(en)Cosmetic compositions which display structural color include at least two cosmetically acceptable liquid phases, either or both of which contain cosmetically efficacious agents, the phases being selected to have the same refractive index, but different dispersive power.

1.ApplicationNumber: US-95537892-A
1.PublishNumber: US-5290555-A
2.Date Publish: 19940301
3.Inventor: GUTHAUSER; BERNADETTE
RADICE; WILLIAM J.

4.Inventor Harmonized: GUTHAUSER BERNADETTE(US)
RADICE WILLIAM J(US)

5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)Cosmetic compositions which display structural color include at least two cosmetically acceptable liquid phases, either or both of which contain cosmetically efficacious agents, the phases being selected to have the same refractive index, but different dispersive power.

7.Description:
(en)This is a continuation Ser. No.07/756,724 filed on Sept. 9, 1991 abandoned; which is in turn a continuation of Ser. No. 675,390 filed Apr. 29, 1992 abandoned; which is in turn a continuation of Ser. No. 407,347 filed Sept. 14, 1989 abandoned.


This invention is in the field of body-treating compositions. More particularly, this invention is directed to cosmetic compositions, specifically cosmetic compositions which exhibit the optical phenomenon known as "structural color."
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
From the earliest of times human beings have been concerned with their appearance and the condition of their external features, their skin, hair, fingernails, etc. Accordingly, a myriad of cosmetic compositions have been developed to satisfy the demand for such products. Cosmetics often are designed to have both utilitarian and aesthetic appeal. Although the utilitarian aspects of the compositions of this invention have not been neglected, it is primarily with the aesthetic aspects that this invention is concerned. In this regard, the cosmetic compositions of this invention exhibit a beautiful and intriguing phenomenon known as "structural color."
Briefly, when two transparent, immiscible liquids are mixed, the combination is often cloudy. If, however, the liquids have the same refractive index (generally measured at 589 nm, i.e., the sodium D line, and 20° C., viz., "n D 20 "), the mixture will be substantially transparent to the human eye and appear to be homogeneous. The appearance of "structural color" in such a mixture requires, not only that the refractive indexes (at a given wavelength of visible light) are the same, but that the variation of the indexes as a function of visible wavelength differ for the two liquids. That is, the "dispersive power" of the two phases must be different.
Chemical systems which exhibit structural color have been referred to as "chromatic emulsions" by Holmes and Cameron, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 44, pp 71-74 (1922), who traced the first report of the phenomenon to 1913. Indeed the liquid mixtures may contain emulsifying agents, and the mixtures may be transparent emulsions. Emulsions are especially useful in cosmetic applications; see, e.g., Cosmetics & Toiletries. 101, pp 25-44 (1986). However, emulsification is not a requirement.
Holmes and Cameron provided the following illustrations: When glycerol (n D 20 =1.4660) and amyl acetate (n D 20 =1.4012) were shaken together, a milky-white mixture resulted, a typical emulsion. However, when water (n D 20 =1.3330) was added to the glycerol until n D 20 of that solution was 1.4012, and amyl acetate was shaken with the solution, a perfectly transparent emulsion was obtained; however, no color is reported. Further, the authors report: "In attempting to disperse glycerol in an acetone solution of cellulose nitrate we failed to get transparency. Since the index of refraction of the acetone (1.35886) was lower than that of the glycerol (1.4660) we added benzene (1.50144) cautiously to the milky emulsion in order to equalize the indices of the two liquid phases of course the benzene diluted the acetone thus becoming part of the continuous phase. With cautious additions, and shaking, increased transparency was secured but accompanied by a startling development of colors. At first the emulsion became yellow as viewed from the side and a soft blue when held between the eye and the source of light. With further addition of benzene the yellow changed to beautiful pink while the blue became green. More benzene changed the pink to lavender and later to a peacock-blue. Finally, the emulsion lost color and became milky. The colors are restored, in reverse order, by cautious additions of acetone."
Structural color as exhibited in chromatic emulsions has been described subsequent to the paper of Holmes and Cameron. Such reports appear in J. Phys. Chem., 56, pp 510-513 (1952) and in P. Becher, "Emulsions: Theory and Practice," 2nd Ed., Reinhold Publishing Corp., New York, N.Y., 1965, p 58, for example. The systems described in this prior art were not directed toward cosmetic applications, and the need to use cosmetically acceptable components was not addressed; rather, aromatic hydrocarbons (e.g., benzene), halocarbons (e.g., chloroform and carbon tetrachloride), and amines (e.g., pyridine) were mentioned as components.
Transparent emulsions which might have application in cosmetics are disclosed in Int'L. J. Cosmet. Sci., 8, pp 1-8 (1986) and in UK published application 2 079 300 A, for example. Various cosmetically acceptable components are cited, including silicone compounds. However, none of the cosmetic compositions is said to exhibit structural color, so the requirement of a difference in dispersive power between the two phases apparently was neither sought nor achieved.
To be distinguished from the emulsions of this invention, which exhibit structural color, are transparent microemulsions in which the transparency is achieved, not by virtue of refractive index matching, but rather by controlling the diameter of the dispersed phase particles, making them so small, less than about 0.05 micron, that they cannot be resolved by visible light. The compositions of this invention are not restricted to emulsions; but to the extent the compositions are emulsions, they can, if desired, be macroemulsions, no attempt being required to control the dispersed phase particle size.
Consequently, it is one object of this invention to provide useful cosmetic compositions with the aesthetic feature of exhibiting structural color. It is another objective to provide such compositions using cosmetically acceptable components.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In achieving the aforesaid objectives, this invention provides cosmetic compositions which comprise a mixture of at least two cosmetically acceptable, incompletely miscible fluid phases, generally a continuous phase and a dispersed phase, any or all of the phases including cosmetically effective amounts of cosmetically efficacious components, and the phases exhibiting substantially the same refractive index, but different dispersive power, whereby the compositions display structural color phenomena. Examples of two phase systems include silicone fluids and water. Three phase systems could include a silicone phase, a vegetable oil phase, and water, for example.
The choice of cosmetically efficacious components from the wide range of materials known in the art permits construction of cosmetic compositions within the scope of this invention which have a spectrum of uses. For example, cosmetic compositions exhibiting structural color may include shampoos, hair conditioners, after shave lotions, various skin moisturizers, nail polish removers, skin cleansing products, skin bleaching lotions, skin fresheners, splashes, moisturizing colognes, and suntan lotions.


DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The cosmetically efficacious components can be present in one or more of the phases in a cosmetically effective amount and are selected on the basis of the functional and aesthetic qualities desired in the product, qualities and quantities which are well known in the art for various components. However, the cosmetically efficacious components must also be selected from those which provide substantially translucent, if not substantially transparent, and preferably colorless individual phases in the cosmetic compositions.
One phase may, for example, contain components which are miscible primarily with water and/or alcohol, while the other phase contains components which are primarily miscible with hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, or silicone compounds. In formulating the mixtures which constitute the compositions of this invention into emulsions, either phase generally can be made to be the continuous or the dispersed phase by including an emulsifying agent selected according to hydrophiliclipophilic balance criteria which are well known in the art.
The selection of major components of the cosmetic compositions must be made with an eye toward their optical properties, i.e. color, refractive index and dispersive power. The refractive indexes and the colors of numerous chemical compounds can be found in the various well known handbooks of chemistry. The dispersive power of some common liquids is provided in references cited above. The International Critical Tables provides both refractive index and dispersive power for a number of liquids. However, it should be appreciated that a certain amount of experimentation is often necessary to achieve the delicate balances required in producing the cosmetic compositions of this invention.
A useful technique for screening pairs of incompletely miscible fluid phases for the structural color phenomenon is to combine the two phases with vigorous stirring and titrate the mixture with one of the components to the appearance of color. For example, if aqueous and oil phases are to be combined, one can begin with the refractive index of the aqueous phase adjusted 0.04-0.08 higher than the refractive index of the oil phase, e.g., by adding glycerol. The phases are then mixed, and the mixture is titrated with pure water, which has a relatively low refractive index (1.333), to the point where either turbidity or color is observed. If the mixture becomes turbid or opaque without first passing through a color transition, it must be concluded the difference in dispersive power between the two phases is too small for the mixture to exhibit structural color.
In preferred embodiments, one phase is aqueous or alcoholic and the other phase contains one or more cosmetically acceptable silicone-type polymers. In this regard, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, including mixtures thereof, are especially useful. In selecting suitable polymers of these types it is desirable that the viscosity of polymer solutions lie in the range of about 0.1 centipoise to about 10 6 centipoise at 25° C. Emollients such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, and hydrocarbons may also be employed advantageously. The relative amounts of the two phases is not critical; the dispersed phase may constitute between about 10 percent and about 80 percent by weight of the cosmetic composition.
Although the invention includes compositions which are otherwise, in preferred embodiments the compositions include at least one emulsifying agent, and the compositions are emulsions. The emulsifying agent should be substantially transparent and/or soluble in one of the phases and compatible with the other components of the composition. Functionally, the emulsifying agent can be anionic, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, cationic, such as olealkonium chloride, nonionic, such as Polysorbate 20, or amphoteric The backbone of the emulsifier molecule can be aliphatic, aromatic, or a polysiloxane chain; it can be straight-chained or branched and combine any of the aforesaid structural possibilities.
Especially preferred embodiments include cosmetic compositions which are skin moisturizers, suntan lotions, after-shave lotions, shampoos, skin-bleaching lotions, nail polish remover, cleansing gels, hair conditioners, splashes, and hydroalcoholic skin fresheners and coolers.
The invention will be clarified by reference to the following Examples which illustrate its application.
The following cosmetic compositions were prepared by separately mixing the phases, having first determined their refractive indexes (RI) and adjusted them to be nearly the same, and then combining the two with stirring in a colorless glass vessel. The refractive indexes were then matched by adding a component, generally one of those already present, in a quantity sufficient (QS) to achieve structural color in the composition. All quantities in the Examples are in parts by weight unless stated otherwise. Each component in the Examples is named in accordance with the usual chemical name, the "CTFA Adopted Name," as set forth in "CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary," Third Ed., The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982, or trade name.
EXAMPLE 1
Shampoo

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase ComponentsWater 18.87QS to color 2-4Urea 18.87Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25% aq.) 28.30PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides 18.87Oil Phase ComponentsDimethicone (0.65 cts.).sup.6 9.0Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 1.5Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Phenyl Trimethicone 6.0______________________________________

The resultant composition was light blue in color.
EXAMPLE 2
Make Up Remover

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase Components (RI 1.448)Isododecane 11.5Sorbitan Sesquioleate 3.2Olive Oil 11.5Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.446)Water 11.5PEG-8 57.0QS to color 0.5-1.5______________________________________

The resultant composition was faint bluish-yellow in color.
EXAMPLE 3
Moisturizer

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.421)Water 28.0QS to color 3-5Polysorbate 20 2.0PEG-8 42.0Oil Phase Components (RI 1.411)Neo pentyl glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 10.0Dimethicone (0.65 cts.).sup.6 10.0______________________________________

The resultant composition was bluish-yellow.
EXAMPLE 4
Moisturizer

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase ComponentsWater 15.0QS to color 1-2PEG-8 45.0Steareth-20 4.0Oil Phase ComponentsOlive Oil 18.0Isododecane 18.0______________________________________

The color of the resultant composition was yellowish-blue.
EXAMPLE 5
After Shave Lotion

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase ComponentsSD Alcohol 40 20.0QS to color 4.4PEG-8 13.0Butylene Glycol 10.0Water 5.0Urea 5.0Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.12Oil Phase ComponentsPhenyl Trimethicone 7.0Cyclomethicone 30.0Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 5.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Nonoxynol-2 2.0Fragrance 1.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was slightly translucent yellow/light blue.
EXAMPLE 6
Sun Protection Lotion

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase Components (RI 1.4395)C.sub.9 -C.sub.10 Isoparaffin 30.0Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 20.0Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.0Oleic Acid 3.0Polysorbate 80 3.0Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.444)Potassium Hydroxide, 10% aq. 2.0Water 6.0QS to color 4.0Butylene Glycol 2.0PEG-8 30.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was yellow/white/light blue.
EXAMPLE 7
Moisturizer

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.418)Methylparaben 0.25Propylene Glycol 3.2Butylene Glycol 2.0Water 20.0QS to color 11.2Laureth-23 2.0Urea 3.0PEG-8 26.55Oil Phase Components (RI 1.405)Cyclomethicone 32.0Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 5.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.2 1.0Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1______________________________________

The color of the composition was hazy blue/white.
EXAMPLE 8
Moisturizer

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.4375)Propylene Glycol 3.75Methylparaben 0.25Urea 3.0Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.3Water 15.0QS to color 8.6PEG-8 31.0Butylene Glycol 2.0Laureth 23 2.0Oil Phase Components (RI 1.423)Cyclomethicone 20.0Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 5.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Phenyl Trimethicone 6.0Cetearyl Octanoate 6.0Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.2 1.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was hazy blue/white.
EXAMPLE 9
Moisturizer

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Aqueous Phase ComponentsPropylene Glycol 3.3Preservatives.sup.3 0.4Urea 2.0Water 18.4QS to color 1.0PEG-8 27.0PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 5.0Oil Phase ComponentsCetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 5.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Isopropyl Stearate 15.0Cyclomethicone 15.0Octyl Dimethyl PABA 2.0Trioleyl Phosphate 2.0Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.4 5.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was soft green/purple.
EXAMPLE 10
Nail Polish Remover

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase Components (RI 1.398)Ethyl Acetate 14.6Acetone 14.6Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 5.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.2 2.0Cyclomethicone 6.0Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.457)Isopropyl alcohol 10.8Water 4.0QS to color 6.2PEG-8 40.0Talloweth-60 Myristyl Glycol 2.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was translucent/blue.
EXAMPLE 11
Cleansing Gel

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Continuous Phase ComponentsCetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 3.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Phenyl Trimethicone 15.0Fumed Silica, 6% in Mineral Oil 33.0Cyclomethicone QS to color 1.0Dispersed Phase ComponentsMethylparaben 0.35Propylene Glycol 5.1PEG-8 42.55PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether 1.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was transparent yellow.
EXAMPLE 12
Cleansing Gel

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Continuous Phase ComponentsCetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 3.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Phenyl Trimethicone 15.0Fumed Silica, 6% in Mineral Oil 28.0Methyl Anthranilate 0.2Dispersed Phase ComponentsMethylparaben 0.35Propylene Glycol 5.1PEG-8 42.55PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether 1.0Hydroxypropylcellulose, 4% in PEG-8 5.0QS to color 2.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was transparent blue.
EXAMPLE 13
Hair Conditioner

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase Components (RI 1.423)Polysiloxane Polydimethyl Dialkyammonium 10.0Acetate Copolymer.sup.5Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.2 2.0Phenyl Trimethicone 8.0Cyclomethicone 8.0Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.4425)Water 10.0QS to color 5.4Olealkonium Chloride (50% aq.) 3.0PEG-8 40.0______________________________________

The color of the composition was yellow/blue.
EXAMPLE 14
Skin Bleaching Lotion

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase Components (RI 1.4325)Cyclomethicone 20.0Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2.0Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol Polyglyceryl-4 5.0Isostearate Hexyl Laurate.sup.1Phenyl Trimethicone 6.0Cetearyl Octanoate 6.0Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.2 1.0Fragrance 3.0Aqueous Phase Components (RI 1.438)Methylparaben 0.25Butylene Glycol 2.0Propylene Glycol 3.3Urea 3.0Water 12.6QS to color 2.7Laureth-23 1.0Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.3Hydroquinone 2.0Sodium Bisulfite 0.4PEG-8 27.45______________________________________

The color of the composition was yellow/blue.
EXAMPLE 15
Suntan Lotion

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase ComponentsIsopropyl Stearate 10.0Cyclomethicone 20.0Methyl Anthranilate 3.5Octyl Methoxycinnamate 3.0Oleamide Diethanolamine 3.0Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.4 10.0Fragrance 0.1Aqueous Phase ComponentsPropylene Glycol 2.8Preservatives.sup.3 0.4Urea 6.0Water 8.4QS to color 6.2Sodium Diethylsulfosuccinate (75% aq.) 3.0PEG-8 23.7______________________________________

When viewed from the side, the composition was sparkling yellow, with patches and longitudinal striations of a light blue; but viewed when held up between the eyes and the light source, the blue of a singular purity dominated over the yellow.
EXAMPLE 16
Suntan Lotion

______________________________________ Quantity______________________________________Oil Phase ComponentsIsopropyl Stearate 10.0Cyclomethicone 17.0Methyl Anthranilate 3.5Octyl Methoxycinnamate 3.0Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol.sup.4 7.0Fragrance 0.1Isostearic Acid 4.0Phenyl Trimethicone 2.0Poloxamer 401 2.0Aqueous Phase ComponentsPropylene Glycol 2.8Preservatives.sup.3 0.4F.D. + C RED #4 Dye (0.05% aq.) 0.07Water 16.73QS to color 5.72-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 1.1Sodium Diethylsulfosuccinate (75% aq) 1.0PEG-8 23.7______________________________________ .sup.1 Available as ABIL WE09 from Goldschmidt Chemical Company, Hopewell VA 23860. .sup.2 Available as ABIL B 9806 from Goldschmidt Chemical Co. .sup.3 Methyl Paraben 0.25 Trisodium EDTA 0.05 Quaternium-15 0.1 .sup.4 Available as Q23225C from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, MI 48640. .sup.5 Available as ABIL B 9905 from Goldschmidt Chemical Co. .sup.6 Available as DC 200 Fluid from Dow Corning, Midland, MI.

The individual phases were clear and substantially colorless, except for the very small amount of red dye added, giving upon shaking a warm reddish/yellow sunset color combination, thus helping to visualize the functional properties of the product.
Having described this invention with reference to a number of cosmetic compositions with a range of utilities, it will be evident the invention is capable of broad application to a wide range of different cosmetic products. The scope of the invention not limited to the specific embodiments described herein, but is set forth in the following claims.