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(en)Hydrolyzed jojoba protein is provided which can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations to enhance the desirable properties thereof. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein. Cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, bath and shower gels, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens can be improved by incorporation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein therein.
1.ApplicationNumber: US-43154903-A
1.PublishNumber: US-6800736-B2
2.Date Publish: 20041005
3.Inventor: HOWARD MARK A.
MANINGAT CLODUALDO C.
BASSI SUKH
MAKWANA DHARMEN
ROHDE SORAYA
CARSON JOHN
4.Inventor Harmonized: HOWARD MARK A(US)
MANINGAT CLODUALDO C(US)
BASSI SUKH(US)
MAKWANA DHARMEN(US)
ROHDE SORAYA(US)
CARSON JOHN(US)
5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)Hydrolyzed jojoba protein is provided which can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations to enhance the desirable properties thereof. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein. Cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, bath and shower gels, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens can be improved by incorporation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein therein.
7.Description:
(en)CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION
This is a continuation of application Ser. No. 10/057,214 filed Jan. 24, 2002 now U.S. Pat. No. 6,716,599 which is a continuation of 09/841,552 filed Apr. 23, 2001, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,171.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention is broadly concerned with hydrolyzed jojoba protein and uses thereof, particularly in connection with cosmetic products such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. More particularly, it is concerned with hydrolyzed jojoba protein which is preferably in the form of a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein; such mixtures, when used in cosmetic products provide enhanced properties.
2. Description of the Prior Art
Jojoba is a dioecious wind-pollinated shrub, reaching a height of 1-5 meters and having a long life span (100-200 years). Jojoba is cultivated mainly in Arizona, Northern Mexico, Argentina and Israel. Genetic variability in morphology, anatomy and physiology within the species is very large and enable selection of clones for high yield and other agricultural attributes. Leaves are xerophytic with a thick cuticle, sunken stomata. They contain special tissue with a high concentration of phenol compounds. Flowers are apetalous: the female ones are usually solitary, one per two nodes although flowers every node or in clusters are not rare. The male flowers are clustered. Flower buds form in the axiles of leaves solely on the new vegetative growth occurring during the warm seasons under favorable temperatures and water regime. New flower buds are dormant and will open only after a cool season with enough cold units for the fulfillment of their chilling requirements. Anthesis occurs in the spring when the soil and air temperature rise to above 15° C. Severe water stress prevents opening of flowers. The jojoba fruit is a capsule containing one to three dark brown seeds that normally range in their dry weight between 0.5-1.1 g and contains 44-56% wax. Fruits ripen during the spring and early summer and seeds fall to the ground in late summer.
Indigenous Amerinds in the Sonora and Baja, Calif. used jojoba seed and oil for cooking, hair care, and for treatments of many medical problems such as poison ivy, sores, wounds, colds, cancer and kidney malfunction. The oil is extracted from jojoba seed by conventional screw pressing techniques, leaving a residual defatted dry material which is high in native jojoba protein (typically on the order of 25-35% by weight protein).
Jojoba oil is a light yellow liquid at room temperature and is made up of straight-chain esters of mono-unsaturated long chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols and has an average total carbon chain length of 42 carbons. The product may be isomerized, hydrogenated, sulfurized, chlorinated or transesterified, and has a wide range of industrial uses, mainly in cosmetics in which it is incorporated in formulations for skin care preparations such as lotions, moisturizers, massage oils, creams, hair care products, lipsticks, makeups and nail products. Other potential uses include pharmaceuticals and as extenders for plastics, printers inks, gear-oil additives and lubricants.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a new form of jojoba protein, namely hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof, as well as uses of such protein products in cosmetic formulations. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof in accordance with the invention comprise a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of the naturally occurring jojoba protein. Such hydrolysis is preferably carried out enzymatically, but if desired acid hydrolysis can also be employed.
In more detail, the hydrolyzed jojoba protein is typically in the form of a mixture having an amino acid, peptide and/or protein fragment molecular weight range of from about 75-5,000 with an average molecular weight of from about 1,500-2,500. During processing, it is often desirable to membrane filter the hydrolysis products in order to segregate the peptides and/or protein fragments to achieve different molecular weight profiles. In one such preferred method, a hydrolyzed jojoba protein product of relatively high molecular weight is provided, with a molecular weight range for the respective peptides and/or fragments therein of from about 1,000-5,000 and with an average molecular weight of from about 3,000-4,000. Similarly, a lower molecular weight fraction (sometimes referred to as a jojoba amino acid fraction) is produced wherein the respective amino acids and peptides exhibit a molecular weight range of from about 75-1,000, with an average molecular weight of from about 100-300.
Although the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof can be produced as a dry powder, this is sometimes difficult and normally the product is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing jojoba protein or derivatives at a level of from about 18-35% by weight, more preferably from about 23-27% by weight.
As used herein, “derivatives” of hydrolyzed jojoba protein refers to changes in the structure of the individual amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments produced by amino acid addition, deletion, replacement, substitution and/or modifications; mutants produced by recombinant and/or DNA shuffling; quaternized species; and all other chemically synthesized/modified forms of the individual amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments which retain at least in part some activity of the initial hydrolyzed amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments. One particularly preferred class of hydrolyzed jojoba protein derivatives is the lipid derivatives, especially those synthesized using C12-C22 fatty acids.
The term “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” is intended to embrace and cover not only the amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein but also all “derivatives” as herein defined.
The jojoba products of the invention can be used to good effect in a variety of cosmetic formulations which include at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of humectants, emollients, conditioners, thickeners, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, pearl agents, buffering agents, slip agents, feel agents, anti-static agents, acidifiers, preservatives, film formers, plasticizers, setting agents and suspending agents (usually, each of the foregoing ingredients when used is present at a level of from about 0.05-10% by weight). An amount of hydrolyzed jojoba protein or derivative thereof is incorporated into this type of cosmetic formulation, usually at a level of from about 1-10% by weight, more preferably from about 3-8% by weight. Inasmuch as the preferred jojoba protein products are in the form of liquid dispersions, it is a simple matter to add the jojoba to the cosmetic formulations during preparation thereof. Generally, the formulation of the invention comprise from about 10-95% by weight water, more preferably from about 20-75% by weight water.
Among the cosmetic products which can benefit from incorporation of the jojoba products of the invention are those selected from the group consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. In products of these types, the shampoos and shampoo conditioners further comprise at least about 6% by weight detergent; the hairstyling gels further comprise a gel-forming polymer system; the hair conditioners further comprise at least about 0.3% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the hair reparatives further comprise at least about 2% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the bath and shower gels further comprise at least about 25% by weight surfactant; the skin lotions and creams further comprise at least about 2% by weight of a cream former; the sunscreen further comprising a sunblocking agent; and the shaving creams further comprising at least about 10% by weight detergent and having a basic pH.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 is a schematic flow diagram illustrating the steps involved in the preferred process for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT
The following examples set forth preferred procedures for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, and use thereof in cosmetic products. It is to be understood, however, that these examples are provided by way of illustration and nothing therein should be taken as a limitation upon the overall scope of the invention.
EXAMPLE 1
This example describes a preferred procedure for the preparation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, using defatted jojoba meal as a starting material. The meal is obtained from jojoba which has been conventionally press-treated to remove the jojoba oil, leaving the defatted meal. The meal had a protein content of 30.2% by weight, 38.3% by weight dietary fiber, 1.7% by weight residual oil, ash of 4.3% by weight, moisture of 5.6% by weight, with the remainder being insolubles. The following table sets forth the amino acid profile of the protein fraction of the meal.
TABLE 1
Ingredient
Amino Acid Profile
Aspartic Acid
2.82%
Threonine
1.41%
Serine
1.53%
Glutamic Acid
3.36%
Proline
1.44%
Glycine
2.45%
Alanine
1.19%
Cystine
0.80%
Valine
1.54%
Methionine
0.35%
Isoleucine
1.03%
Leucine
2.02%
Tyrosine
1.07%
Phenylalanine
1.23%
Histidine
0.61%
Lysine
1.45%
Arginine
1.95%
Tryptophan
0.32%
The hydrolysis method is schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, and was carried out as follows. First, 750 gallons of soft water was heated to 140° F. and placed in a reaction tank. 1,000 pounds of the above-described jojoba oil meal was added to the reaction tank with agitation to completely disperse the meal. At this point, 22 pounds of 50% NaOH solution was added to the reaction tank for 1 hour to solubilize the proteins and create the alkaline dispersion 10 of FIG. 1 .
In the next step, the protein slurry was treated with 15 pounds of protease enzyme (step 12 ), using a commercially available enzyme (Alcalase, Novo) and hydrolyzed for 2 hours with agitation. During this hydrolysis, the pH was maintained between 7.5-8.0 using 50% NaOH. A second dose of the Alcalase protease enzyme (15 pounds) was then added to the slurry followed by agitation for 2 hours. During this period, there was no pH adjustment.
In the next step 14 , the pH of the slurry was adjusted to 6.5 using lactic acid, whereupon a second protease treatment (step 16 ) was carried out. This treatment included addition of 10 pounds of a second protease enzyme (Flavorzyme, Novo) followed by agitation for 4 hours. Thereupon, 3 pounds of Dual Protease Enzyme (Enzyme Development Corp.) was dispersed in 1 gallon of tap water and added to the slurry followed by the addition of 10 pounds of Neutrase (Novo). The slurry was then agitated for an additional 2 hours to continue the hydrolysis process.
In step 18 , lactic acid was added to the slurry to lower the pH to 4.5, followed by the addition of 8 pounds sodium metabisulfite with agitation for 10 minutes. Next, in step 20 , the slurry was heated to 160° F. to deactivate all protease enzymes.
The slurry containing hydrolyzed jojoba proteins was then processed in a rotary vacuum filter (step 22 ) to remove insolubles, and the filtrate was clarified by passage through a packed-house filter unit (step 24 ).
The clarified filtrate from step 24 was then fed to a nanofiltration membrane system, in order to generate a permeate and a retentate having different molecular weight profiles (step 26 ) after the retentate reached about 31% by weight solids using a refractometer. The membrane system was selected so that the lower molecular weight permeate proteins were generally below a molecular weight of 1,000, whereas the retentate proteins had a molecular weight of above about 1,000.
The retentate fraction was first treated by the addition of preservatives (step 28 ), namely 1% by weight Germaben II and 0.3% by weight Dowicil 200. The retentate was then chilled to 34-35° F. and allowed to stand for 16-24 hours (step 30 ). The chilled retentate was then cold-filtered in a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness (step 32 ), and additional preservatives were added (15% extra Germaben II and Dowicil 200).
The resulting retentate was aged 1-2 weeks (step 34 ) filtered (step 36 ) and packed in aqueous liquid form in 5-gallon jugs or 55-gallon drums (step 38 ) as hydrolyzed jojoba protein 39 . This liquid contained about 10% by weight protein.
The permeate fraction was conventionally evaporated (step 40 ) to achieve a solids content of about 34% by weight, using a refractometer. Preservatives were then added (1% Germaben II and 0.3% Dowicil 200) followed by mixing for 1 hour (step 42 ). The retentate was then subjected to the same aging, filtration and packaging steps 34 , 36 and 38 as the retentate, to produce aqueous liquid jojoba amino acid product 44 . This liquid product contained about 4.5% by weight protein.
A molecular weight analysis of the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and amino acid products revealed that the higher molecular weight protein product was a mixture of peptides and/or protein fragments with a range of molecular weights of from about 1,000-5,000 and an average molecular weight of 3,500; the amino acid product was a mixture of amino acids and peptides with a range of molecular weights of from about 75-1,000, and average molecular weight of 200. In particular, the jojoba amino acid product was analyzed to contain (wb) 0.28% aspartic acid, 0.13% threonine, 0.15% serine, 0.38% glutamic acid, 0.09% proline, 0.17% glycine, 0.17% alanine, 0.03% cysteine, 0.14% valine, 0.04% methionine, 0.09% isoleucine, 0.17% leucine, <0.01% tyrosine, 0.13% phenylalanine, 0.02% histidine, 0.08% lysine, 0.11% arginine, and <0.01% tryptophan.
It will be appreciated that the two products developed using this process comprise peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturally occurring jojoba protein, and that the reference to “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and “jojoba amino acid” is a convenience, merely referring to the fact that the respective mixtures have different molecular weight profiles. In both cases, however, the products are “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and this term is used herein to refer to both of these products and for that matter any product containing amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturally occurring jojoba protein via hydrolysis.
EXAMPLE 2
In this example, a jojoba amino acid product is produced by acid hydrolysis of jojoba meal. In the process, 450 gallons of warm (160° F.) water is transferred to a homomixer tank, followed by the addition of 2 gallons of concentrated HCl (36%). The mixture is stirred and 950 pounds of jojoba meal is added, with continued stirring for 30 minutes. The acidified slurry is then transferred to a glass-lined reactor and 448 gallons of concentrated HCl (36%) is added to the reactor. The temperature of the mixture within the reactor is raised to 212-220° F. using a heat exchanger, followed by mixing for 24 hours. At the end of the 24 hour mixing period, the hydrolyzate is cooled to 120-140° F., and 50% NaOH solution is added to adjust the pH to 6.0-7.0. The neutralized hydrolyzate is then clarified using a rotary vacuum filter to remove solid particulates, and the clarified hydrolyzate is concentrated to the desired solids level (20-30%) in an evaporator.
Preservatives (1% Germaben and 0.3% Dowicil 200) are added. The product is then chilled at 34-35° F. for 16-24 hours. After chilling, the product is filtered using a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness. The product is then aged for 1-2 weeks, and a final filtration is carried out using a packed-house filter unit. The product is then packaged in suitable containers such as 5 gallon jugs or 55 gallon drums.
EXAMPLE 3
In this example, quaternized derivatives of hydrolyzed jojoba protein or jojoba amino acid are prepared. In the first step, 100 parts of the jojoba product (either hydrolyzed jojoba protein or hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid) are added to a reaction tank. The pH of the mixture is adjusted to 9.1-9.3 using 50% NaOH.
Seventeen parts by weight of 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (Quab 342, 40% active) and 6 parts by weight of tap water are mixed in a separate container, followed by 1.7 parts by weight of 50% NaOH with agitation. The reaction is allowed to proceed for 10 minutes, giving a final pH typically between 10-11 (a small amount of additional 50% NaOH was added if the pH fell below 10). Alternatives to the Quab 342 product are 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyloctadecylammonium chloride (Quab 426) or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride (Quat 188) to produce other derivatives. The solution in the separate container is then added to the pH-adjusted jojoba mixture, followed by agitation for 16-24 hours. The pH of the solution is then adjusted 4.4-4.6 using lactic acid (88%) solution. The product is then filtered using a packed-house filter unit to remove particulates, followed by packaging.
Chemically, the finished product is laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or laurdimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba amino acid). If Quab 426 is used, the product is steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or steardimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba amino acid). If Quat 188 is used, the product is called hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or hydroxypropyl trimonium jojoba amino acid).
EXAMPLE 4
The following products were produced using the hydrolyzedjojoba protein products 39 and 44 described in Example 1.
Moisturizing Body Wash
The following ingredients were used to prepare the body wash.
TABLE 2
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Kessco EGMS 70
Glycol Stearate
Emulsifier
1.50
A
Versene NA2
Disodium EDTA
Chelation
0.05
A
Stepanol CS-230
Sodium Laureth
Cleaning
20.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
5.00
Betain
B
Macamide C
Cocamide
Foam Booster
1.00
DEA
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative/
5.00
Protein
Moisturizer
B
Chamomile Ex-
Chamomile Extract
Soothing
0.07
tract (Active
Organic)
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
B
Glycerox HE
Peg-7 Glyceryl
Humectant
0.50
Cocoate
B
Aqua Pro II ™
Wheat Germ Oil
Anti-oxidant
.50
WGO
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The product was prepared by placing an amount of distilled water in a primary tank and heating the water to 75° C., whereupon the remaining ingredients of Phase A. were added with mixing. The mixture was then cooled to 45° C. and the ingredients of Phases B and C were added with adequate mixing. The pH of the mixture was then adjusted using 25% citric acid, and the viscosity was adjusted using a minor amount of 10% NaCl solution.
Hair Shampoo
The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.
TABLE 3
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Versene NA2
Disodium EDTA
Chelation
0.05
A
Stepanol CS-230
Sodium Laureth
Cleaning
20.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
3.00
Betain
B
Macamide C
Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
1.00
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative/
5.00
Protein
Moisturizer
B
Chamomile Ex-
Chamomile Extract
Soothing
0.07
tract (Active
Organic)
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
Distilled water was placed in a primary tank and the remaining ingredients of Phase A were added, followed by those of Phases B and C, with mixing. pH was adjusted using 25% citric acid, and viscosity was adjusted with 10% NaCl solution.
Ultra Shampoo
The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.
TABLE 4
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Merquat 550
Polyquaternium-7
Film Former
0.05
A
Stepanol WAC
Sodium Lauryl
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Stepanol CS-230
Sodium Laureth
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
3.00
Betain
B
Mackamide C
Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
1.00
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed
Reparative/
5.50
Jojoba Protein
Substantivity
B
Chamomile Ex-
Chamomile Ex-
Soothing
0.07
tract (Active
tract
Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The ultra shampoo was prepared using the same technique for the above-described hair shampoo.
Moisturizing Shampoo
The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.
TABLE 5
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Merquat 550
Polyquaternium-7
Film Former
0.05
A
Stepanol WAC
Sodium Lauryl
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Stepanol CS-23
Sodium Laureth
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
3.00
Betain
B
Mackamide C
Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
1.00
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed
Reparative/
5.50
Jojoba Protein
Moisturizer
B
Chamomile Extract
Chamomile Ex-
Soothing
0.07
(Active Organic)
tract
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.03
(Active Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
B
Licorice Extract
Licorice Extract
Astringent
0.03
(Active Organic)
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The moisturizing shampoo was prepared using the same technique for the above-described hair shampoo.
Hand Lotion
The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand lotion.
TABLE 6
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Glycerin
Glycerin
Humectant
1.0
B
Triple Press Stearic
Stepan DGS SE
Emulsifier
2.00
Acid
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
1.50
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Sterate
Emolliency
1.50
B
Shea Butter
Shea Butter
Emollient
0.05
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
0.80
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
0.80
B
Mineral Oil
Crystosol NF 90
Emollient
0.50
C
Skin-Flow C ™
Wheat Starch
Silky Feel
6.00
Modified
D
Japanese Green Tea
Green Tea Extract
Astringent
0.05
Extract (Active
Organic)
D
Goldenrod Extract
Goldenrod Extract
Astringent
0.05
(Active Organic)
D
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
D
Yucca Extract
Yucca Extract
Stimulant
0.03
(Active Organic)
E
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Moisturizer/
5.00
Amino Acid
Anti-Wrinkle
E
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water was placed in a mixing tank along with the glycerine, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A at 75° C. and good agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 65° C. and the ingredient of Phase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were added in the listed order. The mixture was then cooled to 35° C. and the jojoba amino acid product 44 was added along with preservative.
Moisturizing Hand Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand cream.
TABLE 7
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
1.0
A
Completech
Milk Protein
Skin Feel
0.50
MBAC-DS
B
Stepan DGS SE
Triple Press
Emulsifier
3.00
Stearic Acid
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl
Emulsifier
1.75
Stearate
B
Shea Butter
Shea Butter
Emollient
0.16
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl
Emollient
1.00
Myristate
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl
Emollient
1.00
Palmitate
B
Crystosol NF 90
Mineral Oil
Emollient
0.50
C
Skin-Flow C ™
Wheat Starch
Silky Feel
6.64
Modified
D
Japanese Green Tea
Green Tea
Astringent
0.05
Extract (Active
Extract
Organic)
D
Goldenrod Extract
Goldenrod
Astringent
0.05
(Active Organic)
Extract
D
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
D
Yucca Extract
Yucca Extract
Stimulant
0.03
(Active Organic)
E
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed
Anti-Wrinkle/
5.00
Jojoba Amino
Moisturizer
Acid
E
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water and other ingredients of Phase A were placed in a primary tank and heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients at 75° C. with good agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool and at 50-55° C. the ingredient of Phase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining in the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were then added in the order listed. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 35° C., whereupon the jojoba amino acid product and preservative were added.
Moisturizing Foot Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the foot cream.
TABLE 8
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Glycerin USP
Glycerin
Humectant
0.5
A
TEA 99%
Triethanolamine
pH adjuster
QS
A
Milk Protein
Milk Glyceride
Film forming
0.50
A
Cosmogel-40
Wheat Starch
Thickener
1.0
B
Lipocol S
Stearic Acid
Emulsifier
3.00
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier
1.75
B
Aqua Pro II ™
Wheat Germ Oil
Anti-Oxidant
0.50
WGO
B
Cocobutter
Cocobutter
Emollient
.20
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
.50
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
.50
C
Skin-Flow C ™
Modified Wheat
Skin Feel
2.00
Starch
D
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
D
Chamomile Extract
Chamomile Extract
Astringent
0.05
D
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.05
D
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Moisturizer
5.00
Protein
D
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Moisturizer
5.00
Amino Acid
Amino Acid
D
Menthyl Crystal
Menthyl Crystal
Cooling
0.20
D
Peppermint Oil
Peppermint Oil
Refresher
1.00
D
Preservative
Preservative
QS
QS
E
Yellow #5
FD&C Yellow #5
QS
QS
E
Blue #1
FD&C Blue #1
QS
QS
Distilled water was metered into a primary tank, followed by mixing in Cosmogel-40 with good agitation at 40° C. When the Cosmogel-40 was in solution, the remaining Phase A ingredients were added with heating to 75° C. All of the ingredients in Phase B were weighed in another tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A with good agitation, and when the temperature reached 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C wheat starch product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The Phase B ingredients were then added in the listed order, followed by color addition and pH adjustment to 5.5-6.5.
Moisturizing Foundation
The following ingredients were used to prepare the foundation.
TABLE 9
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
TEA
Triethanolamine
Humectant
0.5
A
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
QS
A
Carbomer-940
Carbomer
Viscosity
0.20
A
Veegum
Magnesium Alumi-
Viscosity
0.30
num Silicate
B
Steric Acid
Triple Press Stearic
Emulsifier
1.00
Acid
B
Glucamate
PEG-20 Dimethyl
Conditioning
1.00
SSE-20
Glucose
Sesqusterate
B
Ritacol 1000
Sterate-20
Emulsifier
0.80
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
0.50
B
Lipocol SC-20
Ceteth-20
Emulsifier
0.50
B
Glucate SS
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
.50
B
Orgasol 2002 Ex
Nylon-12
Biner
3.50
C
Isopar-G
C10-11 Isoparaffin
Solvent
0.20
D
Cab-O-Sil
Silica Dimethyl
Bulking
1.00
Siliylate
D
Dow Corning 244
Cyclomethicone
Feel
15.00
E
Eusolex T-200
Titanium Dioxide
UV Protection
2.00
E
Iron Oxide
Iron Oxide Yellow
Color
0.40
Yellow
E
Iron Oxide Black
Iron Oxide Black
Color
0.40
E
Iron Oxide Red
Iron Oxide Red
Color
0.30
F
Tween-20
Polysorbate-20
Surfactant
1.00
F
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
2.00
Protein
F
Jojoba Amino
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
2.00
Acid
Amino Acid
G
Skin Flow-C ™
Modified Wheat
Silky Feel
2.00
Starch
H
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
I
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The ingredients of Phase A were heated to 75° C., and the ingredients of Phase E were passed through a colloid mill with some propylene glycol and recirculation until the pigments were evenly dispersed. The colloid mill was rinsed with the Phase C ingredient and mixed using a lightnin mixer with heating to 75° C. Phase B components were premixed and heated to 75° C., and added to the main batch. The Phase G ingredient was then sprinkled into the main batch premix Phase D with heating to 65° C. At 40° C., the ingredients of Phase F were added to the main batch together with preservative and fragrance.
Gentle Conditioning Agent
The following ingredients were used to prepare the conditioning agent.
TABLE 10
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Aqua Pro II ™ QWt
Hydroxypropyl-
Conditioning
2.00
trimonium Hydro-
lyzed Wheat Protein
A
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.50
A
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.00
(Lipo)
A
Lipocol C-20
Ceteth-20
Emulsifier
2.50
A
Beeswax White
Beeswax
Emulsifier
0.25
A
Dimethicone
Dow Corning 200
Feel
1.00
Fluid
A
Emulsifying Wax
Stearyl Alcohol/
Emulsifier
1.50
Ceterareth-20
B
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
3.00
Amino Acid
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
3.00
Protein
B
Chamomile Extract
Chamomile Extract
Soothing
0.05
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.08
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.03
B
Licorice Extract
Licorice Extract
Astringent
0.08
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
Distilled water added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients of Phase A in the order listed, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. The mixture was then cooled to 33° C., and the Phase B and C ingredients were added. The pH was adjusted to 3.0 with 25% citric acid, and fragrance and preservative were added.
Moisturizing Baby Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the baby cream.
TABLE 11
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Glycerin
Glycerin USP
Humectant
2.50
B
Lipocol S
Stearic Acid
Emulsifier
3.00
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.50
B
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Sterate
Emulsifier
2.50
B
Dow Corning 200
Dimethicone
Film Former
1.00
Fluid
B
Aqua Pro ™ II WGO
Wheat Germ Oil
Anti-Oxidant
0.50
C
Skin-Flow-C ™
Modified Wheat
Silky Feel/
6.50
Starch
Thickener
D
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed
Moisturizer/
5.00
Jojoba Protein
Anti-Wrinkle
F
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed
Moisturizer/
5.00
Jojoba Amino
Anti-Wrinkle
Acid
H
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
Distilled water was metered into a primary tank and the glycerine was added with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients with good agitation. When the temperature reached 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was shifted into the batch, making sure there were no lumps or powder. The Phase D ingredients were added, and at 35° C., the preservative was added with pH adjustment to 3.5-4.5.
Anti-Wrinkle Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the anti-wrinkle cream.
TABLE 12
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Glycerin
Glycerin USP
Humectant
1.0
A
Milk Protein
Completech MBAC-
Skin Feel
0.50
DS
B
Stepan DGS SE
Triple Press Stearic
Emulsifier
3.00
Acid
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier
1.75
B
Promulgin D
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
1.00
Ceteareth-20
B
Coco Butter
Coco Butter
Emollient
0.50
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
1.50
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
1.50
B
Crystisik NF 90
Mineral Oil
Emollient
0.50
C
Skin-Flow-C ™
Wheat Starch Modi-
Silky Feel
6.00
fied
F
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
5.00
Protein
F
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
5.00
Amino Acid
H
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water was added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients of Phase A, with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B was added to Phase A at 75° C. with good agitation. At 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining. When the temperature reached 35° C., the jojoba amino acid and hydrolyzed jojoba protein were added, together with the preservative.
Hair Styling Gel
The following ingredients were used to prepare the hair styling gel.
TABLE 13
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Deionized Water
Aqua
QS
A
Luviskol K30
PVPethanolamine
Fixative
1.80
A
TEA (25%)
Triethanolamine
pH Adjuster
QS
A
Carbomer-940
Carbopol
Thickener
1.00
A
Glucame-E20
Methyl Gluceth-20
Film Former
0.50
A
Versene NA2
Disodium EDTA
Chelation
0.50
B
Tween-20
Polysorbate-20
Cleansing
1.50
B
Uvasorb S5
Benzophenone-4
UV Protection
0.04
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
3.00
Protein
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The Carbomer was added in 25% water followed by mixing in of Phase A ingredients in order. Next, the Phase B ingredients were added with good agitation, followed by addition of preservative and fragrance. The pH of the product was 5.5.
Professional Relaxer
The following ingredients were used to prepare the professional relaxer.
TABLE 14
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Glycerin
Glycerin USP
Humectant
6.00
A
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative/
5.00
Protein
Moisturizer
B
Tween-60
Polysorbate-60
Cleanser
12.00
B
Crystosol NF 90
Mineral Oil
Emollient
14.00
B
Emery 1650
Lanoline
Emollient
1.00
B
Amerchol C
Petrolatum
Emollient
10.00
B
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.00
C
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Hydroxide
pH Adjuster
QS
(25%)
The Phase A ingredients and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75° C. and mixed with good agitation. The Phase C ingredient was then add at 50-55° C. The product had a pH of 11.75-12.5.
Super Hair Reparative
The following ingredients were used to prepare the super hair reparative
TABLE 15
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
5.00
Protein
B
Aqua Pro ™ II
Hydroxypropyl
Conditioning
3.00
QWs
Steryldimonium
B
Jojoba Amino
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
1.00
Acid
Amino Acid
C
Salcare SC-96
Polyquaternium-37 and
Emulsifier
4.50
Propylene
Glycol Dicapry-
late/Dicaprate and
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
D
Tween-20
Polysorbate-20
Cleanser
1.0
D
Fragrance
Fragrance
Fragrance
0.20
E
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water was metered into a tank, followed by the addition of the Phase B ingredients with good agitation. The Phase C ingredient was then added followed by the ingredients of Phase D and E. The pH of the product was adjusted to 3.5-4.5 with 25% citric acid.
Face Mask
The following ingredients were used to prepare the face mask.
TABLE 16
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
1.50
B
Lipocol GMS-450
Glyceryl Sterate
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.50
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
C
Skin-Flow-C ™
Wheat Starch
Skin Feel
2.00
Modified
D
Kaoline
Kaoline Colloidal
Firming
10.00
NF
D
Bentonite
Bentonite 670
Firming
8.00
E
Aqua Pro II ™ CO
Colloidal Oat
Anti-Wrinkle
5.00
E
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
3.00
Protein
E
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
3.00
Amino Acid
F
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The Phase A and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75° C., and Phase B was added to Phase A with mixing. When the mixture reached 65° C., the Phase C ingredient was added with good mixing. Thereafter, the Phase D ingredients were added and the mixture was cooled to 35° C., whereupon the Phase E ingredients were added along with the preservative.
1.PublishNumber: US-6800736-B2
2.Date Publish: 20041005
3.Inventor: HOWARD MARK A.
MANINGAT CLODUALDO C.
BASSI SUKH
MAKWANA DHARMEN
ROHDE SORAYA
CARSON JOHN
4.Inventor Harmonized: HOWARD MARK A(US)
MANINGAT CLODUALDO C(US)
BASSI SUKH(US)
MAKWANA DHARMEN(US)
ROHDE SORAYA(US)
CARSON JOHN(US)
5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)Hydrolyzed jojoba protein is provided which can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations to enhance the desirable properties thereof. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein. Cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, bath and shower gels, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens can be improved by incorporation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein therein.
7.Description:
(en)CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION
This is a continuation of application Ser. No. 10/057,214 filed Jan. 24, 2002 now U.S. Pat. No. 6,716,599 which is a continuation of 09/841,552 filed Apr. 23, 2001, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,171.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention is broadly concerned with hydrolyzed jojoba protein and uses thereof, particularly in connection with cosmetic products such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. More particularly, it is concerned with hydrolyzed jojoba protein which is preferably in the form of a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein; such mixtures, when used in cosmetic products provide enhanced properties.
2. Description of the Prior Art
Jojoba is a dioecious wind-pollinated shrub, reaching a height of 1-5 meters and having a long life span (100-200 years). Jojoba is cultivated mainly in Arizona, Northern Mexico, Argentina and Israel. Genetic variability in morphology, anatomy and physiology within the species is very large and enable selection of clones for high yield and other agricultural attributes. Leaves are xerophytic with a thick cuticle, sunken stomata. They contain special tissue with a high concentration of phenol compounds. Flowers are apetalous: the female ones are usually solitary, one per two nodes although flowers every node or in clusters are not rare. The male flowers are clustered. Flower buds form in the axiles of leaves solely on the new vegetative growth occurring during the warm seasons under favorable temperatures and water regime. New flower buds are dormant and will open only after a cool season with enough cold units for the fulfillment of their chilling requirements. Anthesis occurs in the spring when the soil and air temperature rise to above 15° C. Severe water stress prevents opening of flowers. The jojoba fruit is a capsule containing one to three dark brown seeds that normally range in their dry weight between 0.5-1.1 g and contains 44-56% wax. Fruits ripen during the spring and early summer and seeds fall to the ground in late summer.
Indigenous Amerinds in the Sonora and Baja, Calif. used jojoba seed and oil for cooking, hair care, and for treatments of many medical problems such as poison ivy, sores, wounds, colds, cancer and kidney malfunction. The oil is extracted from jojoba seed by conventional screw pressing techniques, leaving a residual defatted dry material which is high in native jojoba protein (typically on the order of 25-35% by weight protein).
Jojoba oil is a light yellow liquid at room temperature and is made up of straight-chain esters of mono-unsaturated long chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols and has an average total carbon chain length of 42 carbons. The product may be isomerized, hydrogenated, sulfurized, chlorinated or transesterified, and has a wide range of industrial uses, mainly in cosmetics in which it is incorporated in formulations for skin care preparations such as lotions, moisturizers, massage oils, creams, hair care products, lipsticks, makeups and nail products. Other potential uses include pharmaceuticals and as extenders for plastics, printers inks, gear-oil additives and lubricants.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a new form of jojoba protein, namely hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof, as well as uses of such protein products in cosmetic formulations. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof in accordance with the invention comprise a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of the naturally occurring jojoba protein. Such hydrolysis is preferably carried out enzymatically, but if desired acid hydrolysis can also be employed.
In more detail, the hydrolyzed jojoba protein is typically in the form of a mixture having an amino acid, peptide and/or protein fragment molecular weight range of from about 75-5,000 with an average molecular weight of from about 1,500-2,500. During processing, it is often desirable to membrane filter the hydrolysis products in order to segregate the peptides and/or protein fragments to achieve different molecular weight profiles. In one such preferred method, a hydrolyzed jojoba protein product of relatively high molecular weight is provided, with a molecular weight range for the respective peptides and/or fragments therein of from about 1,000-5,000 and with an average molecular weight of from about 3,000-4,000. Similarly, a lower molecular weight fraction (sometimes referred to as a jojoba amino acid fraction) is produced wherein the respective amino acids and peptides exhibit a molecular weight range of from about 75-1,000, with an average molecular weight of from about 100-300.
Although the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof can be produced as a dry powder, this is sometimes difficult and normally the product is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing jojoba protein or derivatives at a level of from about 18-35% by weight, more preferably from about 23-27% by weight.
As used herein, “derivatives” of hydrolyzed jojoba protein refers to changes in the structure of the individual amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments produced by amino acid addition, deletion, replacement, substitution and/or modifications; mutants produced by recombinant and/or DNA shuffling; quaternized species; and all other chemically synthesized/modified forms of the individual amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments which retain at least in part some activity of the initial hydrolyzed amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments. One particularly preferred class of hydrolyzed jojoba protein derivatives is the lipid derivatives, especially those synthesized using C12-C22 fatty acids.
The term “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” is intended to embrace and cover not only the amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein but also all “derivatives” as herein defined.
The jojoba products of the invention can be used to good effect in a variety of cosmetic formulations which include at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of humectants, emollients, conditioners, thickeners, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, pearl agents, buffering agents, slip agents, feel agents, anti-static agents, acidifiers, preservatives, film formers, plasticizers, setting agents and suspending agents (usually, each of the foregoing ingredients when used is present at a level of from about 0.05-10% by weight). An amount of hydrolyzed jojoba protein or derivative thereof is incorporated into this type of cosmetic formulation, usually at a level of from about 1-10% by weight, more preferably from about 3-8% by weight. Inasmuch as the preferred jojoba protein products are in the form of liquid dispersions, it is a simple matter to add the jojoba to the cosmetic formulations during preparation thereof. Generally, the formulation of the invention comprise from about 10-95% by weight water, more preferably from about 20-75% by weight water.
Among the cosmetic products which can benefit from incorporation of the jojoba products of the invention are those selected from the group consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. In products of these types, the shampoos and shampoo conditioners further comprise at least about 6% by weight detergent; the hairstyling gels further comprise a gel-forming polymer system; the hair conditioners further comprise at least about 0.3% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the hair reparatives further comprise at least about 2% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the bath and shower gels further comprise at least about 25% by weight surfactant; the skin lotions and creams further comprise at least about 2% by weight of a cream former; the sunscreen further comprising a sunblocking agent; and the shaving creams further comprising at least about 10% by weight detergent and having a basic pH.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 is a schematic flow diagram illustrating the steps involved in the preferred process for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT
The following examples set forth preferred procedures for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, and use thereof in cosmetic products. It is to be understood, however, that these examples are provided by way of illustration and nothing therein should be taken as a limitation upon the overall scope of the invention.
EXAMPLE 1
This example describes a preferred procedure for the preparation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, using defatted jojoba meal as a starting material. The meal is obtained from jojoba which has been conventionally press-treated to remove the jojoba oil, leaving the defatted meal. The meal had a protein content of 30.2% by weight, 38.3% by weight dietary fiber, 1.7% by weight residual oil, ash of 4.3% by weight, moisture of 5.6% by weight, with the remainder being insolubles. The following table sets forth the amino acid profile of the protein fraction of the meal.
TABLE 1
Ingredient
Amino Acid Profile
Aspartic Acid
2.82%
Threonine
1.41%
Serine
1.53%
Glutamic Acid
3.36%
Proline
1.44%
Glycine
2.45%
Alanine
1.19%
Cystine
0.80%
Valine
1.54%
Methionine
0.35%
Isoleucine
1.03%
Leucine
2.02%
Tyrosine
1.07%
Phenylalanine
1.23%
Histidine
0.61%
Lysine
1.45%
Arginine
1.95%
Tryptophan
0.32%
The hydrolysis method is schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, and was carried out as follows. First, 750 gallons of soft water was heated to 140° F. and placed in a reaction tank. 1,000 pounds of the above-described jojoba oil meal was added to the reaction tank with agitation to completely disperse the meal. At this point, 22 pounds of 50% NaOH solution was added to the reaction tank for 1 hour to solubilize the proteins and create the alkaline dispersion 10 of FIG. 1 .
In the next step, the protein slurry was treated with 15 pounds of protease enzyme (step 12 ), using a commercially available enzyme (Alcalase, Novo) and hydrolyzed for 2 hours with agitation. During this hydrolysis, the pH was maintained between 7.5-8.0 using 50% NaOH. A second dose of the Alcalase protease enzyme (15 pounds) was then added to the slurry followed by agitation for 2 hours. During this period, there was no pH adjustment.
In the next step 14 , the pH of the slurry was adjusted to 6.5 using lactic acid, whereupon a second protease treatment (step 16 ) was carried out. This treatment included addition of 10 pounds of a second protease enzyme (Flavorzyme, Novo) followed by agitation for 4 hours. Thereupon, 3 pounds of Dual Protease Enzyme (Enzyme Development Corp.) was dispersed in 1 gallon of tap water and added to the slurry followed by the addition of 10 pounds of Neutrase (Novo). The slurry was then agitated for an additional 2 hours to continue the hydrolysis process.
In step 18 , lactic acid was added to the slurry to lower the pH to 4.5, followed by the addition of 8 pounds sodium metabisulfite with agitation for 10 minutes. Next, in step 20 , the slurry was heated to 160° F. to deactivate all protease enzymes.
The slurry containing hydrolyzed jojoba proteins was then processed in a rotary vacuum filter (step 22 ) to remove insolubles, and the filtrate was clarified by passage through a packed-house filter unit (step 24 ).
The clarified filtrate from step 24 was then fed to a nanofiltration membrane system, in order to generate a permeate and a retentate having different molecular weight profiles (step 26 ) after the retentate reached about 31% by weight solids using a refractometer. The membrane system was selected so that the lower molecular weight permeate proteins were generally below a molecular weight of 1,000, whereas the retentate proteins had a molecular weight of above about 1,000.
The retentate fraction was first treated by the addition of preservatives (step 28 ), namely 1% by weight Germaben II and 0.3% by weight Dowicil 200. The retentate was then chilled to 34-35° F. and allowed to stand for 16-24 hours (step 30 ). The chilled retentate was then cold-filtered in a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness (step 32 ), and additional preservatives were added (15% extra Germaben II and Dowicil 200).
The resulting retentate was aged 1-2 weeks (step 34 ) filtered (step 36 ) and packed in aqueous liquid form in 5-gallon jugs or 55-gallon drums (step 38 ) as hydrolyzed jojoba protein 39 . This liquid contained about 10% by weight protein.
The permeate fraction was conventionally evaporated (step 40 ) to achieve a solids content of about 34% by weight, using a refractometer. Preservatives were then added (1% Germaben II and 0.3% Dowicil 200) followed by mixing for 1 hour (step 42 ). The retentate was then subjected to the same aging, filtration and packaging steps 34 , 36 and 38 as the retentate, to produce aqueous liquid jojoba amino acid product 44 . This liquid product contained about 4.5% by weight protein.
A molecular weight analysis of the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and amino acid products revealed that the higher molecular weight protein product was a mixture of peptides and/or protein fragments with a range of molecular weights of from about 1,000-5,000 and an average molecular weight of 3,500; the amino acid product was a mixture of amino acids and peptides with a range of molecular weights of from about 75-1,000, and average molecular weight of 200. In particular, the jojoba amino acid product was analyzed to contain (wb) 0.28% aspartic acid, 0.13% threonine, 0.15% serine, 0.38% glutamic acid, 0.09% proline, 0.17% glycine, 0.17% alanine, 0.03% cysteine, 0.14% valine, 0.04% methionine, 0.09% isoleucine, 0.17% leucine, <0.01% tyrosine, 0.13% phenylalanine, 0.02% histidine, 0.08% lysine, 0.11% arginine, and <0.01% tryptophan.
It will be appreciated that the two products developed using this process comprise peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturally occurring jojoba protein, and that the reference to “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and “jojoba amino acid” is a convenience, merely referring to the fact that the respective mixtures have different molecular weight profiles. In both cases, however, the products are “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and this term is used herein to refer to both of these products and for that matter any product containing amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturally occurring jojoba protein via hydrolysis.
EXAMPLE 2
In this example, a jojoba amino acid product is produced by acid hydrolysis of jojoba meal. In the process, 450 gallons of warm (160° F.) water is transferred to a homomixer tank, followed by the addition of 2 gallons of concentrated HCl (36%). The mixture is stirred and 950 pounds of jojoba meal is added, with continued stirring for 30 minutes. The acidified slurry is then transferred to a glass-lined reactor and 448 gallons of concentrated HCl (36%) is added to the reactor. The temperature of the mixture within the reactor is raised to 212-220° F. using a heat exchanger, followed by mixing for 24 hours. At the end of the 24 hour mixing period, the hydrolyzate is cooled to 120-140° F., and 50% NaOH solution is added to adjust the pH to 6.0-7.0. The neutralized hydrolyzate is then clarified using a rotary vacuum filter to remove solid particulates, and the clarified hydrolyzate is concentrated to the desired solids level (20-30%) in an evaporator.
Preservatives (1% Germaben and 0.3% Dowicil 200) are added. The product is then chilled at 34-35° F. for 16-24 hours. After chilling, the product is filtered using a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness. The product is then aged for 1-2 weeks, and a final filtration is carried out using a packed-house filter unit. The product is then packaged in suitable containers such as 5 gallon jugs or 55 gallon drums.
EXAMPLE 3
In this example, quaternized derivatives of hydrolyzed jojoba protein or jojoba amino acid are prepared. In the first step, 100 parts of the jojoba product (either hydrolyzed jojoba protein or hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid) are added to a reaction tank. The pH of the mixture is adjusted to 9.1-9.3 using 50% NaOH.
Seventeen parts by weight of 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (Quab 342, 40% active) and 6 parts by weight of tap water are mixed in a separate container, followed by 1.7 parts by weight of 50% NaOH with agitation. The reaction is allowed to proceed for 10 minutes, giving a final pH typically between 10-11 (a small amount of additional 50% NaOH was added if the pH fell below 10). Alternatives to the Quab 342 product are 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyloctadecylammonium chloride (Quab 426) or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride (Quat 188) to produce other derivatives. The solution in the separate container is then added to the pH-adjusted jojoba mixture, followed by agitation for 16-24 hours. The pH of the solution is then adjusted 4.4-4.6 using lactic acid (88%) solution. The product is then filtered using a packed-house filter unit to remove particulates, followed by packaging.
Chemically, the finished product is laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or laurdimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba amino acid). If Quab 426 is used, the product is steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or steardimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba amino acid). If Quat 188 is used, the product is called hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or hydroxypropyl trimonium jojoba amino acid).
EXAMPLE 4
The following products were produced using the hydrolyzedjojoba protein products 39 and 44 described in Example 1.
Moisturizing Body Wash
The following ingredients were used to prepare the body wash.
TABLE 2
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Kessco EGMS 70
Glycol Stearate
Emulsifier
1.50
A
Versene NA2
Disodium EDTA
Chelation
0.05
A
Stepanol CS-230
Sodium Laureth
Cleaning
20.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
5.00
Betain
B
Macamide C
Cocamide
Foam Booster
1.00
DEA
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative/
5.00
Protein
Moisturizer
B
Chamomile Ex-
Chamomile Extract
Soothing
0.07
tract (Active
Organic)
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
B
Glycerox HE
Peg-7 Glyceryl
Humectant
0.50
Cocoate
B
Aqua Pro II ™
Wheat Germ Oil
Anti-oxidant
.50
WGO
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The product was prepared by placing an amount of distilled water in a primary tank and heating the water to 75° C., whereupon the remaining ingredients of Phase A. were added with mixing. The mixture was then cooled to 45° C. and the ingredients of Phases B and C were added with adequate mixing. The pH of the mixture was then adjusted using 25% citric acid, and the viscosity was adjusted using a minor amount of 10% NaCl solution.
Hair Shampoo
The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.
TABLE 3
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Versene NA2
Disodium EDTA
Chelation
0.05
A
Stepanol CS-230
Sodium Laureth
Cleaning
20.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
3.00
Betain
B
Macamide C
Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
1.00
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative/
5.00
Protein
Moisturizer
B
Chamomile Ex-
Chamomile Extract
Soothing
0.07
tract (Active
Organic)
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
Distilled water was placed in a primary tank and the remaining ingredients of Phase A were added, followed by those of Phases B and C, with mixing. pH was adjusted using 25% citric acid, and viscosity was adjusted with 10% NaCl solution.
Ultra Shampoo
The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.
TABLE 4
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Merquat 550
Polyquaternium-7
Film Former
0.05
A
Stepanol WAC
Sodium Lauryl
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Stepanol CS-230
Sodium Laureth
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
3.00
Betain
B
Mackamide C
Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
1.00
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed
Reparative/
5.50
Jojoba Protein
Substantivity
B
Chamomile Ex-
Chamomile Ex-
Soothing
0.07
tract (Active
tract
Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The ultra shampoo was prepared using the same technique for the above-described hair shampoo.
Moisturizing Shampoo
The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.
TABLE 5
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Merquat 550
Polyquaternium-7
Film Former
0.05
A
Stepanol WAC
Sodium Lauryl
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Stepanol CS-23
Sodium Laureth
Cleansing
10.00
Sulfate
A
Amphosol CA
Cocamidopropyl
Foam Booster
3.00
Betain
B
Mackamide C
Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
1.00
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed
Reparative/
5.50
Jojoba Protein
Moisturizer
B
Chamomile Extract
Chamomile Ex-
Soothing
0.07
(Active Organic)
tract
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.03
(Active Organic)
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
B
Licorice Extract
Licorice Extract
Astringent
0.03
(Active Organic)
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The moisturizing shampoo was prepared using the same technique for the above-described hair shampoo.
Hand Lotion
The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand lotion.
TABLE 6
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Glycerin
Glycerin
Humectant
1.0
B
Triple Press Stearic
Stepan DGS SE
Emulsifier
2.00
Acid
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
1.50
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Sterate
Emolliency
1.50
B
Shea Butter
Shea Butter
Emollient
0.05
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
0.80
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
0.80
B
Mineral Oil
Crystosol NF 90
Emollient
0.50
C
Skin-Flow C ™
Wheat Starch
Silky Feel
6.00
Modified
D
Japanese Green Tea
Green Tea Extract
Astringent
0.05
Extract (Active
Organic)
D
Goldenrod Extract
Goldenrod Extract
Astringent
0.05
(Active Organic)
D
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
D
Yucca Extract
Yucca Extract
Stimulant
0.03
(Active Organic)
E
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Moisturizer/
5.00
Amino Acid
Anti-Wrinkle
E
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water was placed in a mixing tank along with the glycerine, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A at 75° C. and good agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 65° C. and the ingredient of Phase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were added in the listed order. The mixture was then cooled to 35° C. and the jojoba amino acid product 44 was added along with preservative.
Moisturizing Hand Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand cream.
TABLE 7
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
1.0
A
Completech
Milk Protein
Skin Feel
0.50
MBAC-DS
B
Stepan DGS SE
Triple Press
Emulsifier
3.00
Stearic Acid
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl
Emulsifier
1.75
Stearate
B
Shea Butter
Shea Butter
Emollient
0.16
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl
Emollient
1.00
Myristate
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl
Emollient
1.00
Palmitate
B
Crystosol NF 90
Mineral Oil
Emollient
0.50
C
Skin-Flow C ™
Wheat Starch
Silky Feel
6.64
Modified
D
Japanese Green Tea
Green Tea
Astringent
0.05
Extract (Active
Extract
Organic)
D
Goldenrod Extract
Goldenrod
Astringent
0.05
(Active Organic)
Extract
D
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Healing
0.05
(Active Organic)
D
Yucca Extract
Yucca Extract
Stimulant
0.03
(Active Organic)
E
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed
Anti-Wrinkle/
5.00
Jojoba Amino
Moisturizer
Acid
E
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water and other ingredients of Phase A were placed in a primary tank and heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients at 75° C. with good agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool and at 50-55° C. the ingredient of Phase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining in the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were then added in the order listed. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 35° C., whereupon the jojoba amino acid product and preservative were added.
Moisturizing Foot Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the foot cream.
TABLE 8
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Glycerin USP
Glycerin
Humectant
0.5
A
TEA 99%
Triethanolamine
pH adjuster
QS
A
Milk Protein
Milk Glyceride
Film forming
0.50
A
Cosmogel-40
Wheat Starch
Thickener
1.0
B
Lipocol S
Stearic Acid
Emulsifier
3.00
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier
1.75
B
Aqua Pro II ™
Wheat Germ Oil
Anti-Oxidant
0.50
WGO
B
Cocobutter
Cocobutter
Emollient
.20
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
.50
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
.50
C
Skin-Flow C ™
Modified Wheat
Skin Feel
2.00
Starch
D
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.05
D
Chamomile Extract
Chamomile Extract
Astringent
0.05
D
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.05
D
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Moisturizer
5.00
Protein
D
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Moisturizer
5.00
Amino Acid
Amino Acid
D
Menthyl Crystal
Menthyl Crystal
Cooling
0.20
D
Peppermint Oil
Peppermint Oil
Refresher
1.00
D
Preservative
Preservative
QS
QS
E
Yellow #5
FD&C Yellow #5
QS
QS
E
Blue #1
FD&C Blue #1
QS
QS
Distilled water was metered into a primary tank, followed by mixing in Cosmogel-40 with good agitation at 40° C. When the Cosmogel-40 was in solution, the remaining Phase A ingredients were added with heating to 75° C. All of the ingredients in Phase B were weighed in another tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A with good agitation, and when the temperature reached 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C wheat starch product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The Phase B ingredients were then added in the listed order, followed by color addition and pH adjustment to 5.5-6.5.
Moisturizing Foundation
The following ingredients were used to prepare the foundation.
TABLE 9
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
TEA
Triethanolamine
Humectant
0.5
A
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
QS
A
Carbomer-940
Carbomer
Viscosity
0.20
A
Veegum
Magnesium Alumi-
Viscosity
0.30
num Silicate
B
Steric Acid
Triple Press Stearic
Emulsifier
1.00
Acid
B
Glucamate
PEG-20 Dimethyl
Conditioning
1.00
SSE-20
Glucose
Sesqusterate
B
Ritacol 1000
Sterate-20
Emulsifier
0.80
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
0.50
B
Lipocol SC-20
Ceteth-20
Emulsifier
0.50
B
Glucate SS
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
.50
B
Orgasol 2002 Ex
Nylon-12
Biner
3.50
C
Isopar-G
C10-11 Isoparaffin
Solvent
0.20
D
Cab-O-Sil
Silica Dimethyl
Bulking
1.00
Siliylate
D
Dow Corning 244
Cyclomethicone
Feel
15.00
E
Eusolex T-200
Titanium Dioxide
UV Protection
2.00
E
Iron Oxide
Iron Oxide Yellow
Color
0.40
Yellow
E
Iron Oxide Black
Iron Oxide Black
Color
0.40
E
Iron Oxide Red
Iron Oxide Red
Color
0.30
F
Tween-20
Polysorbate-20
Surfactant
1.00
F
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
2.00
Protein
F
Jojoba Amino
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
2.00
Acid
Amino Acid
G
Skin Flow-C ™
Modified Wheat
Silky Feel
2.00
Starch
H
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
I
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The ingredients of Phase A were heated to 75° C., and the ingredients of Phase E were passed through a colloid mill with some propylene glycol and recirculation until the pigments were evenly dispersed. The colloid mill was rinsed with the Phase C ingredient and mixed using a lightnin mixer with heating to 75° C. Phase B components were premixed and heated to 75° C., and added to the main batch. The Phase G ingredient was then sprinkled into the main batch premix Phase D with heating to 65° C. At 40° C., the ingredients of Phase F were added to the main batch together with preservative and fragrance.
Gentle Conditioning Agent
The following ingredients were used to prepare the conditioning agent.
TABLE 10
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Aqua Pro II ™ QWt
Hydroxypropyl-
Conditioning
2.00
trimonium Hydro-
lyzed Wheat Protein
A
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.50
A
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.00
(Lipo)
A
Lipocol C-20
Ceteth-20
Emulsifier
2.50
A
Beeswax White
Beeswax
Emulsifier
0.25
A
Dimethicone
Dow Corning 200
Feel
1.00
Fluid
A
Emulsifying Wax
Stearyl Alcohol/
Emulsifier
1.50
Ceterareth-20
B
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
3.00
Amino Acid
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
3.00
Protein
B
Chamomile Extract
Chamomile Extract
Soothing
0.05
B
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Vera Extract
Healing
0.08
B
Calendula Extract
Calendula Extract
Healing
0.03
B
Licorice Extract
Licorice Extract
Astringent
0.08
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
Distilled water added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients of Phase A in the order listed, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. The mixture was then cooled to 33° C., and the Phase B and C ingredients were added. The pH was adjusted to 3.0 with 25% citric acid, and fragrance and preservative were added.
Moisturizing Baby Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the baby cream.
TABLE 11
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Glycerin
Glycerin USP
Humectant
2.50
B
Lipocol S
Stearic Acid
Emulsifier
3.00
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.50
B
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Sterate
Emulsifier
2.50
B
Dow Corning 200
Dimethicone
Film Former
1.00
Fluid
B
Aqua Pro ™ II WGO
Wheat Germ Oil
Anti-Oxidant
0.50
C
Skin-Flow-C ™
Modified Wheat
Silky Feel/
6.50
Starch
Thickener
D
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed
Moisturizer/
5.00
Jojoba Protein
Anti-Wrinkle
F
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed
Moisturizer/
5.00
Jojoba Amino
Anti-Wrinkle
Acid
H
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
Distilled water was metered into a primary tank and the glycerine was added with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients with good agitation. When the temperature reached 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was shifted into the batch, making sure there were no lumps or powder. The Phase D ingredients were added, and at 35° C., the preservative was added with pH adjustment to 3.5-4.5.
Anti-Wrinkle Cream
The following ingredients were used to prepare the anti-wrinkle cream.
TABLE 12
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
QS
A
Glycerin
Glycerin USP
Humectant
1.0
A
Milk Protein
Completech MBAC-
Skin Feel
0.50
DS
B
Stepan DGS SE
Triple Press Stearic
Emulsifier
3.00
Acid
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipo GMS-450
Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier
1.75
B
Promulgin D
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
1.00
Ceteareth-20
B
Coco Butter
Coco Butter
Emollient
0.50
B
Lipo IPP
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
1.50
B
Lipo IPM
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
1.50
B
Crystisik NF 90
Mineral Oil
Emollient
0.50
C
Skin-Flow-C ™
Wheat Starch Modi-
Silky Feel
6.00
fied
F
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
5.00
Protein
F
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
5.00
Amino Acid
H
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water was added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients of Phase A, with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B was added to Phase A at 75° C. with good agitation. At 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining. When the temperature reached 35° C., the jojoba amino acid and hydrolyzed jojoba protein were added, together with the preservative.
Hair Styling Gel
The following ingredients were used to prepare the hair styling gel.
TABLE 13
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Deionized Water
Aqua
QS
A
Luviskol K30
PVPethanolamine
Fixative
1.80
A
TEA (25%)
Triethanolamine
pH Adjuster
QS
A
Carbomer-940
Carbopol
Thickener
1.00
A
Glucame-E20
Methyl Gluceth-20
Film Former
0.50
A
Versene NA2
Disodium EDTA
Chelation
0.50
B
Tween-20
Polysorbate-20
Cleansing
1.50
B
Uvasorb S5
Benzophenone-4
UV Protection
0.04
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
3.00
Protein
C
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
C
Fragrance
QS
Fragrance
QS
The Carbomer was added in 25% water followed by mixing in of Phase A ingredients in order. Next, the Phase B ingredients were added with good agitation, followed by addition of preservative and fragrance. The pH of the product was 5.5.
Professional Relaxer
The following ingredients were used to prepare the professional relaxer.
TABLE 14
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Glycerin
Glycerin USP
Humectant
6.00
A
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative/
5.00
Protein
Moisturizer
B
Tween-60
Polysorbate-60
Cleanser
12.00
B
Crystosol NF 90
Mineral Oil
Emollient
14.00
B
Emery 1650
Lanoline
Emollient
1.00
B
Amerchol C
Petrolatum
Emollient
10.00
B
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
3.00
C
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Hydroxide
pH Adjuster
QS
(25%)
The Phase A ingredients and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75° C. and mixed with good agitation. The Phase C ingredient was then add at 50-55° C. The product had a pH of 11.75-12.5.
Super Hair Reparative
The following ingredients were used to prepare the super hair reparative
TABLE 15
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Distilled Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
B
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
5.00
Protein
B
Aqua Pro ™ II
Hydroxypropyl
Conditioning
3.00
QWs
Steryldimonium
B
Jojoba Amino
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Reparative
1.00
Acid
Amino Acid
C
Salcare SC-96
Polyquaternium-37 and
Emulsifier
4.50
Propylene
Glycol Dicapry-
late/Dicaprate and
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
D
Tween-20
Polysorbate-20
Cleanser
1.0
D
Fragrance
Fragrance
Fragrance
0.20
E
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The distilled water was metered into a tank, followed by the addition of the Phase B ingredients with good agitation. The Phase C ingredient was then added followed by the ingredients of Phase D and E. The pH of the product was adjusted to 3.5-4.5 with 25% citric acid.
Face Mask
The following ingredients were used to prepare the face mask.
TABLE 16
Phase
Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
Amount
A
Deionized Water
Distilled Water
Aqua
Adjust
A
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
1.50
B
Lipocol GMS-450
Glyceryl Sterate
Emulsifier
2.00
B
Lipowax G
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.50
B
Lipocol C
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsifier
2.00
C
Skin-Flow-C ™
Wheat Starch
Skin Feel
2.00
Modified
D
Kaoline
Kaoline Colloidal
Firming
10.00
NF
D
Bentonite
Bentonite 670
Firming
8.00
E
Aqua Pro II ™ CO
Colloidal Oat
Anti-Wrinkle
5.00
E
Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
3.00
Protein
E
Jojoba Amino Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Anti-Wrinkle
3.00
Amino Acid
F
Preservative
QS
Antibacterial
QS
The Phase A and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75° C., and Phase B was added to Phase A with mixing. When the mixture reached 65° C., the Phase C ingredient was added with good mixing. Thereafter, the Phase D ingredients were added and the mixture was cooled to 35° C., whereupon the Phase E ingredients were added along with the preservative.
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