a solid, rigid or supple gel, including anhydrous gels. The composition can also be in a form chosen from a translucent anhydrous gel and a transparent anhydrous gel. The composition of the invention may, for example, comprise an external or continuous fatty phase. The composition may be anhydrous. The composition can also be a molded composition or cast as a stick or a dish. The composition in one embodiment is a solid such as a molded stick or a poured stick.
Depending on the intended application, such as a stick, hardness of the composition may also be considered. The hardness of a composition may, for example, be expressed in gramforce (gf). The composition of the present invention may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900 gf, and further such as from 20 gf to 600 gf.
This hardness is measured in one of two ways. A first test for hardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into the composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of height 25 mm and diameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20° C. at the center of 5 samples of the composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak observed. The measurement error is ±50 gf.
The second test for hardness is the “cheese wire” method, which involves cutting an 8.1 mm or preferably 12.7 mm in diameter stick composition and measuring its hardness at 20° C. using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co. at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness value from this method is expressed in grams as the shear force required to cut a stick under the above conditions. According to this method, the hardness of compositions according to the present invention which may be in stick form may, for example, range from 30 gf to 300 gf, such as from 30 gf to 250 gf, for a sample of 8.1 mm in diameter stick, and further such as from 30 gf to 200 gf, and also further such as from 30 gf to 120 gf for a sample of 12.7 mm in diameter stick.
The hardness of the composition of the present invention may be such that the compositions are self-supporting and can easily disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on keratin materials. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact strength to the inventive compositions, which may be molded or cast, for example, in stick or dish form.
The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition using at least one of the tests for hardness outlined above based on the application envisaged and the hardness desired. If one obtains an acceptable hardness value, in view of the intended application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the composition falls within preferred embodiments of the invention.
As is evident, the hardness of the composition according to preferred embodiments of the invention may, for example, be such that the composition is advantageously self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on keratin materials. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention may have good impact strength.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition in stick form may have the behavior of a deformable, flexible elastic solid, giving noteworthy elastic softness on application.
As defined herein, stability is tested by placing the composition in a controlled environment chamber for 8 weeks at 25° C. In this test, the physical condition of the sample is inspected as it is placed in the chamber. The sample is then inspected again at 24 hours, 3 days, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks. At each inspection, the sample is examined for abnormalities in the composition such as phase separation if the composition is in the form of an emulsion, bending or leaning if the composition is in stick form, melting, or syneresis (or sweating). The stability is further tested by repeating the 8-week test at 25° C., 37° C., 45° C. and under freeze-thaw conditions. A composition is considered to lack stability if in any of these tests an abnormality that impedes functioning of the composition is observed. The skilled artisan will readily recognize an abnormality that impedes functioning of a composition based on the intended application.
Polyorganosiloxane containing polymer
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer chosen from homopolymers and copolymers, preferably, with a weight-average molecular mass ranging from about 500 to about 2.5×10 6 or more, comprising at least one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group comprising, preferably, from 1 to about 10,000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are provided. Preferably, the polyorganosiloxane-containing copolymer is a silicone-polyamide copolymer: that is, a copolymer containing both silicone and amide moieties.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers used in the composition of the invention may belong to the following two families:
a) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain; and/or b) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
The polyorganosiloxane containing polymers of the present invention can be liquid or solid at room temperature. Preferably, the polymers are solid. When the polymers are solid, it is preferable that they can be dissolved before or during use in a solvent with hydrogen interaction capable of breaking the hydrogen interactions of the polymers, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower alcohols and especially ethanol, n-propanol or isopropanol. It is also possible to use these hydrogen interaction “breaking” solvents as co-solvents in the compositions of the present invention. These solvents may then be stored in the composition or may be removed by selective evaporation, which is well known to those skilled in the art.
The polymers comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the polymer chain may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding to the formula:
in which:
1) R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 40 hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and possibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms, C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms; 2) the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms; 3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 linear or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, possibly comprising one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or bearing as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 to C 40 alkyl, C 5 to C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl, or 4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
in which
T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and R 5 represents a linear or branched C 1 to C 50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulphonamide groups, which may be linked to another chain of the polymer; 5) the groups G, which may be identical or different, represent divalent groups chosen from:
in which R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 to C 20 alkyl group, on condition that at least 50% of the groups R 6 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the groups G of the polymer are a group other than:
6) n is an integer of at least 1, for example ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer of at least one, ranging from 1 to 35,000, for example, from 1 to 10,000 and 1 to 2,500, from 1 to 700 and from 6 to 200, including all values and subranges there between.
According to the invention, 80% of the groups R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups.
According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:
a) linear C 1 to C 20 and preferably C 1 to C 10 alkylene groups, b) C 30 to C 56 branched alkylene groups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations, c) C 5 -C 6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, e) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 alkylamine groups, g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , T and m are as defined above, and
h) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
The polyorganosiloxanes of the second family may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding to formula (II):
in which
R 1 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I), R 7 represents a group as defined above for R 1 and R 3 , or represents a group of formula —X-G-R 9 in which X and G are as defined above for formula (I) and R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, R 8 represents a group of formula —X-G-R 9 in which X, G and R 9 are as defined above, m 1 is an integer of at least one ranging from 1 to 35,000, for example, from 1 to 10,000 and 1 to 2,500, from 1 to 700, and from 6 to 200, including all values and subranges there between; and m 2 is an integer of at least one ranging from 1 to 35,000, for example, from 1 to 10,000 and 1 to 2,500, from 1 to 700, and from 6 to 200, including all values and subranges there between.
According to the invention, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical moieties, in particular moieties of formula (I) or of formula (II).
According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different moieties of formula (I), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of the groups R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the moieties. The copolymer may also be formed from several moieties of formula (II), in which at least one of the groups R 1 , R 3 , R 7 , R 8 , m 1 and m 2 is different in at least one of the moieties.
It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one moiety of formula (I) and at least one moiety of formula (II), the moieties of formula (I) and the moieties of formula (II) possibly being identical to or different from each other.
According to preferred embodiments, it is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based moiety comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea and thiourea groups, and combinations thereof.
These copolymers may be block copolymers or grafted copolymers.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formulae —C(O)NH— and —HN—C(O)—.
In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula (III) or (IV):
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y, m and n are as defined above.
Such a moiety may be obtained:
either by a condensation reaction between a silicone containing α, ω-carboxylic acid ends and one or more diamines, according to the following reaction scheme:
or by reaction of two molecules of α-unsaturated carboxylic acid with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme:
followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic unsaturations, according to the following scheme:
in which X 1 —(CH 2 ) 2 — corresponds to X defined above and Y, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and m are as defined above;
or by reaction of a silicone containing α,ω-NH 2 ends and a diacid of formula HOOC—Y—COOH according to the following reaction scheme:
In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m is an integer of at least one as defined above, and preferably in the range from 1 to 700, for example, from 15 to 500 and from 15 to 45, including all values and subranges there between; and n is in particular in the range from 1 to 500, for example, from 1 to 100 and from 4 to 25, including all values and subranges there between; X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched or that possibly comprises rings and/or unsaturations, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, including all values and subranges there between, for example, 6 carbon atoms.
In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y can optionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the following elements:
1) 1 to 5 amide, urea or carbamate groups, 2) a C 5 or C 6 cycloalkyl group, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups.
In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one element chosen from the group consisting of:
a hydroxyl group, a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl group, one to three C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, a C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl group.
In these formulae (III) and (IV), Y may also represent:
in which R 5 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R 10 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 .
In formulae (III) and (IV), R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n-C 3 H 7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different moieties of formula (III) or (IV).
Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several moieties of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide corresponding to the formula:
in which X, Y, n and R 1 to R 4 have the meanings given above, m 1 and m 2 , which are different, are as defined above, and preferably are chosen in the range from 1 to 1 000, and p is at least one for example ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200.
In this formula, the moieties may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the moieties may be not only of different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for example containing different groups Y. In this case, the copolymer may correspond to the formula:
in which R 1 to R 4 , X, Y, m 1 , m 2 , n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. As previously discussed, the various moieties may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
In an embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer may also contain a grafted copolymer. Thus, the polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
In this case, the copolymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula:
in which X 1 and X 2 , which may be identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R 11 to R 18 are groups chosen from the same group as R 1 to R 4 , m 1 and m 2 are numbers in the range from 1 to 1,000, and p is an integer of at least one, for example, p can range from 2 to 500.
In formula (VII), it is preferred that:
p is in the range from 1 to 25, including from 1 to 7, including all values and subranges there between, R 11 to R 18 are methyl groups, T corresponds to one of the following formulae:
in which R 19 is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R 1 to R 4 , and R 20 , R 21 and R 22 are, independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more preferably corresponds to the formula:
in particular with R 20 , R 21 and R 22 representing —CH 2 —CH 2 —,
m 1 and m 2 are in the range from 15 to 500, including from 15 to 45 and including all values and subranges there between, X 1 and X 2 represent —(CH 2 ) 10 —, and Y represents —CH 2 —.
These polyamides containing a grafted silicone moiety of formula (VII) may be copolymerized with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers.
The weight percentage of grafted silicone moieties (VII) in the copolymer may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight.
According to the invention, as has been seen previously, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendent or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
According to the invention, the preferred siloxane-based polyamides are:
polyamides of formula (III) in which m is from 15 to 300, for example, 15 to 100, including all values and subranges there between; mixtures of two or more polyamides in which at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range from 15 to 50, including all values and subranges there between and at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range from 30 to 300, including all values and subranges there between; polymers of formula (V) with m 1 chosen in the range from 15 to 50 and m 2 chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the portion corresponding to m 1 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide and the corresponding portion m 2 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide; mixtures of polyamide of formula (III) combining 1) 80% to 99% by weight of a polyamide in which n is equal to 2 to 10 and in particular 3 to 6, and 2) 1% to 20% of a polyamide in which n is in the range from 5 to 500 and in particular from 6 to 100; polyamides corresponding to formula (VI) in which at least one of the groups Y and Y 1 contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polyamides of formula (III) synthesized with at least one portion of an activated diacid (diacid chloride, dianhydride or diester) instead of the diacid; polyamides of formula (III) in which X represents —(CH 2 ) 3 — or —(CH 2 ) 10 ; and polyamides of formula (III) in which the polyamides end with a monofunctional chain chosen from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as, for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.
According to the invention, the end groups of the polymer chain may end with:
a C 1 to C 50 alkyl ester group by introducing a C 1 to C 50 monoalcohol during the synthesis, a C 1 to C 50 alkylamide group by taking as stopping group a monoacid if the silicone is α,ω-diaminated, or a monoamine if the silicone is an α,ω-dicarboxylic acid.
According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-based polyamide, i.e. a copolymer comprising moieties of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide moieties. In this case, the polyamide-silicone moieties may be arranged at the ends of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
Polyamide-based polymers containing silicones may be produced by silylic amidation of polyamides based on fatty acid dimer. This approach involves the reaction of free acid sites existing on a polyamide as end sites, with organosiloxane-monoamines and/or organosiloxane-diamines (amidation reaction), or alternatively with oligosiloxane alcohols or oligosiloxane diols (esterification reaction). The esterification reaction requires the presence of acid catalysts, as is known in the art. It is desirable for the polyamide containing free acid sites, used for the amidation or esterification reaction, to have a relatively high number of acid end groups (for example polyamides with high acid numbers, for example from 15 to 20).
For the amidation of the free acid sites of the hydrocarbon-based polyamides, siloxane diamines with 1 to 300, more particularly 2 to 50 and for example, 2, 6, 9.5, 12, 13.5, 23 or 31 siloxane groups, may be used for the reaction with hydrocarbon-based polyamides based on fatty acid dimers. Siloxane diamines containing 13.5 siloxane groups are preferred, and the best results are obtained with the siloxane diamine containing 13.5 siloxane groups and polyamides containing high numbers of carboxylic acid end groups.
The reactions may be carried out in xylene to extract the water produced from the solution by azeotropic distillation, or at higher temperatures (about 180 to 200° C.) without solvent. Typically, the efficacy of the amidation and the reaction rates decrease when the siloxane diamine is longer, that is to say when the number of siloxane groups is higher. Free amine sites may be blocked after the initial amidation reaction of the diaminosiloxanes by reacting them either with a siloxane acid, or with an organic acid such as benzoic acid.
For the esterification of the free acid sites on the polyamides, this may be performed in boiling xylene with about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reagents, of para-toluenesulphonic acid as catalyst.
These reactions carried out on the carboxylic acid end groups of the polyamide lead to the incorporation of silicone moieties only at the ends of the polymer chain.
It is also possible to prepare a copolymer of polyamide-silicone, using a polyamide containing free amine groups, by amidation reaction with a siloxane containing an acid group.
It is also possible to prepare a gelling agent based on a copolymer between a hydrocarbon-based polyamide and a silicone polyamide, by transamidation of a polyamide having, for example, an ethylene-diamine constituent, with an oligosiloxane-α,ω-diamine, at high temperature (for example 200 to 300° C.), to carry out a transamidation such that the ethylenediamine component of the original polyamide is replaced with the oligosiloxane diamine.
The copolymer of hydrocarbon-based polyamide and of polyamide-silicone may also be a grafted copolymer comprising a hydrocarbon-based polyamide backbone with pendent oligosiloxane groups.
This may be obtained, for example:
by hydrosilylation of unsaturated bonds in polyamides based on fatty acid dimers; by silylation of the amide groups of a polyamide; or by silylation of unsaturated polyamides by means of an oxidation, that is to say by oxidizing the unsaturated groups into alcohols or diols, to form hydroxyl groups that are reacted with siloxane carboxylic acids or siloxane alcohols. The olefinic sites of the unsaturated polyamides may also be epoxidized and the epoxy groups may then be reacted with siloxane amines or siloxane alcohols.
The polyorganosiloxane containing polymers used in the composition of the invention are most preferably polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680 and U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the polyorganoxiloxane containing polymer is a homopolymer or a copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups.
As previously discussed, the polymer may comprise polyorganosiloxane moieties containing two or more urethane and/or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer or on side chains or as pendent groups.
The polymers comprising at least two urethane and/or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding to the following formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents —O— or —NH—, such that:
corresponds to a urethane or urea group.
In this formula (VIII), Y may be a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, optionally substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group. Preferably, a —(CH 2 ) 6 — group is used.
Y may also represent a C 5 to C 12 cycloaliphatic or aromatic group that may be substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4,4-biscyclohexyl radical, the radical derived from isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4′-biphenylenemethane. Generally, it is preferred for Y to represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene radical or a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkylene radical.
Y may also represent a polyurethane or polyurea block corresponding to the condensation of several diisocyanate molecules with one or more molecules of coupling agents of the diol or diamine type. In this case, Y comprises several urethane or urea groups in the alkylene chain.
It may correspond to the formula:
in which B 1 is a group chosen from the groups given above for Y, U is —O— or —NH— and B 2 is chosen from:
linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene groups, which can optionally bear an ionizable group such as a carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid group, or a neutralizable or quaternizable tertiary amine group, C 5 to C 12 cycloalkylene groups, optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups, or alkylene, for example the diol radical: cyclohexanedimethanol, phenylene groups that may optionally bear C 1 to C 3 alkyl substituents, and groups of formula:
in which T is a hydrocarbon-based trivalent radical possibly containing one or more hetero atoms such as oxygen, sulphur and nitrogen and R 5 is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a linear or branched C 1 to C 50 alkyl chain.
T can represent, for example:
with w being an integer ranging from 1 to 10 and R 5 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.
When Y is a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, the —(CH 2 ) 2 — and —(CH 2 ) 6 — groups are preferred.
In the formula given above for Y, d may be an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably from 0 to 3 and more preferably equal to 1 or 2.
Preferably, B 2 is a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, in particular —(CH 2 ) 2 — or —(CH 2 ) 6 — or a group:
with R 5 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.
As previously discussed, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer may be formed from silicone urethane and/or silicone urea moieties of different length and/or constitution, and may be in the form of block or random copolymers.
According to the invention, the silicone may also comprise urethane and/or urea groups no longer in the backbone but as side branches.
In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , m 1 and m 2 have the meanings given above for formula (I),
U represents O or NH, R 23 represents a C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms chosen from O and N, or a phenylene group, and R 24 is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 50 alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups.
The polymers comprising at least one moiety of formula (X) contain siloxane units and urea or urethane groups, and they may be used, for example, as gelling agents in the compositions of the invention.
The siloxane polymers may have a single urea or urethane group by branching or may have branches containing two urea or urethane groups, or alternatively they may contain a mixture of branches containing one urea or urethane group and branches containing two urea or urethane groups.
They may be obtained from branched polysiloxanes, comprising one or two amino groups by branching, by reacting these polysiloxanes with monoisocyanates.
As examples of starting polymers of this type containing amino and diamino branches, mention may be made of the polymers corresponding to the following formulae:
In these formulae, the symbol “/” indicates that the segments may be of different lengths and in a random order, and R represents a linear aliphatic group preferably containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, including 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Such polymers containing branching may be formed by reacting a siloxane polymer, containing at least three amino groups per polymer molecule, with a compound containing only one monofunctional group (for example an acid, an isocyanate or an isothiocyanate) to react this monofunctional group with one of the amino groups and to form groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. The amino groups may be on side chains extending from the main chain of the siloxane polymer, such that the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are formed on these side chains, or alternatively the amino groups may be at the ends of the main chain, such that the groups capable of hydrogen interaction will be end groups of the polymer.
As a procedure for forming a polymer containing siloxane units and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, mention may be made of the reaction of a siloxane diamine and of a diisocyanate in a silicone solvent so as to provide a gel directly. The reaction may be performed in a silicone fluid, the resulting product being dissolved in the silicone fluid, at high temperature, the temperature of the system then being reduced to form the gel.
The polymers that are preferred for incorporation into the compositions according to the present invention are siloxane-urea copolymers that are linear and that contain urea groups as groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the backbone of the polymer.
As an illustration of a polysiloxane ending with four urea groups, mention may be made of the polymer of formula:
in which Ph is a phenyl group and n is a number larger than 0, which includes, at least 1, 2 to 500, 2 to 200, from 1 to 300, in particular from 1 to 100, and all values and subranges there between, for example 50.
This polymer is obtained by reacting the following polysiloxane containing amino groups:
with phenyl isocyanate.
The polymers of formula (VIII) comprising urea or urethane groups in the chain of the silicone polymer may be obtained by reaction between a silicone containing α,ω-NH 2 or —OH end groups, of formula:
in which m, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and X are as defined for formula (I) and a diisocyanate OCN—Y—NCO in which Y has the meaning given in formula (I); and optionally a diol or diamine coupling agent of formula H 2 N—B 2 —NH 2 or HO—B 2 —OH, in which B 2 is as defined in formula (IX).
According to the stoichiometric proportions between the two reagents, diisocyanate and coupling agent, Y may have the formula (IX) with d equal to 0 or d equal to 1 to 5.
As in the case of the polyamide silicones of formula (II) or (III), it is possible to use in the invention polyurethane or polyurea silicones containing moieties of different length and structure, in particular moieties whose lengths differ by the number of silicone units. In this case, the copolymer may correspond, for example, to the formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y and U are as defined for formula (VIII) and m 1 , m 2 , n and p are as defined for formula (V).
Branched polyurethane or polyurea silicones may also be obtained using, instead of the diisocyanate OCN—Y—NCO, a triisocyanate of formula:
A polyurethane or polyurea silicone containing branches comprising an organosiloxane chain with groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions is thus obtained. Such a polymer comprises, for example, a moiety corresponding to the formula:
in which X 1 and X 2 , which are identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R 11 to R 18 are groups chosen from the same group as R 1 to R 4 , m 1 and m 2 are as defined above.
As in the case of the polyamides, this copolymer can also comprise polyurethane silicone moieties without branching.
In another embodiment of the invention, the siloxane-based polyureas and polyurethanes that are preferred are:
polymers of formula (VIII) in which m is from 15 to 300, for example, 15 to 100 and all values and subranges there between; mixtures of two or more polymers in which at least one polymer has a value of m in the range from 15 to 50 and at least one polymer has a value of m in the range from 30 to 300, including all values and subranges there between; polymers of formula (XII) with m 1 chosen in the range from 15 to 50 and m 2 chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the portion corresponding to m 1 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer and the portion corresponding to m 2 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; mixtures of polymer of formula (VIII) combining 1) 80% to 99% by weight of a polymer in which n is equal to 2 to 10 and in particular 3 to 6, and 2) 1% to 20% of a polymer in which n is in the range from 5 to 500 and in particular from 6 to 100, copolymers comprising two moieties of formula (VIII) in which at least one of the groups Y contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polymers of formula (VIII) synthesized with at least one portion of an activated diacid (diacid chloride, dianhydride or diester) instead of the diacid; polymers of formula (VIII) in which X represents —(CH 2 ) 3 — or —(CH 2 ) 10 —; and polymers of formula (VIII) in which the polymers end with a multifunctional chain chosen from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as, for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.
As in the case of the polyamides, copolymers of polyurethane or polyurea silicone and of hydrocarbon-based polyurethane or polyurea may be used in the invention by performing the reaction for synthesizing the polymer in the presence of an α,ω-difunctional block of non-silicone nature, for example a polyester, a polyether or a polyolefin.
As has been seen previously, homopolymers or copolymers of the invention may contain siloxane moieties in the main chain of the polymer and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, either in the main chain of the polymer or at the ends thereof, or on side chains or branches of the main chain. This may correspond to the following five arrangements:
in which the continuous line is the main chain of the siloxane polymer and the squares represent the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions.
In case (1), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at the ends of the main chain.
In case (2), two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at each of the ends of the main chain.
In case (3), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged within the main chain in repeating moieties.
In cases (4) and (5), these are copolymers in which the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged on branches of the main chain of a first series of moieties that are copolymerized with moieties not comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Preferably, the values n, x and y are such that the polymer has the desired properties in terms of an agent for gelling fatty phases, preferably fatty phases based on silicone oil.
As examples of polymers that may be used, mention may be made of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with the disclosure in U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680, the entire disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Further examples of polyorganosiloxane containing polymers are set forth in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,503,632 and 6,569,955, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.
As noted above, the polymers of the present invention can be solid or liquid at room temperature. When solid, the polymers preferably have a softening point from 50 to 130° C. Most preferably, they have a softening point ranging from 65 to 150° C., including from 70° C. to 130° C. This softening point is lower than that of other structuring polymers, which facilitates the use of the polymers that are the subject of the invention, and limits the deteriorations of the liquid fatty phase.
As noted above, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymers of the present invention contain both siloxane units and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions such as amide linkages. The siloxane units can provide compatibility with a silicone fluid, if present, (for example with the cyclomethicones), while the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions and the spacing and selection of the locations of the amide linkages can facilitate gelation and the formation of cosmetic products.
In one embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer of the present invention is present in an amount effective to provide transfer resistant properties, and may also provide at least one of the following properties: pliability, softness, and wearing comfort. In addition, it is preferred that the compositions of the invention exhibit flexibility and/or good adherence on the keratinous substance to which the compositions have been applied. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention when applied to the keratinous substance are substantially non-tacky.
In the composition of the present invention, the polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer(s) are preferably present in an amount of from about 1 to about 20 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8 percent by weight and most preferably from 1 to 5 percent by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Tackifiers
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one tackifier are provided. In accordance with the present invention, a substance is described as a tackifier if, by adding it to a block copolymer, the resulting composition has the properties of a pressure sensitive adhesive. In general, tackifiers can be divided into four different families in terms of their chemistry: hydrocarbon resins, terpenes, amorphous (i.e. non-crystalline) rosins, rosin esters and their derivatives, and pure monomer resins. These tackifiers are characterized by their compatibility with at least one segment of the block copolymer. By the term “compatible”, it is meant, for example, that when the block copolymer and tackifier are mixed, the combination of at least one segment of the block copolymer with the tackifier forms a polymer blend having a single glass transition temperature T g which may be measured by DMA, DSC or neutron light scattering.
The compatibility of the block copolymer and the tackifier may also be defined in terms of solubility parameters. The solubility parameter 6 according to the Hansen solubility space is defined in the article “ Solubility Parameter Values ” by Eric A. Grulke in the work “ Polymer Handbook” 3 rd edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference, by the relationship:
δ=( d D 2 +d P 2 +d H 2 ) 1/2 , in which:
d D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts,
d P characterizes the forces of Debye interactions between permanent dipoles,
d H characterizes the forces of specific interactions (hydrogen bond, acid/base or donor/acceptor type and the like). The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is given in the article by C. M. Hansen: “ The three - dimensional solubility parameters ” J. Paint Technol., 39, 105(1967), the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
The at least one tackifier used in the present invention preferably has a solubility parameter corresponding to δ and the block copolymer preferably has at least one segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ±2, preferably δ±1.7, more preferably δ±1.5, more preferably δ±1.3, more preferably δ±1.0, more preferably δ±0.7, more preferably δ±0.5, and more preferably δ±0.3.
Examples of suitable tackifiers, include, but are not limited to, aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, aromatic modified aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene resins, polycyclopentadiene resins, gum rosins, gum rosin esters, wood rosins, wood rosin esters, tall oil rosins, tall oil rosin esters, polyterpenes, aromatic modified polyterpenes, terpene phenolics, aromatic modified hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene resins, hydrogenated aliphatic resin, hydrogenated aliphatic aromatic resins, hydrogenated terpenes and modified terpenes, hydrogenated rosin acids, hydrogenated rosin esters, polyisoprene, partially or fully hydrogenated polyisoprene, polybutenediene, partially or fully hydrogenated polybutenediene, and the like. As is evidenced by some of the cited examples, the tackifier may be fully or partially hydrogenated. The tackifier may also be non-polar, where “non-polar” means that the tackifier is substantially free of monomers having polar groups. Preferably, polar groups are not present; however, if they are present, they are preferably present in an amount of up to about 5% by weight, preferably up to about 2% by weight, and more preferably up to about 0.5% by weight.
In preferred embodiments, the tackifier may have a softening point (Ring and Ball, as measured by ASTM E-28) of about 80° C. to about 150° C., preferably about 100° C. to about 130° C. In other preferred embodiments, the tackifier may be liquid and have an R and B softening point of between about −70° C. and about 70° C.
According to preferred embodiments, the tackifiers are hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins such as a hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer e.g., styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymers which include R1090, R1100, R7100, S1100, and S5100, all which are commercially available from Eastman Chemical under the trade name Regalite®. In other embodiments, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon-based tackifying resins, for instance the resins sold under the name “Piccotac” and “Hercotac” from Hercules or “Escorez” from Exxon, may also be used. It is also to be understood that mixtures of tackifiers may also be employed without departing from the spirit of the invention.
A particularly preferred tackifier for use in the present invention is a hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin such as, for example, a hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer, commercially available from Eastman under the tradename Regalite® R1100.
In the composition of the present invention, the tackifier(s) are preferably present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 60 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20 percent by weight and most preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween
Block Copolymer
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one block copolymer are provided. The block copolymers of the present invention are characterized by the presence of at least one “hard” segment, and at least one “soft” segment. Aside from their compositional nature, the hard and soft segments of the block copolymers of the present invention are defined in terms of their respective glass transition temperatures, “T g ”. More particularly, the hard segment has a T g of about 50° C. or more, whereas the soft segment has a T g of about 20° C. or less. The glass transition temperature T g for the hard block can range from about 50° C. to about 150° C.; about 60° C. to about 125° C.; about 70° C. to about 120° C.; or about 80° C. to about 110° C. The glass transition temperature T g for the soft segment of the block copolymer can range from about 20° C. to about −150° C.; about 0° C. to about −135° C.; about −10° C. to about −125° C.; and about −25° C. to about −100° C. A more in depth explanation can be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,294,438 and 6,403,070, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
One type of block copolymer which may be employed in the compositions of the present invention is a thermoplastic elastomer. The hard segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise vinyl monomers in varying amounts. Examples of suitable vinyl monomers include, but are not limited to, styrene, methacrylate, acrylate, vinyl ester, vinyl ether, vinyl acetate, and the like.
The soft segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise olefin polymers and/or copolymers which may be saturated, unsaturated, or combinations thereof. Suitable olefin copolymers may include, but are not limited to, ethylene/propylene copolymers, ethylene/butylene copolymers, propylene/butylene copolymers, polybutylene, polyisoprene, polymers of hydrogenated butanes and isoprenes, and mixtures thereof.
Thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include block copolymers e.g., di-block, tri-block, multi-block, radial and star block copolymers, and mixtures and blends thereof. A di-block thermoplastic elastomer is usually defined as an A-B type or a hard segment (A) followed by a soft segment (B) in sequence. A tri-block is usually defined as an A-B-A type copolymer or a ratio of one hard, one soft, and one hard segment. Multi-block or radial block or star block thermoplastic elastomers usually contain any combination of hard and soft segments, provided that the elastomers possess both hard and soft characteristics.
In preferred embodiments, the thermoplastic elastomer of the present invention may be chosen from the class of Kraton™ rubbers (Shell Chemical Company) or from similar thermoplastic elastomers. Kraton™ rubbers are thermoplastic elastomers in which the polymer chains comprise a di-block, tri-block, multi-block or radial or star block configuration or numerous mixtures thereof. The Kraton™ tri-block rubbers have polystyrene (hard) segments on each end of a rubber (soft) segment, while the Kraton™ di-block rubbers have a polystyrene (hard) segment attached to a rubber (soft) segment. The Kraton™ radial or star configuration may be a four-point or other multipoint star made of rubber with a polystyrene segment attached to each end of a rubber segment. The configuration of each of the Kraton™ rubbers forms separate polystyrene and rubber domains.
Each molecule of Kraton™ rubber is said to comprise block segments of styrene monomer units and rubber monomer and/or co-monomer units. The most common structure for the Kraton™ triblock copolymer is the linear A-B-A block type styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene, styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene, or styrene-ethylenebutylene-styrene. The Kraton™ di-block is preferably the AB block type such as styrene-ethylenepropylene, styrene-ethylenebutylene, styrene-butadiene, or styrene-isoprene. The Kraton™ rubber configuration is well known in the art and any block copolymer elastomer with a similar configuration is within the practice of the invention. Other block copolymers are sold under the tradename Septon (which represent elastomers known as SEEPS, sold by Kurary, Co., Ltd) and those sold by Exxon Dow under the tradename Vector™.
Other thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include those block copolymer elastomers comprising a styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer (tri-block), an ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymer (radial or star block) or a mixture or blend of the two. (Some manufacturers refer to block copolymers as hydrogenated block copolymers, e.g. hydrogenated styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer (tri-block)).
The amounts of the block (co)polymer or (co)polymers, as well as their structure (di-block, tri-block, etc.), affect the nature of the thermoplastic elastomer, including its gelled form, which may range from fragile to soft/flexible to firm. For instance, soft gels contain relatively high amounts of soft segments, and firm gels contain relatively high amounts of hard segments. The overall properties of the composition may also be affected by including more than one such block copolymer e.g., including a mixture of copolymers. For example, the presence of tri-block copolymers enhances the integrity of the film formed. The gel may also be transparent, translucent or opaque, depending upon the other cosmetically acceptable ingredients added, as described herein.
It is preferred that the styrene content of the block copolymer be less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 25% by weight, and more preferably less than 20% by weight, based on the weight of the block copolymer. This is because of the tendency of block copolymers having a styrene content of greater than 30% by weight to harden/gel in conventional carrier systems. However, in the event that a block copolymer having a styrene content of greater than 30% by weight is used, it may be necessary to also employ a co-solvent or functional ingredient capable of dissolving a styrene block in an amount effective to control the hardening/gelling of the styrene-containing elastomer in the cosmetic composition.
A particularly preferred block copolymer for use in the present invention is a combination of di-block and tri-block copolymers of styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene, commercially available from Shell Chemical Company under trade name Kraton G1657M. It should be noted, however, that any thermoplastic elastomer of the block copolymer type having at least one soft and at least one hard segment may be used without departing from the spirit of the invention.
The block copolymer will preferably have a solubility parameter, relative to the tackifier component, of δ±2, more preferably δ±1.7, more preferably δ±1.5, more preferably δ±1.3, more preferably δ±1.0, more preferably δ±0.7, more preferably δ±0.5, and more preferably δ±0.3.
In the composition of the present invention, the block copolymer(s) are preferably present in an amount of from about 1 to about 50 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Solvents
According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the hard or soft segment of the block copolymer. Such suitable solvents are typically characterized in terms of their viscosity at room temperature, weight average molecular weight and/or solubility parameter in relation to the at least one hard segment of the block copolymer.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer will preferably have a viscosity, at room temperature, of from about 1 to about 200 cps, more preferably from 1 to 150 cps, more preferably from 1 to 100 cps, more preferably from 2 to 60 cps, and more preferably from 2 to 40 cps.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer used in the present invention will preferably have a solubility parameter corresponding to δ′ and the block copolymer will preferably have at least one hard segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ′±2, more preferably δ′±1.7, more preferably δ′±1.5, more preferably δ′±1.3, more preferably δ′±1.0, more preferably δ′±0.7, more preferably δ′±0.5, and more preferably δ′±0.3.
Examples of nonvolatile solvents capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer which can be used in the invention include, but are not limited to, monoesters, diesters, triesters, mixed aliphatic and/or aromatic, polar oils such as: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids and of glycerol, in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths, these chains being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils can be chosen, for example, from wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, karite butter, sweet almond oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; natural or synthetic esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 , wherein R 1 is a higher fatty acid residue comprising 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R 2 is a branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate and alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; synthetic ethers of formula R 3 COR 4 , wherein R 3 is a C 3 to C 19 alkyl radical, and R 4 is a C 3 to C 20 alkyl radical; fatty alcohols comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol or oleyl alcohol; cyclic hydrocarbons such as (alkyl)cycloalkanes, wherein the alkyl chain is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and comprises 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as cyclohexane or dioctylcyclohexane; aromatic hydrocarbons, for example, alkenes such as benzene, toluene, 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene, dipentene, p-cymene, naphthalene or anthracene, and esters such as isostearyl benzoate; primary, secondary or tertiary amines such as triethanolamine; and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, synthetic esters such as isopropyl myristate are used.
Preferred esters are those having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of about 100 to about 600, preferably from 100 to 500. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate (Mw=270), isopropyl palmitate (Mw=300), isononyl isononanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate (Mw=368), neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate (Mw=356), diisopropyl sebacate (Mw=286).
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer, if present, may typically be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to about 85% by weight; up to 75% by weight; up to 55% by weight; up to 45% by weight; up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 20% by weight; up to 10% by weight; and up to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Solvents capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer which may be used in accordance with preferred embodiments of the present invention are typically characterized in terms of their viscosity at room temperature, weight average molecular weight and/or solubility parameter in relation to the at least one soft segment of the block copolymer.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer will preferably have a viscosity, at room temperature, of from about 1 to about 50 cps, more preferably from 1 to 40 cps, more preferably from 1 to 30 cps, more preferably from 2 to 20 cps, and more preferably from 2 to 10 cps.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer used in the present invention will preferably have a solubility parameter corresponding to δ′ and the block copolymer will preferably have at least one soft segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ′±2, more preferably δ′±1.7, more preferably δ′±1.5, more preferably δ′±1.3, more preferably δ′±1.0, more preferably δ′±0.7, more preferably δ′±0.5, and more preferably δ′±0.3.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer may be selected from volatile solvents and nonvolatile solvents. The expression “volatile solvent” means a solvent that is capable of evaporating at room temperature from a support onto which it has been applied, in other words a solvent which has a measurable vapor pressure at room temperature. See, U.S. Pat. No. 6,656,458, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Representative examples of suitable volatile organic solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils. The expression “hydrocarbon-based oil” means oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include isoparaffins, i.e., branched alkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane). It is also possible to use mixtures of such isoparaffins. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, can also be used.
Representative examples of suitable volatile silicone solvents include, but are not limited to, linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures. Other volatile oils which may be used include KF 96A of 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu having a flash point of 94° C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Suitable nonvolatile solvents which can be used are those having a weight average molecular weight in the range of about 150 to about 450, preferably from 200 to 350. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, polydecene and polybutene.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer, if present, may typically be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to about 85% by weight; up to 75% by weight; up to 55% by weight; up to 45% by weight; up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 20% by weight; up to 10% by weight; and up to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, at least one co-solvent having a high molecular weight and high viscosity may also be used in the invention compositions.
Examples of suitable high viscosity co-solvents which are compatible with the hard segment of the block copolymer include, but are not limited to, capric/caprylic triglyceride (Mw=500), diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate (Mw=644), diisostearyl fumarate (Mw=620), diisostearyl malate (Mw=640), pentaerythrityl tetraoleate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, diethylhexyl sebacate and tricaprylate/tricaprate. The weight average molecular weight of these co-solvents is preferably from about 500 to about 1000, and more preferably from 500 to 800.
Examples of suitable high viscosity co-solvents which are compatible with the soft segment of the block copolymer include, but are not limited to, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene. The weight average molecular weight of these co-solvents is preferably from about 2,500 to about 100,000, and more preferably from 3,000 to 10,000.
These co-solvents, if present, may preferably be employed in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to about 50% by weight; up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 25% by weight; all weights based on the weight of the composition.
Coloring Agents
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one at least one coloring agent are provided. Preferably, such colored compositions are cosmetic compositions such as, for example, lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors), mascaras, nail polish or foundations.
According to this embodiment, the at least one coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, such as liposoluble dyes, nacreous pigments, and pearling agents.
Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, R-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The liposoluble dyes, when present, generally have a concentration ranging up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 6%.
The nacreous pigments which may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The nacreous pigments, if present, be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.1% to 15%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The pigments, which may be used according to the present invention, may be chosen from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
If present, the pigments may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.5% to 40%, and further such as from 2% to 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In the case of certain products, the pigments, including nacreous pigments, may, for example, represent up to 50% by weight of the composition.
Film Forming Agents
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one at least one film forming agent (film former) are provided. Acceptable film forming agents are known in the art and include, but are not limited to, those disclosed in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Non-limiting representative examples of such film forming agents include silicone resins such as, for example, MQ resins (for example, trimethylsiloxysilicates) and MK resins (for example, polymethylsilsesquioxanes), silicone esters such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,045,782, 5,334,737, and 4,725,658, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference, polymers comprising a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendant siloxane groups and pendant fluorochemical groups such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,209,924, 4,693,935, 4,981,903, 4,981,902, and 4,972,037, and WO 01/32737, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference, polymers such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,468,477, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference (a non-limiting example of such polymers is poly(dimethylsiloxane)-g-poly(isobutyl methacrylate), which is commercially available from 3M Company under the tradename VS 70 IBM).
According to preferred embodiments, the film former, when present, is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the film former is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 2% to 15%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. One of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that the film former of the present invention may be commercially available, and may come from suppliers in the form of a dilute solution. The amounts of the film former disclosed herein therefore reflect the weight percent of active material.
According to particularly preferred embodiments, when a film forming agent is present, the combined amount of the amount of polyorganosiloxane containing polymer(s) and the film forming agents is 30-50% by weight of the entire weight of the composition. In particularly preferred embodiments, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer is a silicone-polyamide copolymer and the film forming agent is a silicone resin, in particular trimethylsiloxysilicate.
Thickening Agent
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one thickening agent are provided. Thickening agents are agents which increase the viscosity of the invention compositions. Such thickening agents can, for example, be chosen from waxes, modified clays, rheological polymers and gelling agents.
Non-limiting examples of acceptable gelling agents include, but are not limited to, gelling agents in polymeric form and gelling agents in mineral form such as, for example, elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes such as those sold or made under the names KSG6 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil from Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) or those marketed in the form of preconstituted gels (KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18, KSG21 from Shin-Etsu, Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel, SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric or emulsifying elastomers such as those sold under the names of KSG-210, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-40, KSG 41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 from Shin-Etsu, silicone gums, crystalline silicone compounds, non-silicone polyamides, ends of which bear ester or triamides functions, such as compounds described in patents and patent applications U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657, U.S. Pat. No. 6,268,466, WO 01/95871, WO 00/40216, US 2002/0035237, and EP 1 068 856, the disclosure of which are incorporated herein by reference, polyurethanes.
As modified clays which can be used, mention may be made of hectorites modified with an ammonium chloride of a C 10 to C 22 fatty acid, such as hectorite modified with distearyidimethylammonium chloride, also known as quatermium-18 bentonite, such as the products sold or made under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 sold or made by the company Southern Clay, the modified clays known under the name quaternium-18 benzalkonium bentonites and sold or made under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, the clays modified with stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride, known as steralkonium bentonites, such as the products sold or made under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by the company Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 sold or made by the company Rheox.
Such thickening agents may also include at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 40° C. and further such as greater than 55° C. and which may be up to 200° C. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained. It is this recrystallization in the mixture which is responsible for the reduction in the gloss of the mixture.
For the purposes of the invention, the waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology; they are, for example, of natural origin, for instance beeswax, ozokerite, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil as well as waxes of synthetic origin, for instance polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C., fatty alcohol waxes such as those sold by Baker Petrolite under the Performacol name (Performacol 350, 425 and 550) including C30-C50 alcohols, silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes and/or poly(di)methyl-siloxane esters that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C.
According to the invention, the melting point values correspond to the melting peak measured by the “Differential Scanning Calorimetry” method with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C./min.
The compositions of the present invention may also further comprise liposoluble or dispersible rheological polymers such as, for example, polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, poly(meth)acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 8 alkyl radical, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone polymers that are compatible with the fatty phase, as well as vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, copolymers of a C 2 to C 30 , such as C 3 to C 22 alkene, and combinations thereof, can be used. As examples of VP copolymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
Not only for the staying power properties but also for the feel and consistency properties of the film, the PVP/hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of from 7,000 to 7,500 or alternatively the PVP/eicosene copolymer having an average molecular weight of from 8,000 to 9,000 can be used.
Preferably, the thickening agent(s), if present, represent from about 1% to about 50% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 5% to about 40% of the total weight of the composition, and most preferably from about 7% to about 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are anhydrous. By “anhydrous,” it is meant that the composition contains substantially no water (that is, less than about 0.5% by weight of the composition of water).
According to other preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise water. In this embodiment, water is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.6 to about 70%, preferably from about 3.0 to 60%, and more preferably from about 5 to about 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, such water-containing cosmetic compositions are lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors), foundations or mascaras, and are emulsions or dispersions.
According to other preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.1% silicone oils). In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.1% non-silicone oils). In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-volatile oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.1% non-volatile oils).
Additional Additives
The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration. For example, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), volatile alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol and 3-methyl-1-butanol, antioxidants, essential oils, sunscreens, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants and mixtures thereof can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Further examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference in this application. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 th ed. 2002).
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion from 0% to 99% (such as from 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1% to 50% (if present), including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods of treating, caring for and/or making up keratinous material such as skin, lips, hair and mucous membranes by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material are provided. Preferably, “making up” the keratin material includes applying at least one coloring agent to the keratin material in an amount sufficient to provide color to the keratin material.
According to other preferred embodiments, methods of covering or hiding defects associated with keratinous material such as imperfections or discolorations by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to cover or hide such defects are provided.
According to yet other preferred embodiments, methods of enhancing the appearance of keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material are provided.
In accordance with the three preceding preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer, preferably a polysilicone-polyamide copolymer, at least one tackifier and at least one block copolymer are applied topically to the desired area of the skin in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material, to cover or hide defects associated with keratinous material, skin imperfections or discolorations, or to enhance the appearance of keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with clothing or other objects (for example, a glass or a topcoat). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 2 minutes or less, more preferably for about 1 minute or less. The composition is preferably applied to the desired area that is dry or has been dried prior to application, or to which a basecoat has been previously applied. Most preferably, the composition further comprises at least one coloring agent, at least one film forming agent and/or at least one volatile oil.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, compositions having improved cosmetic properties such as, for example, improved long wear, transfer resistance or waterproof properties are provided. The improved properties may also be chosen from improved flexibility, wearability, drying time or retention as well as reduced tackiness or migration over time.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
EXAMPLES 1-3
Lipsticks
Exam-
Exam-
PHASE
Trade Name
ple 1
Example 2
ple 3
A
Kraton polymer G1657 M
5.00
4.00
4.00
Polyisobutene
20.83
16.69
16.69
B
Regalite R1100
10.00
8.00
8.00
Silicone Polyamide Copolymer
3.00
2.50
2.50
DC 2-8179
Carbinol 5562
0.00
0.00
5.14
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
15.82
15.32
15.32
Softisan 649
6.00
5.00
5.00
DC556
0.00
6.00
6.00
DC555
12.00
10.00
10.00
Puresyn 6
0.00
5.14
0.00
Puresyne 150
5.00
5.00
5.00
C
Titanium dioxide
0.90
0.90
0.90
D&C Red n07
1.15
1.15
1.15
Black iron oxide
0.25
0.25
0.25
Red/Brown Iron Oxide
1.55
1.55
1.55
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
5.00
5.00
5.00
D
Polyethylene wax 400
4.50
4.50
4.50
Polyethylene wax 500
5.50
5.50
5.50
E
Mica
3.50
3.50
3.50
TOTAL
100.00
100.00
100.00
These examples were prepared as follows:
The oil portion of phase A was pre-heated to 100° C. for 10 minutes, with medium mixing, using a propeller mixer. KRATON G1675 M was added to the oil of phase A at 100° C., and was mixed at high speed for 30 minutes until KRATON was totally dissolved into phase A. Then, Regalite R1100 was slowly added with medium mixing until the solution became homogeneous. Next, the Silicone Polyamide copolymer DC 2-8179 was added and mixed until the solution became homogeneous. The remaining oils of the phase B were then added, and mixed at low speed.
In a separate beaker Phase C ingredients were mixed, by hand, until the pigments were totally wet with oil to form a pigment mixture. The pigment mixture was then transferred to a three-roll mill and milled until the colors became homogeneous to form a milled pigment mixture. The milled pigment mixture was then transferred into a beaker containing phase A and B and mixed, at average speed, for approximately 5 minutes.
Phases D and E were then slowly added into the beaker and mixed for 10 minutes at high speed at 100° C. Mixing speed was then reduced and the resulting fluid transferred into the mold at 95° C.-90° C.
The samples contained in the mold were then cooled to 0° C.-2° C. in the refrigerator for 30′, then they were taken out of the mold and put in the packages.
These compositions exhibited improved deposit and texture.properties.
Comparative example 4 and inventive examples 5 and 6
Comparative
PHASE
Trade Name
EX. 4
EX. 5
EX. 6
A
Kraton Polymer G1657 M
2.00
2.00
2.00
Polyisobutene
15.00
15.00
15.00
B
Regalite R1100
8.00
8.00
14.00
Silicone Polyamide
0.00
7.50
5.00
Copolymer DC 2-8179
Polyisobutene
10.56
3.06
0.00
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
15.00
15.00
14.56
Glycerin trioctanoate
10.00
10.00
10.00
Softisan 649
5.00
5.00
5.00
Puresyn 150
5.00
5.00
5.00
C
Titanium dioxide
2.21
2.21
2.21
(plum
D&C Red n07
0.78
0.78
0.78
wine)
Black iron oxide
0.47
0.47
0.47
Red/Brown Iron Oxide
2.11
2.11
2.11
Blue#1
0.11
0.11
0.11
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
8.51
8.51
8.51
D
Hydrogenated Coco-
2.00
2.00
1.00
Glycerides
Synthetic Beeswax
1.00
1.00
1.00
Polyethylene Wax 400
4.50
4.50
4.75
Polyethylene Wax 500
5.75
5.75
6.50
E
Mica
2.00
2.00
2.00
TOTAL
100.00
100.00
100.00
Invention Examples 5 and 6 were determined to have better deposit and nicer texture than Comparative Example 4.
1.PublishNumber: US-2008171008-A1
2.Date Publish: 20080717
3.Inventor: BUI HY SI
4.Inventor Harmonized: BUI HY SI(US)
5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)The invention relates to a physiologically acceptable composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising (a) at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer comprising at least one moiety which comprises at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions; (b) at least one tackifier; (c) at least one block copolymer; and (d) at least one wax, as well as to methods of using such compositions and kits containing such compositions.
7.Description:
(en)CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIOR APPLICATIONS
This application claims priority to U.S. provisional application 60/884,745 filed Jan. 17, 2007, the entirety of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions, for example, color cosmetic compositions which provide a new texture with improved deposit, good wear and shine upon application to a keratinous substrate, comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer comprising at least one moiety comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group comprising organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, at least one tackifier, at least one block copolymer, and at least one wax.
DISCUSSION OF THE BACKGROUND
U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216, U.S. Pat. No. 6,353,076, WO-A-02/17870 and WO-A-02/17871, disclose non-liquid (semi-solid, soft-solid, solid) deodorant gels or sticks containing polyorganosiloxane containing polymers. Such deodorant sticks and gels, however, are unacceptable for cosmetic applications, particularly for cosmetic applications in which color transfer-resistance is desired.
There remains a need for improved color cosmetic compositions which provide a new texture with improved deposit, good wear and shine upon application to a keratinous substrate.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a care and/or makeup and/or treatment composition for keratinous material such as skin, hair, eyelashes, nails and/or lips, which is able to address or overcome at least one of the aforementioned problems with the prior art compositions and/or provide one of the improved cosmetic properties discussed above.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer chosen from homopolymers and copolymers, at least one tackifier, at least one block copolymer and at least one wax.
The present invention also relates to colored cosmetic compositions comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer, preferably a silicone-polyamide copolymer, at least one coloring agent, at least one tackifier, at least one wax and at least one block copolymer. Such colored cosmetic compositions can be anhydrous lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors) or foundations.
The present invention further relates to colored cosmetic compositions comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer, preferably a silicone-polyamide copolymer, at least one coloring agent, at least one tackifier, at least one block copolymer, at least one wax and water. Such water-containing colored cosmetic compositions can be lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors), foundations or mascaras, and are emulsions or dispersions.
The present invention also relates to methods of treating, caring for and/or making up keratinous material (for example, skin or lips) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material.
The present invention further relates to covering or hiding skin defects associated with keratinous material (for example, skin or lips) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to cover or hide such skin defects.
The present invention also relates to methods of enhancing the appearance of keratinous material (for example, skin or lips) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material.
The present invention further relates to compositions having improved cosmetic properties such as, for example, improved wear or shine properties.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
“Film former” or “film forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate.
“Long wear” compositions as used herein, refers to compositions where color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. Long wear properties may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to human hair, skin or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to hair, skin or lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
The cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful in personal care compositions intended for topical application to hair.
The composition of the present invention may be in any form, either liquid or non-liquid (semi-solid, soft solid, solid, etc.). For example, it may be a paste, a solid, a gel, or a cream. It may be an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or a solid, rigid or supple gel, including anhydrous gels. The composition can also be in a form chosen from a translucent anhydrous gel and a transparent anhydrous gel. The composition of the invention may, for example, comprise an external or continuous fatty phase. The composition may be anhydrous. The composition can also be a molded composition or cast as a stick or a dish. The composition in one embodiment is a solid such as a molded stick or a poured stick.
Depending on the intended application, such as a stick, hardness of the composition may also be considered. The hardness of a composition may, for example, be expressed in gramforce (gf). The composition of the present invention may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900 gf, and further such as from 20 gf to 600 gf.
This hardness is measured in one of two ways. A first test for hardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into the composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of height 25 mm and diameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20° C. at the center of 5 samples of the composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak observed. The measurement error is ±50 gf.
The second test for hardness is the “cheese wire” method, which involves cutting an 8.1 mm or preferably 12.7 mm in diameter stick composition and measuring its hardness at 20° C. using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co. at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness value from this method is expressed in grams as the shear force required to cut a stick under the above conditions. According to this method, the hardness of compositions according to the present invention which may be in stick form may, for example, range from 30 gf to 300 gf, such as from 30 gf to 250 gf, for a sample of 8.1 mm in diameter stick, and further such as from 30 gf to 200 gf, and also further such as from 30 gf to 120 gf for a sample of 12.7 mm in diameter stick.
The hardness of the composition of the present invention may be such that the compositions are self-supporting and can easily disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on keratin materials. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact strength to the inventive compositions, which may be molded or cast, for example, in stick or dish form.
The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition using at least one of the tests for hardness outlined above based on the application envisaged and the hardness desired. If one obtains an acceptable hardness value, in view of the intended application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the composition falls within preferred embodiments of the invention.
As is evident, the hardness of the composition according to preferred embodiments of the invention may, for example, be such that the composition is advantageously self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on keratin materials. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention may have good impact strength.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition in stick form may have the behavior of a deformable, flexible elastic solid, giving noteworthy elastic softness on application.
As defined herein, stability is tested by placing the composition in a controlled environment chamber for 8 weeks at 25° C. In this test, the physical condition of the sample is inspected as it is placed in the chamber. The sample is then inspected again at 24 hours, 3 days, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks. At each inspection, the sample is examined for abnormalities in the composition such as phase separation if the composition is in the form of an emulsion, bending or leaning if the composition is in stick form, melting, or syneresis (or sweating). The stability is further tested by repeating the 8-week test at 25° C., 37° C., 45° C. and under freeze-thaw conditions. A composition is considered to lack stability if in any of these tests an abnormality that impedes functioning of the composition is observed. The skilled artisan will readily recognize an abnormality that impedes functioning of a composition based on the intended application.
Polyorganosiloxane containing polymer
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer chosen from homopolymers and copolymers, preferably, with a weight-average molecular mass ranging from about 500 to about 2.5×10 6 or more, comprising at least one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group comprising, preferably, from 1 to about 10,000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are provided. Preferably, the polyorganosiloxane-containing copolymer is a silicone-polyamide copolymer: that is, a copolymer containing both silicone and amide moieties.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers used in the composition of the invention may belong to the following two families:
a) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain; and/or b) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
The polyorganosiloxane containing polymers of the present invention can be liquid or solid at room temperature. Preferably, the polymers are solid. When the polymers are solid, it is preferable that they can be dissolved before or during use in a solvent with hydrogen interaction capable of breaking the hydrogen interactions of the polymers, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower alcohols and especially ethanol, n-propanol or isopropanol. It is also possible to use these hydrogen interaction “breaking” solvents as co-solvents in the compositions of the present invention. These solvents may then be stored in the composition or may be removed by selective evaporation, which is well known to those skilled in the art.
The polymers comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the polymer chain may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding to the formula:
in which:
1) R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 40 hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and possibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms, C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms; 2) the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms; 3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 linear or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, possibly comprising one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or bearing as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 to C 40 alkyl, C 5 to C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl, or 4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
in which
T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and R 5 represents a linear or branched C 1 to C 50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulphonamide groups, which may be linked to another chain of the polymer; 5) the groups G, which may be identical or different, represent divalent groups chosen from:
in which R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 to C 20 alkyl group, on condition that at least 50% of the groups R 6 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the groups G of the polymer are a group other than:
6) n is an integer of at least 1, for example ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer of at least one, ranging from 1 to 35,000, for example, from 1 to 10,000 and 1 to 2,500, from 1 to 700 and from 6 to 200, including all values and subranges there between.
According to the invention, 80% of the groups R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups.
According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:
a) linear C 1 to C 20 and preferably C 1 to C 10 alkylene groups, b) C 30 to C 56 branched alkylene groups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations, c) C 5 -C 6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, e) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 alkylamine groups, g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , T and m are as defined above, and
h) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
The polyorganosiloxanes of the second family may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding to formula (II):
in which
R 1 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I), R 7 represents a group as defined above for R 1 and R 3 , or represents a group of formula —X-G-R 9 in which X and G are as defined above for formula (I) and R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, R 8 represents a group of formula —X-G-R 9 in which X, G and R 9 are as defined above, m 1 is an integer of at least one ranging from 1 to 35,000, for example, from 1 to 10,000 and 1 to 2,500, from 1 to 700, and from 6 to 200, including all values and subranges there between; and m 2 is an integer of at least one ranging from 1 to 35,000, for example, from 1 to 10,000 and 1 to 2,500, from 1 to 700, and from 6 to 200, including all values and subranges there between.
According to the invention, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical moieties, in particular moieties of formula (I) or of formula (II).
According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different moieties of formula (I), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of the groups R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the moieties. The copolymer may also be formed from several moieties of formula (II), in which at least one of the groups R 1 , R 3 , R 7 , R 8 , m 1 and m 2 is different in at least one of the moieties.
It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one moiety of formula (I) and at least one moiety of formula (II), the moieties of formula (I) and the moieties of formula (II) possibly being identical to or different from each other.
According to preferred embodiments, it is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based moiety comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea and thiourea groups, and combinations thereof.
These copolymers may be block copolymers or grafted copolymers.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formulae —C(O)NH— and —HN—C(O)—.
In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula (III) or (IV):
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y, m and n are as defined above.
Such a moiety may be obtained:
either by a condensation reaction between a silicone containing α, ω-carboxylic acid ends and one or more diamines, according to the following reaction scheme:
or by reaction of two molecules of α-unsaturated carboxylic acid with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme:
followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic unsaturations, according to the following scheme:
in which X 1 —(CH 2 ) 2 — corresponds to X defined above and Y, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and m are as defined above;
or by reaction of a silicone containing α,ω-NH 2 ends and a diacid of formula HOOC—Y—COOH according to the following reaction scheme:
In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m is an integer of at least one as defined above, and preferably in the range from 1 to 700, for example, from 15 to 500 and from 15 to 45, including all values and subranges there between; and n is in particular in the range from 1 to 500, for example, from 1 to 100 and from 4 to 25, including all values and subranges there between; X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched or that possibly comprises rings and/or unsaturations, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, including all values and subranges there between, for example, 6 carbon atoms.
In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y can optionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the following elements:
1) 1 to 5 amide, urea or carbamate groups, 2) a C 5 or C 6 cycloalkyl group, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups.
In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one element chosen from the group consisting of:
a hydroxyl group, a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl group, one to three C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, a C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl group.
In these formulae (III) and (IV), Y may also represent:
in which R 5 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R 10 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 .
In formulae (III) and (IV), R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n-C 3 H 7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different moieties of formula (III) or (IV).
Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several moieties of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide corresponding to the formula:
in which X, Y, n and R 1 to R 4 have the meanings given above, m 1 and m 2 , which are different, are as defined above, and preferably are chosen in the range from 1 to 1 000, and p is at least one for example ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200.
In this formula, the moieties may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the moieties may be not only of different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for example containing different groups Y. In this case, the copolymer may correspond to the formula:
in which R 1 to R 4 , X, Y, m 1 , m 2 , n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. As previously discussed, the various moieties may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
In an embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer may also contain a grafted copolymer. Thus, the polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
In this case, the copolymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula:
in which X 1 and X 2 , which may be identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R 11 to R 18 are groups chosen from the same group as R 1 to R 4 , m 1 and m 2 are numbers in the range from 1 to 1,000, and p is an integer of at least one, for example, p can range from 2 to 500.
In formula (VII), it is preferred that:
p is in the range from 1 to 25, including from 1 to 7, including all values and subranges there between, R 11 to R 18 are methyl groups, T corresponds to one of the following formulae:
in which R 19 is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R 1 to R 4 , and R 20 , R 21 and R 22 are, independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more preferably corresponds to the formula:
in particular with R 20 , R 21 and R 22 representing —CH 2 —CH 2 —,
m 1 and m 2 are in the range from 15 to 500, including from 15 to 45 and including all values and subranges there between, X 1 and X 2 represent —(CH 2 ) 10 —, and Y represents —CH 2 —.
These polyamides containing a grafted silicone moiety of formula (VII) may be copolymerized with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers.
The weight percentage of grafted silicone moieties (VII) in the copolymer may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight.
According to the invention, as has been seen previously, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendent or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
According to the invention, the preferred siloxane-based polyamides are:
polyamides of formula (III) in which m is from 15 to 300, for example, 15 to 100, including all values and subranges there between; mixtures of two or more polyamides in which at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range from 15 to 50, including all values and subranges there between and at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range from 30 to 300, including all values and subranges there between; polymers of formula (V) with m 1 chosen in the range from 15 to 50 and m 2 chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the portion corresponding to m 1 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide and the corresponding portion m 2 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide; mixtures of polyamide of formula (III) combining 1) 80% to 99% by weight of a polyamide in which n is equal to 2 to 10 and in particular 3 to 6, and 2) 1% to 20% of a polyamide in which n is in the range from 5 to 500 and in particular from 6 to 100; polyamides corresponding to formula (VI) in which at least one of the groups Y and Y 1 contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polyamides of formula (III) synthesized with at least one portion of an activated diacid (diacid chloride, dianhydride or diester) instead of the diacid; polyamides of formula (III) in which X represents —(CH 2 ) 3 — or —(CH 2 ) 10 ; and polyamides of formula (III) in which the polyamides end with a monofunctional chain chosen from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as, for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.
According to the invention, the end groups of the polymer chain may end with:
a C 1 to C 50 alkyl ester group by introducing a C 1 to C 50 monoalcohol during the synthesis, a C 1 to C 50 alkylamide group by taking as stopping group a monoacid if the silicone is α,ω-diaminated, or a monoamine if the silicone is an α,ω-dicarboxylic acid.
According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-based polyamide, i.e. a copolymer comprising moieties of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide moieties. In this case, the polyamide-silicone moieties may be arranged at the ends of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
Polyamide-based polymers containing silicones may be produced by silylic amidation of polyamides based on fatty acid dimer. This approach involves the reaction of free acid sites existing on a polyamide as end sites, with organosiloxane-monoamines and/or organosiloxane-diamines (amidation reaction), or alternatively with oligosiloxane alcohols or oligosiloxane diols (esterification reaction). The esterification reaction requires the presence of acid catalysts, as is known in the art. It is desirable for the polyamide containing free acid sites, used for the amidation or esterification reaction, to have a relatively high number of acid end groups (for example polyamides with high acid numbers, for example from 15 to 20).
For the amidation of the free acid sites of the hydrocarbon-based polyamides, siloxane diamines with 1 to 300, more particularly 2 to 50 and for example, 2, 6, 9.5, 12, 13.5, 23 or 31 siloxane groups, may be used for the reaction with hydrocarbon-based polyamides based on fatty acid dimers. Siloxane diamines containing 13.5 siloxane groups are preferred, and the best results are obtained with the siloxane diamine containing 13.5 siloxane groups and polyamides containing high numbers of carboxylic acid end groups.
The reactions may be carried out in xylene to extract the water produced from the solution by azeotropic distillation, or at higher temperatures (about 180 to 200° C.) without solvent. Typically, the efficacy of the amidation and the reaction rates decrease when the siloxane diamine is longer, that is to say when the number of siloxane groups is higher. Free amine sites may be blocked after the initial amidation reaction of the diaminosiloxanes by reacting them either with a siloxane acid, or with an organic acid such as benzoic acid.
For the esterification of the free acid sites on the polyamides, this may be performed in boiling xylene with about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reagents, of para-toluenesulphonic acid as catalyst.
These reactions carried out on the carboxylic acid end groups of the polyamide lead to the incorporation of silicone moieties only at the ends of the polymer chain.
It is also possible to prepare a copolymer of polyamide-silicone, using a polyamide containing free amine groups, by amidation reaction with a siloxane containing an acid group.
It is also possible to prepare a gelling agent based on a copolymer between a hydrocarbon-based polyamide and a silicone polyamide, by transamidation of a polyamide having, for example, an ethylene-diamine constituent, with an oligosiloxane-α,ω-diamine, at high temperature (for example 200 to 300° C.), to carry out a transamidation such that the ethylenediamine component of the original polyamide is replaced with the oligosiloxane diamine.
The copolymer of hydrocarbon-based polyamide and of polyamide-silicone may also be a grafted copolymer comprising a hydrocarbon-based polyamide backbone with pendent oligosiloxane groups.
This may be obtained, for example:
by hydrosilylation of unsaturated bonds in polyamides based on fatty acid dimers; by silylation of the amide groups of a polyamide; or by silylation of unsaturated polyamides by means of an oxidation, that is to say by oxidizing the unsaturated groups into alcohols or diols, to form hydroxyl groups that are reacted with siloxane carboxylic acids or siloxane alcohols. The olefinic sites of the unsaturated polyamides may also be epoxidized and the epoxy groups may then be reacted with siloxane amines or siloxane alcohols.
The polyorganosiloxane containing polymers used in the composition of the invention are most preferably polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680 and U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the polyorganoxiloxane containing polymer is a homopolymer or a copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups.
As previously discussed, the polymer may comprise polyorganosiloxane moieties containing two or more urethane and/or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer or on side chains or as pendent groups.
The polymers comprising at least two urethane and/or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one moiety corresponding to the following formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents —O— or —NH—, such that:
corresponds to a urethane or urea group.
In this formula (VIII), Y may be a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, optionally substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group. Preferably, a —(CH 2 ) 6 — group is used.
Y may also represent a C 5 to C 12 cycloaliphatic or aromatic group that may be substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4,4-biscyclohexyl radical, the radical derived from isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4′-biphenylenemethane. Generally, it is preferred for Y to represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene radical or a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkylene radical.
Y may also represent a polyurethane or polyurea block corresponding to the condensation of several diisocyanate molecules with one or more molecules of coupling agents of the diol or diamine type. In this case, Y comprises several urethane or urea groups in the alkylene chain.
It may correspond to the formula:
in which B 1 is a group chosen from the groups given above for Y, U is —O— or —NH— and B 2 is chosen from:
linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene groups, which can optionally bear an ionizable group such as a carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid group, or a neutralizable or quaternizable tertiary amine group, C 5 to C 12 cycloalkylene groups, optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups, or alkylene, for example the diol radical: cyclohexanedimethanol, phenylene groups that may optionally bear C 1 to C 3 alkyl substituents, and groups of formula:
in which T is a hydrocarbon-based trivalent radical possibly containing one or more hetero atoms such as oxygen, sulphur and nitrogen and R 5 is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a linear or branched C 1 to C 50 alkyl chain.
T can represent, for example:
with w being an integer ranging from 1 to 10 and R 5 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.
When Y is a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, the —(CH 2 ) 2 — and —(CH 2 ) 6 — groups are preferred.
In the formula given above for Y, d may be an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably from 0 to 3 and more preferably equal to 1 or 2.
Preferably, B 2 is a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, in particular —(CH 2 ) 2 — or —(CH 2 ) 6 — or a group:
with R 5 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.
As previously discussed, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer may be formed from silicone urethane and/or silicone urea moieties of different length and/or constitution, and may be in the form of block or random copolymers.
According to the invention, the silicone may also comprise urethane and/or urea groups no longer in the backbone but as side branches.
In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one moiety of formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , m 1 and m 2 have the meanings given above for formula (I),
U represents O or NH, R 23 represents a C 1 to C 40 alkylene group, optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms chosen from O and N, or a phenylene group, and R 24 is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 50 alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups.
The polymers comprising at least one moiety of formula (X) contain siloxane units and urea or urethane groups, and they may be used, for example, as gelling agents in the compositions of the invention.
The siloxane polymers may have a single urea or urethane group by branching or may have branches containing two urea or urethane groups, or alternatively they may contain a mixture of branches containing one urea or urethane group and branches containing two urea or urethane groups.
They may be obtained from branched polysiloxanes, comprising one or two amino groups by branching, by reacting these polysiloxanes with monoisocyanates.
As examples of starting polymers of this type containing amino and diamino branches, mention may be made of the polymers corresponding to the following formulae:
In these formulae, the symbol “/” indicates that the segments may be of different lengths and in a random order, and R represents a linear aliphatic group preferably containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, including 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Such polymers containing branching may be formed by reacting a siloxane polymer, containing at least three amino groups per polymer molecule, with a compound containing only one monofunctional group (for example an acid, an isocyanate or an isothiocyanate) to react this monofunctional group with one of the amino groups and to form groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. The amino groups may be on side chains extending from the main chain of the siloxane polymer, such that the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are formed on these side chains, or alternatively the amino groups may be at the ends of the main chain, such that the groups capable of hydrogen interaction will be end groups of the polymer.
As a procedure for forming a polymer containing siloxane units and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, mention may be made of the reaction of a siloxane diamine and of a diisocyanate in a silicone solvent so as to provide a gel directly. The reaction may be performed in a silicone fluid, the resulting product being dissolved in the silicone fluid, at high temperature, the temperature of the system then being reduced to form the gel.
The polymers that are preferred for incorporation into the compositions according to the present invention are siloxane-urea copolymers that are linear and that contain urea groups as groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the backbone of the polymer.
As an illustration of a polysiloxane ending with four urea groups, mention may be made of the polymer of formula:
in which Ph is a phenyl group and n is a number larger than 0, which includes, at least 1, 2 to 500, 2 to 200, from 1 to 300, in particular from 1 to 100, and all values and subranges there between, for example 50.
This polymer is obtained by reacting the following polysiloxane containing amino groups:
with phenyl isocyanate.
The polymers of formula (VIII) comprising urea or urethane groups in the chain of the silicone polymer may be obtained by reaction between a silicone containing α,ω-NH 2 or —OH end groups, of formula:
in which m, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and X are as defined for formula (I) and a diisocyanate OCN—Y—NCO in which Y has the meaning given in formula (I); and optionally a diol or diamine coupling agent of formula H 2 N—B 2 —NH 2 or HO—B 2 —OH, in which B 2 is as defined in formula (IX).
According to the stoichiometric proportions between the two reagents, diisocyanate and coupling agent, Y may have the formula (IX) with d equal to 0 or d equal to 1 to 5.
As in the case of the polyamide silicones of formula (II) or (III), it is possible to use in the invention polyurethane or polyurea silicones containing moieties of different length and structure, in particular moieties whose lengths differ by the number of silicone units. In this case, the copolymer may correspond, for example, to the formula:
in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y and U are as defined for formula (VIII) and m 1 , m 2 , n and p are as defined for formula (V).
Branched polyurethane or polyurea silicones may also be obtained using, instead of the diisocyanate OCN—Y—NCO, a triisocyanate of formula:
A polyurethane or polyurea silicone containing branches comprising an organosiloxane chain with groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions is thus obtained. Such a polymer comprises, for example, a moiety corresponding to the formula:
in which X 1 and X 2 , which are identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R 11 to R 18 are groups chosen from the same group as R 1 to R 4 , m 1 and m 2 are as defined above.
As in the case of the polyamides, this copolymer can also comprise polyurethane silicone moieties without branching.
In another embodiment of the invention, the siloxane-based polyureas and polyurethanes that are preferred are:
polymers of formula (VIII) in which m is from 15 to 300, for example, 15 to 100 and all values and subranges there between; mixtures of two or more polymers in which at least one polymer has a value of m in the range from 15 to 50 and at least one polymer has a value of m in the range from 30 to 300, including all values and subranges there between; polymers of formula (XII) with m 1 chosen in the range from 15 to 50 and m 2 chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the portion corresponding to m 1 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer and the portion corresponding to m 2 representing 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; mixtures of polymer of formula (VIII) combining 1) 80% to 99% by weight of a polymer in which n is equal to 2 to 10 and in particular 3 to 6, and 2) 1% to 20% of a polymer in which n is in the range from 5 to 500 and in particular from 6 to 100, copolymers comprising two moieties of formula (VIII) in which at least one of the groups Y contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polymers of formula (VIII) synthesized with at least one portion of an activated diacid (diacid chloride, dianhydride or diester) instead of the diacid; polymers of formula (VIII) in which X represents —(CH 2 ) 3 — or —(CH 2 ) 10 —; and polymers of formula (VIII) in which the polymers end with a multifunctional chain chosen from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as, for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.
As in the case of the polyamides, copolymers of polyurethane or polyurea silicone and of hydrocarbon-based polyurethane or polyurea may be used in the invention by performing the reaction for synthesizing the polymer in the presence of an α,ω-difunctional block of non-silicone nature, for example a polyester, a polyether or a polyolefin.
As has been seen previously, homopolymers or copolymers of the invention may contain siloxane moieties in the main chain of the polymer and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, either in the main chain of the polymer or at the ends thereof, or on side chains or branches of the main chain. This may correspond to the following five arrangements:
in which the continuous line is the main chain of the siloxane polymer and the squares represent the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions.
In case (1), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at the ends of the main chain.
In case (2), two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at each of the ends of the main chain.
In case (3), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged within the main chain in repeating moieties.
In cases (4) and (5), these are copolymers in which the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged on branches of the main chain of a first series of moieties that are copolymerized with moieties not comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Preferably, the values n, x and y are such that the polymer has the desired properties in terms of an agent for gelling fatty phases, preferably fatty phases based on silicone oil.
As examples of polymers that may be used, mention may be made of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with the disclosure in U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680, the entire disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Further examples of polyorganosiloxane containing polymers are set forth in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,503,632 and 6,569,955, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.
As noted above, the polymers of the present invention can be solid or liquid at room temperature. When solid, the polymers preferably have a softening point from 50 to 130° C. Most preferably, they have a softening point ranging from 65 to 150° C., including from 70° C. to 130° C. This softening point is lower than that of other structuring polymers, which facilitates the use of the polymers that are the subject of the invention, and limits the deteriorations of the liquid fatty phase.
As noted above, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymers of the present invention contain both siloxane units and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions such as amide linkages. The siloxane units can provide compatibility with a silicone fluid, if present, (for example with the cyclomethicones), while the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions and the spacing and selection of the locations of the amide linkages can facilitate gelation and the formation of cosmetic products.
In one embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer of the present invention is present in an amount effective to provide transfer resistant properties, and may also provide at least one of the following properties: pliability, softness, and wearing comfort. In addition, it is preferred that the compositions of the invention exhibit flexibility and/or good adherence on the keratinous substance to which the compositions have been applied. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention when applied to the keratinous substance are substantially non-tacky.
In the composition of the present invention, the polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer(s) are preferably present in an amount of from about 1 to about 20 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8 percent by weight and most preferably from 1 to 5 percent by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Tackifiers
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one tackifier are provided. In accordance with the present invention, a substance is described as a tackifier if, by adding it to a block copolymer, the resulting composition has the properties of a pressure sensitive adhesive. In general, tackifiers can be divided into four different families in terms of their chemistry: hydrocarbon resins, terpenes, amorphous (i.e. non-crystalline) rosins, rosin esters and their derivatives, and pure monomer resins. These tackifiers are characterized by their compatibility with at least one segment of the block copolymer. By the term “compatible”, it is meant, for example, that when the block copolymer and tackifier are mixed, the combination of at least one segment of the block copolymer with the tackifier forms a polymer blend having a single glass transition temperature T g which may be measured by DMA, DSC or neutron light scattering.
The compatibility of the block copolymer and the tackifier may also be defined in terms of solubility parameters. The solubility parameter 6 according to the Hansen solubility space is defined in the article “ Solubility Parameter Values ” by Eric A. Grulke in the work “ Polymer Handbook” 3 rd edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference, by the relationship:
δ=( d D 2 +d P 2 +d H 2 ) 1/2 , in which:
d D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts,
d P characterizes the forces of Debye interactions between permanent dipoles,
d H characterizes the forces of specific interactions (hydrogen bond, acid/base or donor/acceptor type and the like). The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is given in the article by C. M. Hansen: “ The three - dimensional solubility parameters ” J. Paint Technol., 39, 105(1967), the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
The at least one tackifier used in the present invention preferably has a solubility parameter corresponding to δ and the block copolymer preferably has at least one segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ±2, preferably δ±1.7, more preferably δ±1.5, more preferably δ±1.3, more preferably δ±1.0, more preferably δ±0.7, more preferably δ±0.5, and more preferably δ±0.3.
Examples of suitable tackifiers, include, but are not limited to, aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, aromatic modified aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene resins, polycyclopentadiene resins, gum rosins, gum rosin esters, wood rosins, wood rosin esters, tall oil rosins, tall oil rosin esters, polyterpenes, aromatic modified polyterpenes, terpene phenolics, aromatic modified hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene resins, hydrogenated aliphatic resin, hydrogenated aliphatic aromatic resins, hydrogenated terpenes and modified terpenes, hydrogenated rosin acids, hydrogenated rosin esters, polyisoprene, partially or fully hydrogenated polyisoprene, polybutenediene, partially or fully hydrogenated polybutenediene, and the like. As is evidenced by some of the cited examples, the tackifier may be fully or partially hydrogenated. The tackifier may also be non-polar, where “non-polar” means that the tackifier is substantially free of monomers having polar groups. Preferably, polar groups are not present; however, if they are present, they are preferably present in an amount of up to about 5% by weight, preferably up to about 2% by weight, and more preferably up to about 0.5% by weight.
In preferred embodiments, the tackifier may have a softening point (Ring and Ball, as measured by ASTM E-28) of about 80° C. to about 150° C., preferably about 100° C. to about 130° C. In other preferred embodiments, the tackifier may be liquid and have an R and B softening point of between about −70° C. and about 70° C.
According to preferred embodiments, the tackifiers are hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins such as a hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer e.g., styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymers which include R1090, R1100, R7100, S1100, and S5100, all which are commercially available from Eastman Chemical under the trade name Regalite®. In other embodiments, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon-based tackifying resins, for instance the resins sold under the name “Piccotac” and “Hercotac” from Hercules or “Escorez” from Exxon, may also be used. It is also to be understood that mixtures of tackifiers may also be employed without departing from the spirit of the invention.
A particularly preferred tackifier for use in the present invention is a hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin such as, for example, a hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer, commercially available from Eastman under the tradename Regalite® R1100.
In the composition of the present invention, the tackifier(s) are preferably present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 60 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20 percent by weight and most preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween
Block Copolymer
According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one block copolymer are provided. The block copolymers of the present invention are characterized by the presence of at least one “hard” segment, and at least one “soft” segment. Aside from their compositional nature, the hard and soft segments of the block copolymers of the present invention are defined in terms of their respective glass transition temperatures, “T g ”. More particularly, the hard segment has a T g of about 50° C. or more, whereas the soft segment has a T g of about 20° C. or less. The glass transition temperature T g for the hard block can range from about 50° C. to about 150° C.; about 60° C. to about 125° C.; about 70° C. to about 120° C.; or about 80° C. to about 110° C. The glass transition temperature T g for the soft segment of the block copolymer can range from about 20° C. to about −150° C.; about 0° C. to about −135° C.; about −10° C. to about −125° C.; and about −25° C. to about −100° C. A more in depth explanation can be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,294,438 and 6,403,070, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
One type of block copolymer which may be employed in the compositions of the present invention is a thermoplastic elastomer. The hard segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise vinyl monomers in varying amounts. Examples of suitable vinyl monomers include, but are not limited to, styrene, methacrylate, acrylate, vinyl ester, vinyl ether, vinyl acetate, and the like.
The soft segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise olefin polymers and/or copolymers which may be saturated, unsaturated, or combinations thereof. Suitable olefin copolymers may include, but are not limited to, ethylene/propylene copolymers, ethylene/butylene copolymers, propylene/butylene copolymers, polybutylene, polyisoprene, polymers of hydrogenated butanes and isoprenes, and mixtures thereof.
Thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include block copolymers e.g., di-block, tri-block, multi-block, radial and star block copolymers, and mixtures and blends thereof. A di-block thermoplastic elastomer is usually defined as an A-B type or a hard segment (A) followed by a soft segment (B) in sequence. A tri-block is usually defined as an A-B-A type copolymer or a ratio of one hard, one soft, and one hard segment. Multi-block or radial block or star block thermoplastic elastomers usually contain any combination of hard and soft segments, provided that the elastomers possess both hard and soft characteristics.
In preferred embodiments, the thermoplastic elastomer of the present invention may be chosen from the class of Kraton™ rubbers (Shell Chemical Company) or from similar thermoplastic elastomers. Kraton™ rubbers are thermoplastic elastomers in which the polymer chains comprise a di-block, tri-block, multi-block or radial or star block configuration or numerous mixtures thereof. The Kraton™ tri-block rubbers have polystyrene (hard) segments on each end of a rubber (soft) segment, while the Kraton™ di-block rubbers have a polystyrene (hard) segment attached to a rubber (soft) segment. The Kraton™ radial or star configuration may be a four-point or other multipoint star made of rubber with a polystyrene segment attached to each end of a rubber segment. The configuration of each of the Kraton™ rubbers forms separate polystyrene and rubber domains.
Each molecule of Kraton™ rubber is said to comprise block segments of styrene monomer units and rubber monomer and/or co-monomer units. The most common structure for the Kraton™ triblock copolymer is the linear A-B-A block type styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene, styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene, or styrene-ethylenebutylene-styrene. The Kraton™ di-block is preferably the AB block type such as styrene-ethylenepropylene, styrene-ethylenebutylene, styrene-butadiene, or styrene-isoprene. The Kraton™ rubber configuration is well known in the art and any block copolymer elastomer with a similar configuration is within the practice of the invention. Other block copolymers are sold under the tradename Septon (which represent elastomers known as SEEPS, sold by Kurary, Co., Ltd) and those sold by Exxon Dow under the tradename Vector™.
Other thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include those block copolymer elastomers comprising a styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer (tri-block), an ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymer (radial or star block) or a mixture or blend of the two. (Some manufacturers refer to block copolymers as hydrogenated block copolymers, e.g. hydrogenated styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer (tri-block)).
The amounts of the block (co)polymer or (co)polymers, as well as their structure (di-block, tri-block, etc.), affect the nature of the thermoplastic elastomer, including its gelled form, which may range from fragile to soft/flexible to firm. For instance, soft gels contain relatively high amounts of soft segments, and firm gels contain relatively high amounts of hard segments. The overall properties of the composition may also be affected by including more than one such block copolymer e.g., including a mixture of copolymers. For example, the presence of tri-block copolymers enhances the integrity of the film formed. The gel may also be transparent, translucent or opaque, depending upon the other cosmetically acceptable ingredients added, as described herein.
It is preferred that the styrene content of the block copolymer be less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 25% by weight, and more preferably less than 20% by weight, based on the weight of the block copolymer. This is because of the tendency of block copolymers having a styrene content of greater than 30% by weight to harden/gel in conventional carrier systems. However, in the event that a block copolymer having a styrene content of greater than 30% by weight is used, it may be necessary to also employ a co-solvent or functional ingredient capable of dissolving a styrene block in an amount effective to control the hardening/gelling of the styrene-containing elastomer in the cosmetic composition.
A particularly preferred block copolymer for use in the present invention is a combination of di-block and tri-block copolymers of styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene, commercially available from Shell Chemical Company under trade name Kraton G1657M. It should be noted, however, that any thermoplastic elastomer of the block copolymer type having at least one soft and at least one hard segment may be used without departing from the spirit of the invention.
The block copolymer will preferably have a solubility parameter, relative to the tackifier component, of δ±2, more preferably δ±1.7, more preferably δ±1.5, more preferably δ±1.3, more preferably δ±1.0, more preferably δ±0.7, more preferably δ±0.5, and more preferably δ±0.3.
In the composition of the present invention, the block copolymer(s) are preferably present in an amount of from about 1 to about 50 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20 percent by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Solvents
According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the hard or soft segment of the block copolymer. Such suitable solvents are typically characterized in terms of their viscosity at room temperature, weight average molecular weight and/or solubility parameter in relation to the at least one hard segment of the block copolymer.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer will preferably have a viscosity, at room temperature, of from about 1 to about 200 cps, more preferably from 1 to 150 cps, more preferably from 1 to 100 cps, more preferably from 2 to 60 cps, and more preferably from 2 to 40 cps.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer used in the present invention will preferably have a solubility parameter corresponding to δ′ and the block copolymer will preferably have at least one hard segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ′±2, more preferably δ′±1.7, more preferably δ′±1.5, more preferably δ′±1.3, more preferably δ′±1.0, more preferably δ′±0.7, more preferably δ′±0.5, and more preferably δ′±0.3.
Examples of nonvolatile solvents capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer which can be used in the invention include, but are not limited to, monoesters, diesters, triesters, mixed aliphatic and/or aromatic, polar oils such as: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids and of glycerol, in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths, these chains being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils can be chosen, for example, from wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, karite butter, sweet almond oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; natural or synthetic esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 , wherein R 1 is a higher fatty acid residue comprising 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R 2 is a branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate and alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; synthetic ethers of formula R 3 COR 4 , wherein R 3 is a C 3 to C 19 alkyl radical, and R 4 is a C 3 to C 20 alkyl radical; fatty alcohols comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol or oleyl alcohol; cyclic hydrocarbons such as (alkyl)cycloalkanes, wherein the alkyl chain is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and comprises 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as cyclohexane or dioctylcyclohexane; aromatic hydrocarbons, for example, alkenes such as benzene, toluene, 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene, dipentene, p-cymene, naphthalene or anthracene, and esters such as isostearyl benzoate; primary, secondary or tertiary amines such as triethanolamine; and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, synthetic esters such as isopropyl myristate are used.
Preferred esters are those having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of about 100 to about 600, preferably from 100 to 500. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate (Mw=270), isopropyl palmitate (Mw=300), isononyl isononanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate (Mw=368), neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate (Mw=356), diisopropyl sebacate (Mw=286).
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the hard segment of the block copolymer, if present, may typically be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to about 85% by weight; up to 75% by weight; up to 55% by weight; up to 45% by weight; up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 20% by weight; up to 10% by weight; and up to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Solvents capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer which may be used in accordance with preferred embodiments of the present invention are typically characterized in terms of their viscosity at room temperature, weight average molecular weight and/or solubility parameter in relation to the at least one soft segment of the block copolymer.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer will preferably have a viscosity, at room temperature, of from about 1 to about 50 cps, more preferably from 1 to 40 cps, more preferably from 1 to 30 cps, more preferably from 2 to 20 cps, and more preferably from 2 to 10 cps.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer used in the present invention will preferably have a solubility parameter corresponding to δ′ and the block copolymer will preferably have at least one soft segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ′±2, more preferably δ′±1.7, more preferably δ′±1.5, more preferably δ′±1.3, more preferably δ′±1.0, more preferably δ′±0.7, more preferably δ′±0.5, and more preferably δ′±0.3.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer may be selected from volatile solvents and nonvolatile solvents. The expression “volatile solvent” means a solvent that is capable of evaporating at room temperature from a support onto which it has been applied, in other words a solvent which has a measurable vapor pressure at room temperature. See, U.S. Pat. No. 6,656,458, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Representative examples of suitable volatile organic solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils. The expression “hydrocarbon-based oil” means oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include isoparaffins, i.e., branched alkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane). It is also possible to use mixtures of such isoparaffins. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, can also be used.
Representative examples of suitable volatile silicone solvents include, but are not limited to, linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures. Other volatile oils which may be used include KF 96A of 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu having a flash point of 94° C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Suitable nonvolatile solvents which can be used are those having a weight average molecular weight in the range of about 150 to about 450, preferably from 200 to 350. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, polydecene and polybutene.
Solvent(s) capable of solubilizing the soft segment of the block copolymer, if present, may typically be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to about 85% by weight; up to 75% by weight; up to 55% by weight; up to 45% by weight; up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 20% by weight; up to 10% by weight; and up to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, at least one co-solvent having a high molecular weight and high viscosity may also be used in the invention compositions.
Examples of suitable high viscosity co-solvents which are compatible with the hard segment of the block copolymer include, but are not limited to, capric/caprylic triglyceride (Mw=500), diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate (Mw=644), diisostearyl fumarate (Mw=620), diisostearyl malate (Mw=640), pentaerythrityl tetraoleate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, diethylhexyl sebacate and tricaprylate/tricaprate. The weight average molecular weight of these co-solvents is preferably from about 500 to about 1000, and more preferably from 500 to 800.
Examples of suitable high viscosity co-solvents which are compatible with the soft segment of the block copolymer include, but are not limited to, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene. The weight average molecular weight of these co-solvents is preferably from about 2,500 to about 100,000, and more preferably from 3,000 to 10,000.
These co-solvents, if present, may preferably be employed in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to about 50% by weight; up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 25% by weight; all weights based on the weight of the composition.
Coloring Agents
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one at least one coloring agent are provided. Preferably, such colored compositions are cosmetic compositions such as, for example, lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors), mascaras, nail polish or foundations.
According to this embodiment, the at least one coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, such as liposoluble dyes, nacreous pigments, and pearling agents.
Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, R-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The liposoluble dyes, when present, generally have a concentration ranging up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 6%.
The nacreous pigments which may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The nacreous pigments, if present, be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.1% to 15%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The pigments, which may be used according to the present invention, may be chosen from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
If present, the pigments may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.5% to 40%, and further such as from 2% to 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In the case of certain products, the pigments, including nacreous pigments, may, for example, represent up to 50% by weight of the composition.
Film Forming Agents
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one at least one film forming agent (film former) are provided. Acceptable film forming agents are known in the art and include, but are not limited to, those disclosed in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Non-limiting representative examples of such film forming agents include silicone resins such as, for example, MQ resins (for example, trimethylsiloxysilicates) and MK resins (for example, polymethylsilsesquioxanes), silicone esters such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,045,782, 5,334,737, and 4,725,658, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference, polymers comprising a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendant siloxane groups and pendant fluorochemical groups such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,209,924, 4,693,935, 4,981,903, 4,981,902, and 4,972,037, and WO 01/32737, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference, polymers such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,468,477, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference (a non-limiting example of such polymers is poly(dimethylsiloxane)-g-poly(isobutyl methacrylate), which is commercially available from 3M Company under the tradename VS 70 IBM).
According to preferred embodiments, the film former, when present, is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the film former is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 2% to 15%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. One of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that the film former of the present invention may be commercially available, and may come from suppliers in the form of a dilute solution. The amounts of the film former disclosed herein therefore reflect the weight percent of active material.
According to particularly preferred embodiments, when a film forming agent is present, the combined amount of the amount of polyorganosiloxane containing polymer(s) and the film forming agents is 30-50% by weight of the entire weight of the composition. In particularly preferred embodiments, the polyorganosiloxane containing polymer is a silicone-polyamide copolymer and the film forming agent is a silicone resin, in particular trimethylsiloxysilicate.
Thickening Agent
According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, compositions further comprising at least one thickening agent are provided. Thickening agents are agents which increase the viscosity of the invention compositions. Such thickening agents can, for example, be chosen from waxes, modified clays, rheological polymers and gelling agents.
Non-limiting examples of acceptable gelling agents include, but are not limited to, gelling agents in polymeric form and gelling agents in mineral form such as, for example, elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes such as those sold or made under the names KSG6 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil from Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) or those marketed in the form of preconstituted gels (KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18, KSG21 from Shin-Etsu, Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel, SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric or emulsifying elastomers such as those sold under the names of KSG-210, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-40, KSG 41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 from Shin-Etsu, silicone gums, crystalline silicone compounds, non-silicone polyamides, ends of which bear ester or triamides functions, such as compounds described in patents and patent applications U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657, U.S. Pat. No. 6,268,466, WO 01/95871, WO 00/40216, US 2002/0035237, and EP 1 068 856, the disclosure of which are incorporated herein by reference, polyurethanes.
As modified clays which can be used, mention may be made of hectorites modified with an ammonium chloride of a C 10 to C 22 fatty acid, such as hectorite modified with distearyidimethylammonium chloride, also known as quatermium-18 bentonite, such as the products sold or made under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 sold or made by the company Southern Clay, the modified clays known under the name quaternium-18 benzalkonium bentonites and sold or made under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, the clays modified with stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride, known as steralkonium bentonites, such as the products sold or made under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by the company Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 sold or made by the company Rheox.
Such thickening agents may also include at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 40° C. and further such as greater than 55° C. and which may be up to 200° C. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained. It is this recrystallization in the mixture which is responsible for the reduction in the gloss of the mixture.
For the purposes of the invention, the waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology; they are, for example, of natural origin, for instance beeswax, ozokerite, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil as well as waxes of synthetic origin, for instance polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C., fatty alcohol waxes such as those sold by Baker Petrolite under the Performacol name (Performacol 350, 425 and 550) including C30-C50 alcohols, silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes and/or poly(di)methyl-siloxane esters that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C.
According to the invention, the melting point values correspond to the melting peak measured by the “Differential Scanning Calorimetry” method with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C./min.
The compositions of the present invention may also further comprise liposoluble or dispersible rheological polymers such as, for example, polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, poly(meth)acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 8 alkyl radical, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone polymers that are compatible with the fatty phase, as well as vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, copolymers of a C 2 to C 30 , such as C 3 to C 22 alkene, and combinations thereof, can be used. As examples of VP copolymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
Not only for the staying power properties but also for the feel and consistency properties of the film, the PVP/hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of from 7,000 to 7,500 or alternatively the PVP/eicosene copolymer having an average molecular weight of from 8,000 to 9,000 can be used.
Preferably, the thickening agent(s), if present, represent from about 1% to about 50% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 5% to about 40% of the total weight of the composition, and most preferably from about 7% to about 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are anhydrous. By “anhydrous,” it is meant that the composition contains substantially no water (that is, less than about 0.5% by weight of the composition of water).
According to other preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise water. In this embodiment, water is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.6 to about 70%, preferably from about 3.0 to 60%, and more preferably from about 5 to about 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, such water-containing cosmetic compositions are lip compositions (for example, lipstick or liquid lip colors), foundations or mascaras, and are emulsions or dispersions.
According to other preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.1% silicone oils). In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.1% non-silicone oils). In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-volatile oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.1% non-volatile oils).
Additional Additives
The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration. For example, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), volatile alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol and 3-methyl-1-butanol, antioxidants, essential oils, sunscreens, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants and mixtures thereof can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Further examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference in this application. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 th ed. 2002).
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion from 0% to 99% (such as from 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1% to 50% (if present), including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods of treating, caring for and/or making up keratinous material such as skin, lips, hair and mucous membranes by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material are provided. Preferably, “making up” the keratin material includes applying at least one coloring agent to the keratin material in an amount sufficient to provide color to the keratin material.
According to other preferred embodiments, methods of covering or hiding defects associated with keratinous material such as imperfections or discolorations by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to cover or hide such defects are provided.
According to yet other preferred embodiments, methods of enhancing the appearance of keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material are provided.
In accordance with the three preceding preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane containing polymer, preferably a polysilicone-polyamide copolymer, at least one tackifier and at least one block copolymer are applied topically to the desired area of the skin in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratinous material, to cover or hide defects associated with keratinous material, skin imperfections or discolorations, or to enhance the appearance of keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with clothing or other objects (for example, a glass or a topcoat). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 2 minutes or less, more preferably for about 1 minute or less. The composition is preferably applied to the desired area that is dry or has been dried prior to application, or to which a basecoat has been previously applied. Most preferably, the composition further comprises at least one coloring agent, at least one film forming agent and/or at least one volatile oil.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, compositions having improved cosmetic properties such as, for example, improved long wear, transfer resistance or waterproof properties are provided. The improved properties may also be chosen from improved flexibility, wearability, drying time or retention as well as reduced tackiness or migration over time.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
EXAMPLES 1-3
Lipsticks
Exam-
Exam-
PHASE
Trade Name
ple 1
Example 2
ple 3
A
Kraton polymer G1657 M
5.00
4.00
4.00
Polyisobutene
20.83
16.69
16.69
B
Regalite R1100
10.00
8.00
8.00
Silicone Polyamide Copolymer
3.00
2.50
2.50
DC 2-8179
Carbinol 5562
0.00
0.00
5.14
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
15.82
15.32
15.32
Softisan 649
6.00
5.00
5.00
DC556
0.00
6.00
6.00
DC555
12.00
10.00
10.00
Puresyn 6
0.00
5.14
0.00
Puresyne 150
5.00
5.00
5.00
C
Titanium dioxide
0.90
0.90
0.90
D&C Red n07
1.15
1.15
1.15
Black iron oxide
0.25
0.25
0.25
Red/Brown Iron Oxide
1.55
1.55
1.55
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
5.00
5.00
5.00
D
Polyethylene wax 400
4.50
4.50
4.50
Polyethylene wax 500
5.50
5.50
5.50
E
Mica
3.50
3.50
3.50
TOTAL
100.00
100.00
100.00
These examples were prepared as follows:
The oil portion of phase A was pre-heated to 100° C. for 10 minutes, with medium mixing, using a propeller mixer. KRATON G1675 M was added to the oil of phase A at 100° C., and was mixed at high speed for 30 minutes until KRATON was totally dissolved into phase A. Then, Regalite R1100 was slowly added with medium mixing until the solution became homogeneous. Next, the Silicone Polyamide copolymer DC 2-8179 was added and mixed until the solution became homogeneous. The remaining oils of the phase B were then added, and mixed at low speed.
In a separate beaker Phase C ingredients were mixed, by hand, until the pigments were totally wet with oil to form a pigment mixture. The pigment mixture was then transferred to a three-roll mill and milled until the colors became homogeneous to form a milled pigment mixture. The milled pigment mixture was then transferred into a beaker containing phase A and B and mixed, at average speed, for approximately 5 minutes.
Phases D and E were then slowly added into the beaker and mixed for 10 minutes at high speed at 100° C. Mixing speed was then reduced and the resulting fluid transferred into the mold at 95° C.-90° C.
The samples contained in the mold were then cooled to 0° C.-2° C. in the refrigerator for 30′, then they were taken out of the mold and put in the packages.
These compositions exhibited improved deposit and texture.properties.
Comparative example 4 and inventive examples 5 and 6
Comparative
PHASE
Trade Name
EX. 4
EX. 5
EX. 6
A
Kraton Polymer G1657 M
2.00
2.00
2.00
Polyisobutene
15.00
15.00
15.00
B
Regalite R1100
8.00
8.00
14.00
Silicone Polyamide
0.00
7.50
5.00
Copolymer DC 2-8179
Polyisobutene
10.56
3.06
0.00
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
15.00
15.00
14.56
Glycerin trioctanoate
10.00
10.00
10.00
Softisan 649
5.00
5.00
5.00
Puresyn 150
5.00
5.00
5.00
C
Titanium dioxide
2.21
2.21
2.21
(plum
D&C Red n07
0.78
0.78
0.78
wine)
Black iron oxide
0.47
0.47
0.47
Red/Brown Iron Oxide
2.11
2.11
2.11
Blue#1
0.11
0.11
0.11
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
8.51
8.51
8.51
D
Hydrogenated Coco-
2.00
2.00
1.00
Glycerides
Synthetic Beeswax
1.00
1.00
1.00
Polyethylene Wax 400
4.50
4.50
4.75
Polyethylene Wax 500
5.75
5.75
6.50
E
Mica
2.00
2.00
2.00
TOTAL
100.00
100.00
100.00
Invention Examples 5 and 6 were determined to have better deposit and nicer texture than Comparative Example 4.
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