(en)The present invention relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), and/or one or more of its salts (i.e., γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form) and/or γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, wherein said moisturizer is used in cosmetic products or personal care products.

1.ApplicationNumber: US-12210805-A
1.PublishNumber: US-2006153785-A1
2.Date Publish: 20060713
3.Inventor: HO GUAN-HUEI
YANG TOU-HSIUNG
YANG JENG

4.Inventor Harmonized: HO GUAN-HUEI(CA)
YANG TOU-HSIUNG(TW)
YANG JENG(TW)

5.Country: US
6.Claims:
(en)The present invention relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), and/or one or more of its salts (i.e., γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form) and/or γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, wherein said moisturizer is used in cosmetic products or personal care products.

7.Description:
(en)TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, Mg ++ form and/or γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, and/or cross-linked γ-polyglutamate hydrogels (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form and/or γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form), wherein said moisturizer is used in cosmetic or personal care products to provide desired functionalities including high moisturization and water retention, improved wet-ability and low TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss), soft and tender feel, smooth and dryness, long lasting effectiveness, enhancing skin elasticity, good biocompatibility and enhancing health condition of the skin.
TECHNICAL BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART
Proper moisturization and nutrition are vital to the health and beauty of human skin and hair. Over dryness caused by low humidity is often detrimental to the skin and hair conditions. In winter, low temperature and dry air especially cause the dryness of the skin and hair, deteriorating the skin health conditions and even hardening or damaging the epidermis and electrifying the hair. To prevent the dryness of the skin, hair, and nail, cosmetic products such as skin essence, hand and body lotions, bath soaps, skin and body creams, hair gels, hair shampoos and mousse, and many other personal care products often contain certain moisturizers to provide the necessary moisturizing conditions to the skin and hair, and also to protect and beautify the skin and hair.
There are many kinds of organic moisturizers being used in a variety of cosmetic and toiletry products on the market. But the water absorption capacity, safety requirement of the moisturizers and the long stability concerns largely limit the kinds of moisturizers used in practical applications. A good moisturizer must possess high water retention capacity and also be capable of decreasing water loss through evaporation from the skin and hair. Traditional moisturizers being used in the cosmetics industry include glycerin, di-glycerol, sorbitol, sodium lactate, propylene glycol, and amino acid. Among them, sodium lactate has better water retention capacity, but is difficult to be emulsified in the formulation of the end products, therefore is only found limited applications and its usage level is low. The polyols have better moisturizing effect but have little effectiveness in the cosmetic products. Hyaluronic acid, collagen and squalane possess good water retention capacity, but they are less effective in reducing water evaporation from the surface of skin, and become sticky on the skin surface. Besides those above-mentioned moisturizers, elastin, glucosamine, polyaspartic acid (see JP 61-033107), placenta, chondroitin, aloe vera extract, and amino acid esters (see JP 10-251402) are also being used as moisturizing ingredients in the cosmetic and personal care formulations. The search for better and improved moisturizer is continued worldwide.
The polyols such as 1,3-butyl glycol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol possess certain recognized moisturization capacity, inhibit the growth of some microbes, improve the miscibility and viscosity, and provide some stability to other ingredients used in the cosmetic and personal care products, including tonic essence, skin cream, skin and body lotion, jelly, hair shampoo, conditioners, anti-drying treatments, hair tonic, bath and moisturizing creams etc. Despite those benefits from the polyols, the skin-care and hair-care cosmetic products containing the above-mentioned polyols always leave a not-so-good feeling to the skin, or slightly dry feeling to the hair, and make consumer feel the results are not better than those cosmetic products containing no polyols. More often, those rinse and cleansing cosmetics such as skin lotions, face creams, and hair setting, always leave residual polyols in the hair or on the skin, and make the user sometimes feel bad, decreasing their desire to continue to use.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) has relatively good water absorption and retention capability. HA is a natural biopolymer, non-toxic and fully biocompatible with human body, and is being used in most high quality cosmetic products for its effectiveness in preventing dryness of skin and hair. The disadvantage of using hyaluronic acid is its high price and limited availability. Despite its excellent moisturization functionality in protecting skin from over drying condition, the extremely high price of HA will result in a higher cost of the cosmetic formulation of the end products. Recent BSE virus protein-prion scare and Asian avian fluenza spreading have triggered serious concern about the safety of HA. Though, squalane has the advantage of moistening skin surface by preventing water from being evaporated from skin surface, its oily naturemakes the user feel greasy on skin. The commercial collagens are extracted from animal sources, implicating a high risk of contaminating BSE protein prion and possibility of infection with wide spread avian fluenza virus or impurity.
CONTENT OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, and/or γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form and/or γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, which provides excellent moisturizing effect on skin and hair and adds health values to cosmetic or personal care products.


DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 shows the chemical structure of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) (A), γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, and γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form (B), and γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ 0 form and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form (C). M(I)=K + , Na + , or NH 4 + M(II)=Ca ++ or Mg ++
FIG. 2 shows 400 MHz 1 H-NMR spectra of γ-polyglutamate in Na + form (A), γ-polyglutamate in K + form (B), and γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form (C) in D 2 O at neutral pH and temperature of 30° C. Chemical shift was measured in ppm units from the internal standard. X indicates impurity peak.
FIG. 3 shows 13 C-NMR spectra of γ-polyglutamate in K + form (A), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form (B), γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form (C), and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form (D) in D 2 O at neutral pH and temperature of 30° C. Chemical shift was measured in ppm units from the internal reference.
FIG. 4 shows infrared (FT-IR) absorption spectra of γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form (C) and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form (D) in KBr pellet.


DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The inventors, after thorough investigation, have come up with an excellent moisturizer by using of biopolymers of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts (i.e., γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form), which are all natural, biodegradable, non-toxic, and fully biocompatible. The typical chemical structures of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts are shown in FIG. 1 , and the typical 1 H-NMR, 13 C-NMR, and FT-IR are shown in FIGS. 2, 3 , and 4 , respectively. Table 1 shows the summarized data of chemical shifts of 1 H-NMR, 13 C-NMR, FT-IR absorption peaks, and the thermal analysis. The products containing the above biopolymers possess excellent water absorption capacity and long-lasting good water retention, form soft tender smooth thin film with matrix structure for controlled release function for water and other nutrients in the water, improve the elasticity of the skin, reduce the wrinkles by anti-radical activity in aging process, beautify and improve the health conditions of skin by increasing the natural moisturing factors (NMF) (see JP 2002-145723) in the stratum corneum, and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from the epidermis.
TABLE 1 ITEM H Na + K + NH 4 + Ca ++ Mg ++ a. 1 H-NMR(400 MHz, D 2 O, 30° C.) Chemical shift in ppm: α CH 3.98 4.00 3.68 4.18 4.08 β CH 2 1.98, 1.80 1.99, 1.80 1.68, 1.48 2.16, 1.93 2.05, γ CH 2 2.19 2.19 1.93 2.38 1.88 2.31 b. 13 C-NMR(67.9 MHz, D 2 O, 30° C.) Chemical shift in ppm; α CH 56.43 62.21 62.21 62.10 β CH 2 31.61 35.16 36.17 35.11 γ CH 2 34.01 39.74 39.68 39.60 CO 182.21 182.11 182.16 182.12 COO − 182.69 185.46 185.82 185.16 a. FT-IR absorption (KBr), cm −1 C═O, Stretch 1739 Amid I, N—H bending 1643 1643 1622 1654 Amide II, stretch 1585 C═O, symmetric stretch 1454 1402 1395 1412 1411 C—N, stretch 1162 1131 1139 1116 1089 N—H, oop bending 698 707 685 669 616 O—H, stretch 3449 3436 3443 3415 3402 b. Thermal analysis: Hydrated water 0 10% 42% 20% 40% Dehydration temperature, ° C. 109. 139. 110 122 T m , ° C. 206 160 193, 238 219 160. T d , ° C. 209.8 340 341 223 335.7 331.8

Particularly, γ-polyglutamic acid and its salts possess excellent water binding properties and moisture retention capacity, and their biochemical and biological functionalities are being explored for applications in cosmetic products and personal care products. γ-Polyglutamic acid and its salts were recently found to stimulate the growth of fibroblast cells, and show long-lasting moisture retention and good whitening results in skin care applications. The objectives in this invention are to provide an economical and very effective moisturizer formulation system for use in cosmetic products and personal care products which possess excellent moisturizing capability, provide tender and smooth soft feeling, and improve the health of the skin.
In one embodiment, the subject invention relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), its salts (i.e., γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ 0 form, and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form), or a mixture thereof, wherein said moisturizer is used in a cosmetic or personal care product.
The subject invention also relates to a moisturizer comprising a γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, wherein said γ-polyglutamate hydrogel is prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na+ form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, or a mixture thereof cross-linked with diglycerol polyglycidyl ether, polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polysorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or a mixture thereof, and wherein said moisturizer is used in a cosmetic or personal care product,.
The subject invention further relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + 0 form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, or a mixture thereof and a γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, wherein said γ-polyglutamate hydrogel is prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, or a mixture thereof cross-linked with diglycerol polyglycidyl ether, polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polysorbitol polyglycidyl ether, and polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or a mixture thereof, and wherein said moisturizer is used in a cosmetic or personal care product.
In another embodiment, the subject invention relates to a moisturizer comprising a γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, wherein said moisturizer is used in a cosmetic or personal care product. Said γ-polyglutamate hydrogel is prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, or a mixture thereof cross-linked by irradiation with gamma ray or electron beams.
The subject invention further relates to a moisturizer comprising γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + 0 form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, or a mixture thereof and a γ-polyglutamate hydrogel, wherein said γ-polyglutamate hydrogel is prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, or a mixture thereof cross-linked by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams, and wherein said moisturizer is used in a cosmetic and personal care product.
According to the subject invention, the γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form independently have a low molecular weight ranging from 100,000 to 500,000 or a high molecular weight ranging from 10 6 to 3×10 6 . The cross-linked γ-polyglutamate hydrogel has a molecular weight ranging from 15×10 6 to 200×10 6 . The γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form), γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form utilized in the subject invention can be produced from submerged fermentation process using L-glutamic acid and glucose as main nutrients, or the extracts from natto the solid state fermented soybeans. Furthermore, the cross-linked γ-polyglutamate hydrogel can be produced from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form, and γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, or a mixture thereof cross-linked either by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams, or with poly-functional chemical cross-linking agents such as diglycerol polyglycidyl ether, polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polysorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or a mixture thereof.
Generally, the amount of a moisturizer is from 0.005 wt. % to 5 wt. % of the cosmetic and personal care product. Moreover, the cosmetic and personal care product comprises, but not limited to, a hand-care, face-care, body-care, foot-care, head-care, and hair-care, nail-care, or mouth-care product.
EXPERIMENTAL METHODS OF THE INVENTION
Large quantity of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts (i.e., γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, and γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form) can be produced in a submerged fermentation process with Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus subtilis var. natto (see JP 01-174397), or Bacillus licheniformis (see JP 11-343339) by using L-glutamic acid and glucose as main feed stocks. The microbial culture media contain carbon source, nitrogen source, inorganic minerals, and other nutrients in a proper quantity. Usually, L-glutamic acid is used at a concentration ranging from 3 to 12%, glucose at a concentration of 5-12%, citric acid at a concentration of 0.2 to 2% are used as partial carbon source; peptone and ammonium sulfate or urea are used as nitrogen sources; yeast extract is used as nutrient source; Mn ++ , Mg ++ and NaCl are used as mineral sources. Under proper aeration and agitation, the culture temperature is maintained at 30 to 40° C., and pH is maintained at 6-7.5 by using urea solution or sodium hydroxide solution; the culture time is normally a period of 48 to 84 hours. γ-Polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA) and its salts, (i.e., γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, γ-polyglutamate in K + form, γ-polyglutamate in NH 4 + form, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, and γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form) are accumulated extracellularly.
γ-Polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its saltsare normally extracted from the fermentation broth by a series of procedures including, ultra-centrifugation, or pressurized filtration to separate cells, then adding 3-4 times of ethanol to precipitate out γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts,. The precipitates are redissolved in water, and another portion of ethanol is used to precipitate out γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts. The dissolution-precipitaion steps are repeated several times in order to recover pure γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts.
γ-Polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts are normally dissolved in a proper solvent such as water, ethanol or methanol and pH is adjusted to 5.0 to 7.5. The solution is then transferred to a proper radiation-permeable glass or plastic containers and evacuated, and irradiated with a gamma rays or electron beams at a total radiation dosage ranging from of 0.5 to 5.0. Mrad (see JP 11-343339, JP 2001-354542, and JP 06-322358), depending on the required quality of hydrogels. The commonly used gamma ray irradiation source is Cobalt 60 at an irradiation rate of 0.1 to 0.15 Mrad/Hr or an electron beam with a similar capacity. The hydrogels formed are then freeze-dried to produce dried cross-linked γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts, which possess super water absorption capacity, are insoluble, and form colorless, transparent and biodegradable hydrogels when fully swell in water.
γ-Polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its saltsare normally dissolved in a proper solvent such as water, ethanol or methanol and pH is adjusted to 5.0 to 7.5. the properly selected multiple functional chemical cross-linking agents such as diglycerol polyglycidyl ether, polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polysorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or a mixture thereof are added to the solution under constantly stirring, at a dose rate ranging from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts, depending on the type of cross-linking agents and the quality of hydrogels required. The gelling reaction is normally completed within 1 to 4 hours at a reaction temperature from 50 to 120° C. depending on the equipment and conditions used. The hydrogels formed are then freeze-dried to produce dried cross-linked γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts, γ-polyglutamate hydrogels, which possess super water absorption capacity, areinsoluble, and form colorless, transparent and biodegradable hydrogels when fully swell in water.
The cross-linked hydrogels of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA) and its salts thus produced either by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams, or with poly-functional chemical cross-linking agents possess super water absorption and water retention capacity, form a tender, smooth, gentle soft film on skin or hair, and are especially suitable for use in cosmetic and personal care products for skin care and hair care, including hand-care, face-care, body-care, foot-care, head-care, and hair-care, nail-care, mouth-care. The amounts of the cross-linked hydrogels prepared from γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts for use in cosmetic and personal care products range from 0.005 to 5 wt. % in the final products, depending on the product quality required.
Small and middle molecular weight γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA) and its salts, with molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 900,000 can be produced by controlled acidic-hydrolysis at a specific selected reaction conditions of pH, temperature, reaction time and concentration of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form). The pH can be from pH 1.5 to 5.5 with proper acidulant such as HCl, H 2 SO 4 , or other organic acids, the hydrolysis temperature can be controlled in the range from 50 to 110° C., the reaction time from 0.5 to 5 hours, and the concentration of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) with molecular weight of 1×10 6 or higher can be any concentration (as required) (see JP 06-322358, Characteristic Properties of N-Carboxybutyl Chitosan. Carbohydr. Polym. 11:307-320, 1989, Muzzarelli, R. A. A. et al., and Appraisel of the Safety of Chemicals in Food, Drugs and Cosmetics. Pharmacolo. 93:377-392, 1948, Draize, F. et al.). After the reaction is completed, further purification with dialysis or membrane filtration and drying are necessary to produce high purity small and middle molecular weight γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA, H form) and its salts, of choice. The acid-hydrolysis rate is faster at lower pH, higher temperature, and higher concentration of γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA). The γ-polyglutamate salts can be produced by reaction of selected γ-polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA) with basic hydroxide solution or oxide of the metal ions of Na + , K + , NH 4 + , Ca ++ or Mg ++ of choice, and pH adjusted to desired condition from 5.0 to 7.2 as required.
EXPERIMENTAL EXAMPLE
In order to further explain this invention in detail, experimental examples are presented in the following to show how this invention can be utilized to achieve the best moisturizing effect and adding health values to the cosmetic and personal care products. But the scope of this invention is not limited by these experimental examples.
Experimental Example 1
In this experimental example, the standard skin vital moisture creams with the following formulation were prepared to demonstrate the effectiveness of water retention by γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form). Propylene glycol was used as control for comparison, hyaluronic acid (HA) was used as relative reference, the small molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form with 200,000 to 400,000 daltons (designated as LM), high molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form with 1.15×10 6 to 1.35×10 6 daltons (designated as HM), and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) with molecular weight from 15×10 6 to 100×10 6 or higher (cross-linked with polyglycerol polyglicidyl ether) were used as super moisturizers. The species and proprotions of the ingredient contained in the exemplified cream formulations are listed in Table 2.
TABLE 2 Skin vital moisture cream formulation. PERCENTAGE, % INGREDIENT CONTROL A B C D Stearic Acid 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Stearyl Alcohol 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Wichenol 158 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 KOH 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Propylene Glycol 5.0 — — — — γ-Polyglutamate in — 0.1 — — — Mg ++ form HM γ-Polyglutamate in — — 0.1 — — Mg ++ form LM γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel — — — 0.1 — (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) 4%1CL Hyaluronic acid (HA) — — — — 0.1 GMS 1330 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Methylparaben 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 De-ionized Water 77.2 82.1 82.1 82.1 82.1 Vitamin E 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Note: The hydrogel 4% 1CL is the sample code of hydrogel used in the experiment. The hydrogel was made with 4% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form and 1% polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether

Experimental Example 2
The cosmetic products from experimental example 1 were evaluated for the effectiveness of water retention on skin. A sample of 0.2 g from each of the 5 products was evenly spread over an area of about 25 cm 2 on the inside skin surface of a test panelist's arm. A group of 10 panenlists participated in this test. The water retention on the skin surface was measured at 23° C. under an environment of relative humidity of 60%, with a probe of Skin Analysis SHP88 made by Courage + Khazaka Electronic Gmbh, Germany. The effectiveness of water retention was expressed in terms of capacitance increase ratio (%), as shown in Table 3. The results show a much better long lasting water retention quality for products containing γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate inNa + form).
TABLE 3 The change of moisture retention over time after applying vital moisture creams, was expressed in terms of capacitance increase ratio, %, measured at 22° C. and RH 65%. Capacitance Increase Ratio, % Time, min. Moisturizer used 0 5 10 20 40 80 120 5% Propylene Glycol as 0 105 57 51 40 38 36 control 0.1% Hyaluronic acid (HA) 0 121 75 53 42 41 40 0.1% γ-Polyglutamate 0 180 118 79 54 48 45 in Mg ++ form HM 0.1% γ-Polyglutamate 0 138 98 70 46 45 43 in Mg ++ form LM 0.1% γ-Polyglutamate 0 128 78 56 44 43 42 Hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) 4% 1CL

Experimental Example 3
The cosmetic products from experimental example 1 were also evaluated for the effectiveness of improving the elasticity of skin. A sample of 0.25 g from each of the 5 products was evenly spread over an area of 25 cm 2 on the outside skin surface of a test panelist's arm, once a day and continuously for a period of 1 month. 10 panelists participated in the test. The apparent skin elasticity was measured at 23° C. and under relative humidity (RH) of 60%, with a probe of Cutometer SEM 575 (Courage + Khaazaka Electronic Gmbh, German), once per week and expressed in terms of the apparent elasticity index R2 value. The higher the apparent elasticity index R2 value, the better the skin elasticity. The results are shown in Table 4. The results show that the cosmetic formulations containing γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form (HM), γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form (LM), and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) 4% 1CL are much better than those containing hyaluronic acid (HA) or propylene glycol in improving skin elasticity. The γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) shows the best results in improving the skin elasticity.
TABLE 4 The changes in skin elasticity over time after applying vital moisture cream. The apparent elasticity index was expressed in R2 value, and the relative apparent elasticity was expressed in R2/(R2) o , %. Relative Apparent Elasticity, R2/(R2) o , % Time, week Moisturizer used (R2) o 0 1 2 3 4 5% Propylene glycol (control) 0.760 100 103.3 104.5 104.7 104.6 0.1% Hyaluronic acid (HA) 0.800 100 103.5 105.6 105.5 105.5 0.1% γ-Polyglutamate in Mg ++ form HM 0.825 100 105.7 106.1 106.7 106.7 0.1% γ-Polyglutamate in Mg ++ form LM 0.850 100 103.3 105.4 105.5 105.6 0.1% γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel (prepared 0.780 100 103.5 107.7 110.5 110.3 from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) 4% 1CL

Experimental Example 4
In this experimental example, a standard facial moisture mask formulation with the following formulations were prepared to demonstrate the effectiveness of water retention by γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form). The small molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Ca + form with 200,000 to 400,000 daltons (designated as LM), high molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form with 1.15×10 6 to 1.35×10 6 daltons (designated as HM), and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) with molecular weight from 15×10 6 to 100×10 6 or higher (cross-linked with gamma ray irradiation) were used as super moisturizers. The species and proportions of the ingredients contained in the exemplified facial moisture mask formulation are listed in Table 5.
TABLE 5 Facial Moisture Mask Formulation PERCENTAGE, % INGREDIENT CONTROL A B C D Polyethylene Glycol 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 Methylcellulose 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1,3-Butyl Glycol 5.0 — — — — Ethanol 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 Methylparaben 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Sodium Citrate q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. γ-Polyglutamate in Ca ++ form HM — 0.15 γ-Polyglutamate in Ca ++ from LM — 0.15 γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel (prepared — 0.15 from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) 2% 2M γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel (prepared — 0.15 from γ-polyglutamate in Na + from) 6% 1M POE Oleyl Alcohol Ether 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 De-ionized Water 65.1 69.9 69.9 69.9 69.9 Note: The Hydrogel 2% 2M and Hydrogel 6% 1M are the sample codes of hydrogel used in the experiment. Hydrogel 2% 2M represents the hydrogel was made of 2% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form and irradiated with γ-ray at a dosage of 2 Mrad, and Hydrogel 6% 1M was made of 6% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form and irradiated with γ-ray at a dosage of 1 Mrad.

Experimental Example 5
The samples of 0.2 grams from experimental example 4 were taken and evenly spread over an area of 25 cm 2 on the outside skin surface of the arm of a test panelist, and the film formation time was closely observed and recorded (see Characteristic Properties of N-Carboxybutyl Chitosan. Carbohydr. Polym. 11:307-320, 1989, Muzzarelli, R. A. A. et al.) at 23° C. under an environment of relative humidity (RH) of 65%. A group of 10 panelists participated in this test. In a separate experiment, the mask film formed after 15 minutes was peeled off, then the pH value of the skin was measured at 23° C. under an environment of relative humidity of 65% with a probe of the Skin Analysis SHP88 of Courage + Khazaka Electronic Gmbh, Germany. The moisture retention of the skin was immediately measured at 23° C. under an environment of relative humidity of 65% with a probe of the Skin Analysis SHP88, and expressed in unit of capacitance increase ratio, %.
The moisture mask samples of 25 cm 2 were taken from experimental example 4 and patched evenly on the outside surface of the upper arm skin of a test panelist. A group of 10 panelists participated in this test. After 24 hours, then the mask samples were removed and the skin was observed carefully for any degree of irritation, and the results were recorded according to Draize method (see Appraisel of the Safety of Chemicals in Food, Drugs and Cosmetics. Pharmacolo. 93:377-392,1948, Draize, F. et al.). The results are shown in Table 6.
TABLE 6 The film formation time, capacity increase ratio (%), the pH value of the skin, and the Draize score after applying facial moisture masks γ-polyglutamate 1,3-BG γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form Hydrogel Hydrogel Controll in Ca ++ form HM LM 2% 2M 6% 1M Film Formation Time, min. 13.2 14.2 13.5 12.0 14.6 Capacitance Increase 73.2 89.6 83.0 94.7 83.9 Ratio, % pH value, before using 5.8 6.1 6.0 6.0 6.0 mask pH value, after using 6.0 6.3 6.5 6.4 6.5 mask Draize Score 0 0 0 0 0 Note: Hydrogel 2% 2M and Hydrogel 6% 1M are the sample codes of hydrogels used in this experiment.

Table 6 shows that the skin water retention as expressed by the capacitance increase ratio is much better with facial moisture mask containing γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form(HM), 89.6%, γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form (LM), 83.0%, and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + from) (2%2M), 94.7%, and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + from) (6%1M), 83.9% than with the control, 73.2%. While the skin pH value is maintained within the weak acid range, below pH 6.5, as compared to pH 6.0 for the control, the Draize score of “zero” suggests that γ-polyglutamate in Ca ++ form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogels (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Na + form) do not cause any rash or irritation to the skin.
Experimental Example 6
In this experimental example, the standard skin vital moisture creams with the following formulations were prepared to demonstrate the effectiveness of water retention by γ-polyglutamate in K + form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in K + form). Glycerol was used as control for comparison, high molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in K + form with 1.15×10 6 to 1.45×10 6 daltons (designated as HM), and γ-polyglutamate hydrogels (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in K + form) with molecular weight from 15×10 6 to 100×10 6 or higher (cross-linked with gamma ray irradiation) were used as super moisturizers. The species and proportions of the ingredients contained in the exemplified cream formulation are listed in Table 7.
TABLE 7 Skin moisture cream formulation. PERCENTAGE, % INGREDIENT CONTROL A B C Glyceryl Stearate 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Ethylhexyl Stearate 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 Ceteareth-25 2.0 2.5 2.5 2.5 Glycerol 5.0 — — — γ-Polyglutamate in K + from HM — 0.2 — — γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel — — 0.2 — (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in K + form) 6% 1M Natural Betaine — — — 2.0 Na-Benzoate, Methylparaben 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 De-ionized Water 69.5 74.3 74.3 72.5 Vitamin E 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Note: The Hydrogel, 6% 1M is the sample code of hydrogel used in the experiment.

Experimental Example 7
The cosmetic products from experimental example 6 were evaluated for the effectiveness of skin moisturization. A group of 5 test panelists participated in this experiment. The panelists were first put in a room with a temperature at 22° C. and relative humidity (RH) 60% for 15 minutes. A probe of the corneometer HM99 of Courage + Khazaka Electronic Gmbh, Germany was used to measure the skin moisture of the outside skin surface of the panelist's arm to determine the base line as (CU1). A sample of 0.2 g from the formulation of experimental example 6 was evenly spread over an area of 25 cm 2 of the skin surface for 2 minutes before the excess formulation sample was removed. After 2 hours the skin moisture was measured again and recorded as (CU2). Before the measurement the panelists were placed in a room with temperature at 22° C. and RH 60% for 15 minutes. The atteration of skin moisture is then calculated as ΔCU=CU2-CU1. The results of increase in skin moisture are shown in Table 8.
TABLE 8 Relative Increase in Skin Moisture Increase in Skin Moisture Relative New Film Moisturizer used ΔCU ΔCU % Property 5% Glycerol 7.5 100 No change 0.2% γ-Polyglutamate 11.0 147 Smooth feel in K + form HM 0.2% γ-Polyglutamate 13.5 180 Soft, tender,, Hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate slippery feel in K + form) 6% 1M 2% Natural Betaine 12.3 164 No change Note: The Hydrogel 6% 1M is the sample code of hydrogel, which was made of 6% γ-polyglutamate in K + form and irradiated with γ-ray at a dosage of 1 Mrad.

Table 8 shows that γ-polyglutamate in K + form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in K + form) provide better skin moisture increase than the conventional moisturizers even at a use level of more than 10 time less, with the Relative Increase in Skin Moisture, ΔCU: 147% for 0.2% γ-polyglutamate in K + form, 180% for 0.2% γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in K + form), as compared to 100% for 5% Glycerol, and 164% for 2% Natural Betaine. γ-Polyglutamate in K + form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in K + form) also form a new matrix film on the outside of skin surface to provide a comfortable, soft, tender, and smooth quality, which are desirable to most users.

Experimental Example 8
In this experiment, the standard skin vital moisture creams with the following formulations were prepared to demonstrate the effectiveness of water retention by γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogels (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form). Glycerol was used as control for comparison, high molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form with 1.15×10 6 to 1.45×10 6 daltons (designated as HM), and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form) with molecular weight from 15×10 6 to 100×10 6 or higher (cross-linked with glycerol-based cross-linking agent) were used as super moisturizers. The species and proportions of the ingredients contained in the exemplified cream formulation are listed in Table 9.
TABLE 9 Skin moisture cream formulation. Ingredient Control, % A, % B, % Glyceryl Stearate 4.0 4.0 4.0 Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 2.0 2.0 Ethylhexyl Stearate 8.5 8.5 8.5 Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 8.5 8.5 8.5 Ceteareth-25 2.0 2.0 2.0 Glycerol 6.5 — — γ-Polyglutamate in Mg ++ form HM — 0.5 — γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel (prepared from — — 0.5 γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ from) 6% 1M Na-Benzoate, Methylparaben 0.4 0.4 0.4 De-ionized Water 68..0 74.0 74.0 Vitamin E 0.1 0.1 0.1 Note: The Hydrogel 6% 1M is the sample code of hydrogel, which was made of 6% γ-Polyglutamate in Mg ++ form and irradiated with γ-ray at a dosage of 1 Mrad.

Experimental Example 9
The cosmetic products from experimental example 8 were evaluated for the effectiveness of reducing water evaporation loss and retention of moisture in skin. Pig skin was used for this experiment. The skin moisture was measured at 23° C. under an environment of relative humidity (RH) of 60% with a probe of corneometer HM99 of Courage + Khazaka Electronic Gmbh, Germany. A similar procedure in experimental example 7 followed. The results of Trans-Epidermal-Water-Loss (TEWL) and skin moisture retention are shown in Tables 10a and 10b.
TABLE 10a Test results with ex-vivo pig skin: skin moisture retention by corneometry. Difference Corneometry, % Time, hour With moisturizer used −1 0 1 2 4 6.5% Glycerol 100 48 . . . 32 20 17 0.5% γ-Polyglutamate in Mg ++ form HM 100 67 36 22 19 0.5% γ-Polyglutamate Hydrogel 100 84 55 34 26 (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form) 6% 1M

The skin moisture retention under the same climate conditions (23° C. and RH 60%) showed a leveling off about in 4 hours after application of the formulation. The cosmetic formulation containing 0.5% γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form) shows best skin moisture retention of 84% at hour 1 and 34% at hour 2, as compared to 36% at hour 1 and 22% at hour 2 for that containing 0.5 γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, and only 32% at hour 1 and 20% at hour 2 for that containing 6.5% glycerol.
TABLE 10b Test results with ex-vivo pig skin: Trans-Epidermal-Water-Loss(TEWL) Trans-Epidermal-Water-Loss (TEWL) Time, hour With moisturizer used −1 0 1 2 4 6.5% Glycerol 24.7 21.0. 19.5 19.0 17.5 0.5% γ-Polyglutamate in 24.0 19.5 18.5 17.5 17.0 Mg ++ form, HM 0.5% γ-Polyglutamate 19.0 15.0 13.0 12.5 12.5 Hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ from), 6% 1M

Obviously, the less TEWL the less water loss by evaporation of water through skin. The TEWL also shows a leveling off at 4 hours after application of the moisture formulation. The formulation containing 0.5% γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form) has the lowest TEWL value of 13.0 at hour 1 and 12.5 at hour 2, as compared to 19.5 at hour 1 and 17.5 at hour 2 for that containing 0.5% γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form, and 19.5 at hour 1 and 10.0 at hour 2 for that containing 6.5% glycerol. Apparently, γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form and γ-polyglutamate hydrogel (prepared from γ-polyglutamate in Mg ++ form) enhance the skin moisturization and reduce the TEWL, which means a better moisturizer and a better water barrier for the cosmetic and personal care products.
Experimental Example 10
In this set of in vitro cell culture experiments, a monolayer of cell line L-929 fibroblasts was grown to near confluency of about 2×10 5 cells in DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium) with 10% fetal bovine serum, in each well of a 24-well cell culture plate. The control was the monolayer cultured in 1 ml of DMEM. The sample containing 10 mg of small molecular weight γ-polyglutamatein Na + form with 200,000 to 350,000 daltons (designated as LM) in 1 ml of DMEM was used as test extract. Triplicate cultures were prepared. The cultures were incubated for 24 hours at 37° C. with 5% CO 2 . Then the monolayer was examined microscopically, trypsinized and the cell density was counted. The respective cell number within the monolayer are listed in Table 11.
TABLE 11 Cell Layer Density. Total number of cells within monolayer (×10 4 ) Sample # 1 # 2 # 3 Mean (n = 3) Control 3.9 ± 0.3 6.7 ± 0.3 4.6 ± 0.3 5.1 ± 1.5 Test Extract, 9.6 ± 0.4 7.7 ± 0.2 7.6 ± 0.6 8.3 ± 1.1 with 1% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, LM

The results in Table 11 shows that the small molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, LM, with 200,000 to 350,000 daltons (designated as LM) stimulated the growth of fibroblast cell, indicating that γ-polyglutamate in Na + form, LM helps the growth of fibroblast cells.
Experimental Example 11
Although the formation of black pigment melanin on skin is complicated, it is generally realized that tyrosine is oxidized to DOPA (Dihydroxy Phenyalanine) by the catalysis of tyrosinase from melansome of melanocyte. The DOPA is further oxidized and finally converted into colored melanin-protein complex. The small molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Na + form with 200,000 to 350,000 daltons (designated as LM) and high molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Na + form with 1.15×10 6 to 1.35×10 6 daltons (designated as HM) were used in this experiment to determine the effectiveness in inhibiting the tyrosinase activity.
a. Determination of total absorbency at wavelength of 475 nm: To a 25 ml sample test tube, add 0.9 ml of 0.1M phosphate buffer solution (pH 6.8), 1 ml of γ-polyglutamate (Na + form) sample and 1 ml of 0.25 mg/ml tyrosine solution and mix well, then incubate at 37° C. for 10 minutes. Add 0.1 ml of 8.55 unit/ml tyrosinase solution, mix well and re-incubate the mixture at 37° C. for another 25 minutes. Sample of the reaction solution is then taken for measuring the absorbency at 475 nm, and recorded as At. b. Determination of the blank absorbance of tyrosinase solutuion: Replace 0.1 ml of buffer solution with tyrosinase solution, and repeat the same procedure in item (a), and record the absorbency at 475 nm as A1. c. Replace 1 ml sample solution with buffer solution, and repeat the same procedure in item (a), and record the absorbance at 475 nm as Ab. d. Determination of total blank absorbance of test solution: Replace 1 ml sample solution with buffer solution, and 0.1 ml of tyrosinase solution with buffer solution, and repeat the procedure in item (a), and record the absorbency at 475 nm as Ao. e. Calculation of the inhibition of tyrosinase activity:
Inhibition ⁢ ⁢ of ⁢ ⁢ tyrosinase ⁢ ⁢ activity ⁡ ( % ) = ( Ab - Ao ) - At - A ⁢ ⁢ 1 ) ( Ab - Ao ) × 100 ⁢ %


The results on inhibition of tyrosinase activity (%) by γ-polyglutamate (Na + form) are summarized in Table 12.
TABLE 12 Whitening effectiveness of γ-polyglutamate in Na + form on inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Inhibition of Sample Tyrosinase Activity, % 0.5% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form HM 52.6 1.5% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form HM 65.1 1.0% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form LM 34.3 1.5% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form LM 48.6 1.0% Kojic Acid 100.0 1.0% Vitamin C 99.4

Table 12 shows that both γ-polyglutamate in Na + form HM and γ-polyglutamate in Na + form LM are relatively effective whitening agents for inhibiting the tyrosinase activity, with 0.5% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form HM inhibiting 52.6% and 1.0% γ-polyglutamate in Na + form LM inhibiting 34.3%, as compared to 100.0% for 1.0% Kojic Acid and 99.4% for 1.0% Vitamin C. The larger molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Na + form HM has better whitening effect than the smaller molecular weight γ-polyglutamate in Na + form LM.