(en)A cosmetic composition containing at least one block copolymer having at least one hard segment and at least one soft segment, at least one tackifier component, at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment, and optionally, at least one colorant, and wherein the at least one hard segment has a T g of about 50° C. or more and the at least one soft segment has a T g value of about 20° C. or less.

1.ApplicationNumber: US-41797406-A
1.PublishNumber: US-2007258924-A1
2.Date Publish: 20071108
3.Inventor: BUI HY S.
LU SHAOXIANG
PRADIER FRANCOIS
MERCADO RAMON

4.Inventor Harmonized: BUI HY S(US)
LU SHAOXIANG(US)
PRADIER FRANCOIS(US)
MERCADO RAMON(US)

5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)A cosmetic composition containing at least one block copolymer having at least one hard segment and at least one soft segment, at least one tackifier component, at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment, and optionally, at least one colorant, and wherein the at least one hard segment has a T g of about 50° C. or more and the at least one soft segment has a T g value of about 20° C. or less.

7.Description:
(en)BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
There have been many developments in connection with improving comfort, wear, shine and/or longevity of cosmetic compositions for the face, eye, lips nails or hair. Commercially available lip treatment compositions such as lip glosses and lipsticks possess a certain level of gloss or shine depending of their composition. Efforts have been made through the use of high refractive index fluids to further enhance the shine or gloss of such products, but the wear of gloss or shine is limited. Moreover, these lip treatment compositions are tacky and uncomfortable to apply due, oftentimes, to the presence of high molecular weight polymers having a high viscosity which are used to maintain the wear of shine/gloss.
While other efforts to improve shine/gloss involve the use of silicone fluids, wear of shine leaves much to be desired. Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a lip treatment composition which is comfortable to apply and wear, and has long lasting shine/gloss.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A first aspect of the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one block copolymer having at least one hard segment and at least one soft segment; (b) at least one tackifier component; (c) at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the at least one soft segment; and (d) optionally, at least one colorant, and wherein the at least one hard segment has a T g value of 50° C. or more and the at least one soft segment has a T g value of 20° C. or less.

A second aspect of the present invention is directed to a method of treating lips by contacting the lips with the above-disclosed cosmetic composition.


DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about”.
The physical and rheological properties of block copolymers can be controlled by using specific types of solvents capable of solubilizing the hard and/or soft block segments. A solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment causes the block copolymer to possess a morphology and rheology different from that obtained using a solvent capable of solubilizing the hard segment. Similarly, the physical properties of a block copolymer solution based on a mixture of solvents capable of solubilizing both hard and soft segments are different from those obtained when using solvents capable of solubilizing only the soft segments or solvents capable of solubilizing only the hard segments.
It has been surprisingly discovered that a lip treatment composition containing: (a) a block copolymer having at least one soft segment and at least one hard segment, (b) a tackifier, and (c) at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the at least one soft segment of the block copolymer, can deliver a comfortable, long lasting shine or gloss when applied onto lips.
Block Copolymers
The block copolymers of the present invention are characterized by the presence of at least one “hard” segment, and at least one “soft” segment. Aside from their compositional nature, the hard and soft segments of the block copolymers of the present invention are defined in terms of their respective glass transition temperatures, “T g ”. More particularly, the hard segment has a T g of 50° C. or more, whereas the soft segment has a T g of 20° C. or less. The glass transition temperature T g for the hard block can range from 50° C. to 150° C.; 60° C. to 125° C.; 70° C. to 120° C.; 80° C. to 110° C. The glass transition temperature T g for the soft segment of the block copolymer can range from 20° C. to −150° C.; 0° C. to −135° C.; −10° C. to −125° C.; −25° C. to −100° C. A more in depth explanation can be found in U.S. Pat. No. 5,294,438 and 6,403,070, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
One type of block copolymer which may be employed by the present invention is a thermoplastic elastomer. The hard segments of the thermoplastic elastomer typically comprise vinyl monomers in varying amounts. Examples of suitable vinyl monomers include, but are not limited to, styrene, methacrylate, acrylate, vinyl ester, vinyl ether, vinyl acetate, and the like.
The soft segments of the thermoplastic elastomer comprise olefin polymers and/or copolymers which may be saturated, unsaturated, or combinations thereof. Suitable olefin copolymers may include, but are not limited to, ethylene/propylene copolymers, ethylene/butylene copolymers, propylene/butylene copolymers, polybutylene, polyisoprene, polymers of hydrogenated butanes and isoprenes, and mixtures thereof.
Thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention are block copolymers e.g., di-block, tri-block, multi-block, radial and star block copolymers, and mixtures and blends thereof. A di-block thermoplastic elastomer is usually defined as an A-B type or a hard segment (A) followed by a soft segment (B) in sequence. A tri-block is usually defined as an A-B-A type copolymer or a ratio of one hard, one soft, and one hard segment. Multi-block or radial block or star block thermoplastic elastomers usually contain any combination of hard and soft segments, provided that the elastomers possess both hard and soft characteristics.
In some embodiments, the thermoplastic elastomer of the present invention may be chosen from the class of Kraton™ rubbers (Shell Chemical Company) or from similar thermoplastic elastomers. Kraton™ rubbers are thermoplastic elastomers in which the polymer chains comprise a di-block, tri-block, multi-block or radial or star block configuration or numerous mixtures thereof. The Kraton™ tri-block rubbers have polystyrene (hard) segments on each end of a rubber (soft) segment, while the Kraton™ di-block rubbers have a polystyrene (hard) segment attached to a rubber (soft) segment. The Kraton™ radial or star configuration may be a four-point or other multipoint star made of rubber with a polystyrene segment attached to each end of a rubber segment. The configuration of each of the Kraton™ rubbers forms separate polystyrene and rubber domains.
Each molecule of Kraton™ rubber is said to comprise block segments of styrene monomer units and rubber monomer and/or co-monomer units. The most common structure for the Kraton™ triblock copolymer is the linear A-B-A block type styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene, styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene, or styrene-ethylenebutylene-styrene. The Kraton™ di-block is preferably the AB block type such as styrene-ethylenepropylene, styrene-ethylenebutylene, styrene-butadiene, or styrene-isoprene. The Kraton™ rubber configuration is well known in the art and any block copolymer elastomer with a similar configuration is within the practice of the invention. Other block copolymers are sold under the tradename Septon (which represent elastomers known as SEEPS, sold by Kurary, Co., Ltd) and those sold by Exxon Dow under the tradename Vector™.
Other thermoplastic elastomers useful in the present invention include those block copolymer elastomers comprising a styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer (tri-block), an ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymer (radial or star block) or a mixture or blend of the two. (Some manufacturers refer to block copolymers as hydrogenated block copolymers, e.g. hydrogenated styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer (tri-block)).
The amounts of the block (co)polymer or (co)polymers, as well as their structure (di-block, tri-block, etc.), affect the nature of the thermoplastic elastomer, including its gelled form, which may range from fragile to soft/flexible to firm. For instance, soft gels contain relatively high amounts of soft segments, and firm gels contain relatively high amounts of hard segments. The overall properties of the composition may also be affected by including more than one such block copolymer e.g., including a mixture of copolymers. For example, the presence of tri-block copolymers enhances the integrity of the film formed. The gel may also be transparent, translucent or opaque, depending upon the other cosmetically acceptable ingredients added, as described herein.
It is preferred that the styrene content of the block copolymer be less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 25% by weight, and more preferably less than 20% by weight, based on the weight of the block copolymer. This is because of the tendency of block copolymers having a styrene content of greater than 30% by weight to harden/gel in conventional carrier systems. However, in the event that a block copolymer having a styrene content of greater than 30% by weight is used, it may be necessary to also employ a co-solvent or functional ingredient capable of dissolving a styrene block in an amount effective to control the hardening/gelling of the styrene-containing elastomer in the cosmetic composition.
A particularly preferred block copolymer for use in the present invention is a combination of di-block and tri-block copolymers of styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene, commercially available from Shell Chemical Company under trade name Kraton G1657M. It should be noted, however, that any thermoplastic elastomer of the block copolymer type having at least one soft and at least one hard segment may be used without departing from the spirit of the invention.
The block copolymer is generally present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from greater than 0% to 50% by weight; greater than 0% to 40% by weight; greater than 0% to 30% by weight; greater than 0% to 20% by weight; greater than 0% to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Tackifiers
A substance is described as a tackifier if, by adding it to a block copolymer, the resulting composition has the properties of a pressure sensitive adhesive. In general, tackifiers can be divided into four different families in terms of their chemistry: hydrocarbon resins, terpenes, amorphous (i.e. non-crystalline) rosins, rosin esters and their derivatives, and pure monomer resins. These tackifiers are characterized by their compatibility with at least one segment of the block copolymer. By the term “compatible”, it is meant that when the block copolymer and tackifier are mixed, the combination of at least one segment of the block copolymer with the tackifier forms a polymer blend having a single glass transition temperature T g which may be measured by DMA, DSC or neutron light scattering.
The compatibility of the block copolymer and the tackifier may also be defined in terms of solubility parameters. The solubility parameter δ according to the Hansen solubility space is defined in the article “ Solubility Parameter Values ” by Eric A. Grulke in the work “ Polymer Handbook ” 3rd edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference, by the relationship:
δ=(d D 2 +d P 2 +d H 2 ) 1/2 , in which:
d D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts, d p characterizes the forces of Debye interactions between permanent dipoles, d H characterizes the forces of specific interactions (hydrogen bond, acid/base or donor/acceptor type and the like). The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is given in the article by C. M. Hansen: “ The three - dimensional solubility parameters ” J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967), the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

The at least one tackifier used in the present invention will have a solubility parameter corresponding to an integer δ and the block copolymer will have at least one segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ±2, preferably δ±1.7, more preferably δ±1.5, more preferably δ±1.3, more preferably δ±1.0, more preferably δ±0.7, more preferably δ±0.5, and more preferably δ±0.3.
Examples of suitable tackifiers, include, but are not limited to, aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, aromatic modified aliphatic hydrocarbon resins, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene resins, polycyclopentadiene resins, gum rosins, gum rosin esters, wood rosins, wood rosin esters, tall oil rosins, tall oil rosin esters, polyterpenes, aromatic modified polyterpenes, terpene phenolics, aromatic modified hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene resins, hydrogenated aliphatic resin, hydrogenated aliphatic aromatic resins, hydrogenated terpenes and modified terpenes, hydrogenated rosin acids, hydrogenated rosin esters, polyisoprene, partially or fully hydrogenated polyisoprene, polybutenediene, partially or fully hydrogenated polybutenediene, and the like. As is evidenced by some of the cited examples, the tackifier may be fully or partially hydrogenated. The tackifier may also be non-polar. (Non-polar meaning that the tackifier is substantially free of monomers having polar groups. Preferably, the polar groups are not present, however, if they are present, they are preferably present in an amount of up to about 5% by weight, preferably up to about 2% by weight, and more preferably up to about 0.5% by weight.)
In some embodiments, the tackifier may have a softening point (Ring and Ball, as measured by ASTM E-28) of 80° C. to 150° C., preferably 100° C. to 130° C. In other embodiments the tackifier may be liquid and have an R and B softening point of between about −70° C. and 70° C.
In some embodiments, the tackifiers are hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins such as a hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer e.g., styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymers which include R1090, R1100, R7100, S1100, and S5100, all which are commercially available from Eastman Chemical under the trade name Regalite®. In other embodiments, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon-based tackifying resins, for instance the resins sold under the name “Piccotac” and “Hercotac” from Hercules or “Escorez” from Exxon, may also be used. It is also to be understood that mixtures of tackifiers may also be employed without departing from the spirit of the invention.
A particularly preferred tackifier for use in the present invention is a hydrogenated hydrocarbon resin such, for example, a hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer, commercially available from Eastman under the tradename Regalite® R1100.
The tackifier is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from greater than 0% to 90% by weight; greater than 0% to 70% by weight; greater than 0% to 60% by weight; greater than 0% to 50% by weight; greater than 0% to 40%; greater than 0% to 30% by weight; greater than 0% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Solvents
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention also contain at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the at least one soft segment of the block copolymer. Solvents which may be used herein are typically characterized in terms of their viscosity at room temperature, weight average molecular weight and solubility parameter in relation to the at least one soft segment of the block copolymer.
The solvent will have a viscosity, at room temperature, of from 1 to 50 cps, preferably from 1 to 40 cps, more preferably from 1 to 30 cps, more preferably from 2 to 20 cps, and more preferably from 2 to 10 cps.
The solvent used in the present invention will have a solubility parameter corresponding to an integer δ′ and the block copolymer will have at least one soft segment whose solubility parameter corresponds to δ′±2, preferably δ′±1.7, more preferably δ′±1.5, more preferably δ′±1.3, more preferably δ′±1.0, more preferably δ′±0.7, more preferably δ′±0.5, and more preferably δ′±0.3.
The solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment may be selected from volatile solvents and nonvolatile solvents. The expression “volatile solvent” means a solvent that is capable of evaporating at room temperature from a support onto which it has been applied, in other words a solvent which has a measurable vapor pressure at room temperature. See, U.S. Pat. No. 6,656,458, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Representative examples of suitable volatile organic solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils. The expression “hydrocarbon-based oil” means oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include isoparaffins, i.e., branched alkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane). It is also possible to use mixtures of such isoparaffins. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, can also be used.
Suitable nonvolatile solvents which can be used are those having a weight average molecular weight in the range of 150 to 450, preferably from 200 to 350. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, polydecene and polybutene.
The solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment may typically be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of greater than 0% to 85% by weight; greater than 0% to 75% by weight; greater than 0% to 55% by weight; greater than 0% to 45% by weight; greater than 0% to 40% by weight; greater than 0% to 30% by weight; greater than 0% to 20% by weight; greater than 0% to 10% by weight; greater than 0% to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the solvent may be mixed with at least one co-solvent having a high molecular weight and high viscosity, in order to improve the flow of the lip treatment composition during application onto the lips, as well as its feel and comfort thereon.
The high viscosity co-solvents have weight average molecular weights ranging from 500 to 2000, preferably from 500 to 1500, and more preferably from 500 to 1000. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated polydecene commercially available under the tradenames Puresyn 6 (Mw=570), Puresyn 8 (Mw=635), and Silkflo 366 (Mw=556), polyisobutene (Mw=950), hydrogenated polyisobutene commercially available under the tradename Polysilane V (Mw=1000) and polybutene commercially available under the tradename Indopol H100 (Mw=920).
These co-solvents may be employed in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0% to 60% by weight; greater than 0% to 50% by weight; greater than 0% to 40% by weight; greater than 0% to 30% by weight; greater than 0% to 25% by weight, all weights based on the weight of the composition.
According to yet another embodiment of the present invention, it has been found that the use of at least one homopolymer of the same type as that of the at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment, but having a weight average molecular weight of greater than 2000, improves the adhesion, thereby limiting the migration, of the lip treatment composition on the skin.
Examples of suitable homopolymers include, but are not limited to, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene. The weight average molecular weight of these homopolymers is preferably from 2,500 to 100,000, and more preferably from 3,000 to 10,000.
The homopolymer can be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0% to 30% by weight; greater than 0% to 25% by weight; greater than 0% to 20% by weight; greater than 0% to 18% by weight; greater than 0% to 15% by weight, all weights based on the weight of the composition.
In the event that at least one solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment, at least one co-solvent capable of solubilizing the soft segment, and at least one homopolymer are used, in combination, the mixture will have a viscosity of from 20 to 1000 cps, preferably from 20 to 800 cps, and more preferably from 20 to 500 cps. The viscosity of the mixture is determined using the formula:
η mix = ∏ i n ⁢ ⁢ η i ϕ i

wherein η mix represents the viscosity of the mixture, η i represents the viscosity of the individual components, and φ i represents the weight fraction of the individual components.

Colorant
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one cosmetically acceptable colorant such as a pigment or dyestuff. Examples of suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. A pigment should be understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Said pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the present invention but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index under the reference CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under references CI 77,499, 77, 492 and, 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77,007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and ferric blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.
Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45,425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15,985), D&C Red No. 30 (CI 73,360), D&C Red No. 3 (CI 45,430) and the dye or lakes based on cochineal carmine (CI 75,570) and mixtures thereof.
Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of the white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
The precise amount and type of colorant employed in the compositions of the present invention will depend on the color, intensity and use of the cosmetic composition and, as a result, will be determined by those skilled in the art of cosmetic formulation.
Shine Enhancing Agents
It may, at times, be desirable to provide cosmetic compositions having enhanced shine/gloss properties. In those instances, at least one shine enhancing agent would be employed in the composition.
Suitable shine enhancing agents include those compounds having a refractive index ranging from 1.45 to 1.60, and a weight average molecular weight of less than 15,000, preferably less than 10,000, preferably less than 2,000. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, phenylated silicones such as those commercialized under the trade name “Abil AV 8853” by Goldschmidt, those commercialized under the trade names “DC 554”, “DC 555”, “DC 556”, “SF 558” by Dow Corning, and those commercialized under the trade name “Silbione 70633 V 30” by Rhône-Poulenc.
Additional examples of suitable phenylated silicones include, but are not limited to, those commercialized by Wacker Silicones such as Belsil PDM 20, a phenylated silicone with a viscosity at 25° C. of approximately 20 cSt; Belsil PDM 200, a phenylated silicone with a viscosity at 25° C. of approximately 200 cSt; Belsil PDM 1000, a phenylated silicone with a viscosity at 25° C. of approximately 1000 cSt.
Additional examples of suitable shine enhancing agents include, but are not limited to, polycyclopentadiene, poly(propylene glycol) dibenzoate (n D =1.5345), aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone (n D =1.49-1.51), pentaerythrityl tetraoleate commercially available as Puresyn 4E68 (n D =1.473) from ExxonMobil, and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate commercially available as Crodamol STS (n D =1.4696) from Croda Inc.
Particularly preferred shine enhancing agents are the phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraoleate, and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.
The shine enhancing agent may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to 40% by weight; up to 30% by weight; up to 20% by weight; from 1 to 20% by weight; from 2 to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Modified Silicones
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain at least one modified silicone to improve the texture and comfort. Examples of suitable modified silicones include, but are not limited to, polyethyleneoxy- and/or polypropyleneoxy-modified silicone, alkoxy-modified silicone, hydroxyalkyl-modified silicone, acyloxyalkyl-modified silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, amino-modified silicone, epoxy-modified silicone, carboxyl-modified silicone, chloroalkyl-modified silicone, alkyl-higher-alcohol-ester-modified silicone, alcohol- modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, phenyl-modified silicone, alkylpolyglyceryl-modified silicone, perfluoroalkyl polyether-co-modified silicone and fluorine-modified silicone.
The modified silicone may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of up to 30% by weight; up to 25% by weight; up to 20% by weight; up to 10% by weight; up to 8% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Waxes
In some embodiments, it may be desirable to formulate cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention which are free of wax. However, in the event that a wax is employed, it will be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Suitable waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, those of natural origin such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil. Examples of suitable synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C., silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes and/or poly(di)methyl-siloxane esters that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C.
Gelling Agents
The compositions of the invention may also be optionally gelled with an oil-phase gelling agent. The gelling agent increases the liquid fatty phase viscosity and leads to a solid or flowable composition when introduced in said fatty phase. The gelling agent does not encompass waxes, in the sense that it is not waxy. The at least one gelling agent may be chosen from gelling agents in polymeric form and gelling agents in mineral form. The gelling agent may be chosen from agents that gel via chemical reticulation and agents that gel via physical reticulation.
Modified clays may be used as gelling agents, examples of which include, but are not limited to, hectorites modified with an ammonium chloride of a C 10 to C 22 fatty acid, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, also known as quaternium-18 bentonite, such as the products sold or made under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 sold or made by the company Southern Clay, the modified clays known under the name quaternium-18 benzalkonium bentonites and sold or made under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, the clays modified with stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride, known as stearalkonium bentonites, such as the products sold or made under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by the company Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 sold or made by the company Rheox.
Other mineral gelling agents, which can be used in the invention, include silica, such as fumed silica. The fumed silica may have a particle size, which may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from 5 nm to 200 nm.
The fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in a hydrogen-oxygen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible to obtain hydrophilic silicas that have a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold or made, for example, under the names “Aerosil 130®”, “Aerosil 200®”, “Aerosil 255®”, “Aerosil 300®” and “Aerosil 380®” by the company Degussa, and “CAB-O-SIL HS-5®”, “CAB-O-SIL EH-5®”, “CAB-O-SIL LM-130 ®”, “CAB-O-SIL MS-55®” and “CAB-O-SIL M-5®” by the company Cabot.
It is thus possible to chemically modify the surface of the hydrophilic silica by chemical reaction, producing a reduction in the number of silanol groups. The silanol groups can be replaced, for example, with hydrophobic groups: this then gives a hydrophobic silica. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as “silica silylate” according to the CTFA dictionary (6th edition, 1995). They are sold or made, for example, under the references “Aerosil R812®” by the company Degussa and “CAB-O-SIL TS-530®” by the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as “silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA dictionary (6th edition, 1995). They are sold or made, for example, under the references “Aerosil R9720®” and “Aerosil R974®” by the company Degussa, and “CAB-O-SIL TS-610®” and “CAB-O-SIL TS-720®” by the company Cabot; groups derived from reacting fumed silica with silane alkoxides or siloxanes. These treated silicas are, for example, the products sold or made under the reference “Aerosil R8050®” by the company Degussa.
According to the invention, hydrophobic silica, such as fumed silica, may be used as a lipophilic gelling agent. The use of fumed silica makes it possible to obtain a translucent or even transparent composition, in particular in the form of a stick, which does not exude, in the absence of opacifying particles such as waxes, fillers and pigments (including nacres).
The at least one lipophilic gelling agent can allow the exudation of the composition to be limited and can allow its stability to be increased, while at the same time conserving the composition's glossy appearance, which is not possible with waxes such as those used conventionally in cosmetics and dermatology.
The at least one gelling agent, if used, will typically be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Additives/Auxiliary Agents
The compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable additive such as a thickener, a film former, a plasticizer, an antioxidant, an essential oil, a preserving agent, a fragrance, a filler, a pasty fatty substance, a waxy fatty substance, a neutralizing agent, and a polymer, and cosmetically active agents and/or dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids and medicaments.
While the use of a plasticizer is not necessary in the lip treatment compositions of the present invention, it may, nevertheless, be desirable. Plasticizers are organic compounds added to a high polymer both to facilitate processing and to increase the flexibility and toughness of the final product by internal modification of the polymer molecule. Examples of suitable plasticizers include, but are not limited to, oils, cellulose esters, phthalate esters, adipate esters, sebacate esters, tricresyl phosphate, castor oil, glycol ethers, benzyl alcohol, triethyl citrate, and propylene carbonate.
Representative examples of preservatives include alkyl para-hydroxybenzoates, wherein the alkyl radical has from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms e.g., methyl para-hydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl para-hydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl para-hydroxybenzoate (propylparaben), butyl para-hydroxybenzoate (butylparaben) and isobutyl para-hydroxybenzoate (isobutylparaben). Mixtures of preservatives may certainly be used, e.g., the mixture of methyl-paraben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben sold under the name Nipastat by Nipa, and the mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben sold under the name Phenonip, also by Nipa. These preservatives may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to about 5% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Fillers that may be used in the compositions of the invention include, for example, silica powder; talc; polyamide particles and especially those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those based on ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as crosslinked or noncrosslinked corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenyl succinate anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; clays (bentone, laponite, saponite, etc.) and mixtures thereof. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.1 to about 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to about 30% by weight, and more preferably from about 1 to about 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a safe and effective amount of at least one active ingredient or pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof. The term “safe and effective amount” as used herein, means an amount sufficient to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin benefit, while at the same time avoiding serious side effects, at a reasonable benefit to risk ratio within the scope of sound medical judgment. What is a safe and effective amount of the active ingredient will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the active agent to penetrate through the skin, the age, health and skin condition of the user, and other like factors. Typically, the active ingredient may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
The active ingredients useful herein can be categorized by their therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the active ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one therapeutic benefit or operate via more than one mode of action. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the active ingredient to that particular application or applications listed. Also, pharmaceutically acceptable salts of these active ingredients are useful herein. The following active ingredients are useful in the compositions of the present invention.
Anti-Acne Actives: Examples of useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; lipoic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4′-trichlorobanilide, azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and meclocycline; sebostats such as flavonoids; and bile salts such as scymnol sulfate and its derivatives, deoxycholate, and cholate.
Antimicrobial and Antifungal Actives: Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives include .beta.-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4′-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxy propanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlorometa xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate and clotrimazole.
The cosmetic compositions of this invention may also contain sunscreens, which are chemical absorbers that actually absorb harmful ultraviolet radiation. It is well known that chemical absorbers are classified, depending on the type of radiation they protect against, as either UV-A or UV-B absorbers. UV-A absorbers generally absorb radiation in the 320 to 400 nm region of the ultraviolet spectrum. UV-A absorbers include anthranilates, benzophenones, and dibenzoyl methanes. UV-B absorbers generally absorb radiation in the 280 to 320 nm region of the ultraviolet spectrum. UV-B absorbers include p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, cinnamates, and salicylates.
The sunscreens useful in the present invention typically comprise chemical absorbers, but may also comprise physical blockers. Exemplary sunscreens which may be formulated into the compositions of the present invention are chemical absorbers such as p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, anthranilates, benzophenones, camphor derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, dibenzoyl methanes (such as avobenzone also known as Parsol® 1789), diphenylacrylate derivatives, salicylic derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzimidazole compounds, bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, the sunscreen polymers and silicones, or mixtures thereof. Also exemplary of the sunscreens which may be formulated into the compositions of this invention are physical blockers such as cerium oxides, chromium oxides, cobalt oxides, iron oxides, red petrolatum, silicone-treated titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and/or zirconium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
Examples of suitable sunscreens include, but are not limited to: aminobenzoic acid, amyldimethyl PABA, cinoxate, diethanolamine p-methoxycinnamate, digalloyl trioleate, dioxybenzone, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl 4-bis(hydroxypropyl)aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, homomenthyl salicylate, homosalate, 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and ethyl ester, methyl anthranilate, octyldimethyl PABA, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and salts, red petrolatum, sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, triethanolamine salicylate, N, N, N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene methyl)anillinium methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The lip treatment composition of the invention may be in the form of a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip pencil, optionally having care or treating properties.
Rheology
The rheological properties of lip-gloss compositions in accordance with the present invention are determined by using a controlled stress rheometer, commercially available from TA Instruments under the name AR-G2. The samples are measured using a parallel plate having a stainless steel, cross hatched, 40 mm diameter plate. The gap is set at 1,000 microns. The desired temperature is precisely controlled by a Peltier system.
The lip-gloss sample is transferred to the rheometer, and heated to 35° C. for about 10 minutes. The sample is then cooled and held at 25° C. for about 10 minutes or more.
The linear viscoelastic regime is determined by oscillation stress sweep mode with a range of from 1 mN.m to 100 mN.m, at a constant frequency of 1 rad/s. Said linear viscoelastic regime corresponds to the elastic/storage modulus G′, within the above range, when the elastic/storage modulus G′ is constant, or nearly constant, at the applied oscillation stress.
The frequency sweep experiment is then performed from 100 rad/s to 0.01 rad/s at a low oscillation stress in the linear viscoelastic regime. The elastic/storage modulus G′ at a frequency ω of 0.01 rad/s is determined from the frequency sweep mode.
The lower the value of the elastic/storage modulus G′, at a frequency ω of 0.01 rad/s, the better the wetting property and the less creep resistance for the lip-gloss composition.
In the linear viscoelastic regime, the elastic/storage modulus G′ at a frequency ω of 0.01 rad/s, of compositions in accordance with the present invention, is in the range of from 0.01 Pa to 500 Pa at 25° C.
After finishing the dynamic oscillation experiment, the same sample is equilibrated for 10 minutes, at a constant temperature of 25° C. Creep and recovery measurements are then performed at a constant stress of 0.8 Pa.
The creep viscosity (η creep ) of the lip gloss composition, measured at a constant stress (σ) of 0.8 Pa, is determined from the creep strain (γ creep ) and the recoverable strain (γ recovery ), wherein the creep strain duration (t creep ) is 10 minutes and the recoverable strain duration is 30 minutes. The creep viscosity is calculated by the following expression:
η creep = σ ⁢ ⁢ t creep ( γ creep ⁡ ( t = 10 ⁢ ⁢ min ) - γ recovery ⁡ ( t = 30 ⁢ ⁢ min ) )

A high creep viscosity value (η creep ) at low stress, with a creep time of 10 minutes (near zero shear rate), provides for a longer wear of the composition. Therefore, a lip composition with a high creep viscosity value (η creep ) at low stress will maintain its structure, thus its stability, at rest, will show less migration, and will provide a lasting shine.
The creep viscosity (η creep ) of compositions in accordance with the present invention, at a constant stress (σ) of 0.8 Pa, is in the range of from 2 Pa·s to 150,000 Pa·s at 25° C.
The present invention is further described in terms of the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts and percentages are on a weight-by-weight percentage basis.
EXAMPLES
Lip gloss compositions in accordance with the present invention were prepared per the following formulas:
All values are expressed in % w/w.
Example 1















PHASE
TRADE NAME
% w/w












A
PURESYN 1 2
35.00


B
KRATON G1657 M
7.00


C
REGALITE R1100
28.00


D
PURESYN 1 6
21.25



PURESYN 1 150
8.75



TOTAL
100.00





1 Hydrogenated polydecenes available from ExxonMobil.

























Preparation procedure
Example 1 was prepared as follows:
The oil of phase A was pre-heated to 100° C. for 10 minutes in a beaker, with medium mixing, using a propeller mixer.
Phase B (KRATON G1675 M) was added to phase A at 100° C.
Phase B and phase A were mixed at high speed for 30 minutes until phase B was totally dissolved into phase A.
Phase C (Regalite R1100) was then slowly added into phase (A+B) with mixing at moderate speed at 95° C. until the solution became homogeneous.
The temperature was reduced to 90° C. and phase D containing oil mixtures was added to phase (A+B+C), and mixed at low speed.
Mixing speed was then reduced and the resulting fluid was cooled to room temperature.
The samples were transferred into individual packages at room temperature.
The samples exhibited desirable shine and wear properties.
Example 2
Shiny Liquid Lipgloss















PHASE
TRADE NAME
% w/w












A
PURESYN 1 2
25.26



ISOPROPYL PALMITATE
19.00


B
KRATON G1657 M
8.00


C
REGALITE R1100
24.00


D
PURESYN 1 150
16.00


E
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
0.15



IRON OXIDE
0.31



D&C RED No. 7
0.23



BLACK IRON OXIDE
0.05



PURESYN 1 2
1.00


F
MICA
2.00



AMIHOPE LL 2
1.00



AEROSIL R972
3.00



TOTAL
100.00





1 Hydrogenated polydecenes available from ExxonMobil.


2 Lauroyl Lysine powder available from Ajinomoto.


































Example 2 was prepared as follows:
The oil of phase A was pre-heated to 100° C. for 10 minutes in a beaker, with medium mixing, using a propeller mixer.
Phase B (KRATON G1675 M) was added to phase A at 100° C.
Phase B and phase A were mixed at high speed for 30 minutes until phase B was totally dissolved into phase A.
Phase C (Regalite R1100) was then slowly added into phase (A+B) with mixing at moderate speed at 95° C. until the solution became homogeneous.
The temperature was reduced to 90° C. and phase D containing oil mixtures was added to phase (A+B+C), and mixed at low speed.
In a separate beaker, phase E ingredients were mixed, by hand, until the pigments were totally wet with oil, to form a pigment mixture.
The pigment mixture was then transferred to a three-roll mill and milled until the color became homogeneous, to form a milled pigment mixture.
The milled pigment mixture was then transferred into the beaker containing phase (A+B+C+D) and mixed, at average speed, for approximately 5 minutes.
Phase F was then slowly added into the beaker containing phase (A+B+C+D+E) and mixed for 10 minutes at high speed.
Mixing speed was then reduced and the resulting fluid was cooled to room temperature.
The samples were transferred into individual packages at room temperature.
The samples exhibited desirable shine and wear properties.
Rheology of examples 1 and 2
The elastic/storage modulus G′, at a frequency of 0.01 rad/s, at a temperature of 25° C., was 0.035 Pa and 16.0 Pa, for examples 1 and 2, respectively.
The creep viscosity, at a constant stress of 0.8 Pa, at a temperature of 25° C., was 120 Pa·s, and 1.79×10 3 Pa·s, for examples 1 and 2, respectively.